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Finger Bored (Read 11897 times)

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Finger Bored
December 09, 2003, 01:39:07 pm
As my shoulder is going to be fucked until March I decided to lay out some cash for one of these


Can i get a re rewind to ask you strong motherfuckers in da house what exercises are gonna make me mutant.  I've read the training sample that comes with it but what else do I need to work on (apart from my footwork :oops: )

Cheers in advance.............................

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#1 Finger Bored
December 09, 2003, 01:40:30 pm
have you read this and this innit.

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#2 Finger Bored
December 09, 2003, 01:42:33 pm
Check the Metolius site out. Some good shit on there

Good lecture last night mate! Even won myself £60 voucher for Snow and Rock ;-) Though somehow Gresham ended up with it and i got the third place voucher. Me neds to have words with Gresham!

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#3 Finger Bored
December 09, 2003, 01:49:38 pm
Cheers Dave for the quick response, have looked at the Greshams site just wanted some quick tips to stardom.  Looks as if its just hard work and lots of deadhangs with fuck loads a weight added

How the fuck did you end up giving Gresham your money man?
Did he promise to give you a bit of personal training  :bang:
Know what I mean...................

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#4 Finger Bored
December 09, 2003, 01:59:42 pm
Quote from: "Dylan"
Cheers Dave for the quick response, have looked at the Greshams site just wanted some quick tips to stardom.


i'd say always remember to warm up really well, and take it easier for the first few weeks cuz yo body won't be used to it. also always hang with a slight bend in your arms, cuz then you avoid getting elbow shit - makes it a bit harder anall. also don't do long hangs, cuz if you can hang something for 30seconds its too easy, how often do you hang a hold for more than 6 seconds in real bouldering?

i've never got strong enough to do 1 arm hangs on fingerholds, at least not with some bend in the elbow. i've tended to do weighted ones, also had a timed system where i'd do 6 seconds hang on a 3/4" edge, 24 seconds rest, then 6 seconds on a 1/2" edge, 24 sec rest the start again - work up to doing this for 20 minutes and you'll be feelin it like a mouse. i found it good for simulating repeatedly trying moves/problems on projects in quick sucession like you do down the wall/crag.

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#5 Finger Bored
December 09, 2003, 02:09:00 pm
Quote
How the fuck did you end up giving Gresham your money man?
Did he promise to give you a bit of personal training  :bang:
Know what I mean...................


Envolopes got mixed up :roll:

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#6 Finger Bored
December 09, 2003, 03:55:09 pm
The only holds I can deadhang on one arm are the Jugs, the slopers and the 3 fingered pockets.  For some reason I can't hang the largest edge on one arm.  Its larger than the pocket so what the fooks going on there?  I haven't started to add weight as I'm just seeing what I can do without training.  I tend to hand the holds for 6-8 seconds and after that try with one arm or one hand worse than the other.  I have not tried to do any pull ups.  Are they any use? Or should I just keep campusing :lol:

dave

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#7 Finger Bored
December 09, 2003, 04:01:11 pm
dunno about pullups - at the end of the day finger are the link between you an tha rock - maybe arms are best trained on steep problems, bachar ladder etc. I'm sure it wont hurt to do some though. i'd be wark of dropping right down onto loced elbow adn then jerking back up cuz i hear this fucks you over.

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#8 Finger Bored
December 09, 2003, 08:17:04 pm
Quote from: "dave"
bachar ladder etc.

Yeah, beware the Bachar Ladder - screwed my elbows big time on these when they were all the rage years ago. Not saying don't do them, but be extra careful to not overdo it and warm up a *lot* before getting on.

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#9 Finger Bored
December 09, 2003, 08:46:48 pm
Fingers do seem to be key
I can pretty much alway do a one armer on a bar but would love to be able to do it on a campus rung, even if it is 2inchs thick.
Where my finger board is situated (above door) does not lend itself to pull ups or front levers as theres not enough space to swing a cat :roll:

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#10 Finger Bored
December 09, 2003, 09:55:43 pm
Apart from being a proper sicknote at the mo, the old bachar ladder pre font sorted me out good and proper, best trip ever I reckon. Although I just use a rigid ladder against the house, which is probably not cricket??
Means warming up is a doddle with my feet on, then yard :)

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#11 Finger Bored
December 10, 2003, 09:42:51 am
If used properly and with due care a Bachar Ladder is an excellent compliment to any training program. In the old days (when Bubs was under 35 :wink: ) it was thought that if you did loads on a Bachar you'd be awesome - this is not the case, remember quality rather than quantity is the key here  - good form is important, when you start to loose it you should move on to something else or risk injury.

Plus, strength all in the arms is no good for climbing, yes, you need some, but you'll benefit more from spending a day fumbling up a grit slab than you will by being able to lock off at your waist. Remember, Dave Graham can't lock off. Nuff said.

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#12 Finger Bored
December 10, 2003, 06:15:36 pm
David Graham also halfs his weight when he farts but I'm not going to start taking laxatives.
Clearly strong fingers will get you further than strong arms but alot of our genetic potential comes into play.  For instance my fingers are piss weak but I can pull a one armer when cold.  Still that V3 won't go  :oops:

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#13 Finger Bored
December 11, 2003, 11:32:24 am
i wouldn't do pull ups n front levers above a door anyway too awkward. if u can do a one-armer from cold i wouldn't worry too much about pull-ups n ladders. so u only call it trainin when u attach weight do u?  :) . this sounds in the same vein as johnny, strong steve and fred saying they don't train.  :lol:
all these suggested trainin routines r ok if u don't ave a life. personally i only train(sic), when in the mood, 2/3 times a week on my campus rung. i only have one. this i use for 1 - 3 finger hangs, counting to 15 in my head. my ego would claim 15 seconds but this is not the case. using weight is a good tool but i would just c how u went for 3 weeks. finger boards r notorious for injuries. this is bcoz people think theyre warm when they r not. the best thing i can say is don't do too much n don't listen to people who don't weigh anything.  :wink:
the best way to use boards at home is while doing something else ie. watching telly, writing on ukb. there is nothing more boring than doin deadhangs at home, unless of course ure as interesting as some of the other members of the climbing community who look forward to sessions of deadhangs.  :lol:

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#14 Finger Bored
December 11, 2003, 01:02:41 pm
Look at me the big training guru!!

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#15 Finger Bored
December 12, 2003, 09:37:23 pm
yes but not everybody knows that i'm actually shit and a pen name is a great place to hide!

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#16 Finger Bored
January 12, 2004, 06:41:27 pm
Check out this masterpiece  ;) :D



Sits on top of the door frame, and held in place by the two little blocks of wood which means I can easily take it down in seconds (there's was no way I was going to be allowed a permanent one!).

About 20 minutes build time:

- shitty old board cut to size
- lots of blocks lying about from the woody in the garage
- nails, glue
- sand down the edges.

Lots of nice big holds which I can just sand down and down as I get stronger.

Piece of piss, and free!!

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#17 Finger Bored
January 12, 2004, 07:45:51 pm
Some of those holds are so big you can get jams between them.  nice one.

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#18 Finger Bored
January 12, 2004, 07:58:50 pm
Well I am a weakling at the moment, no need to rub it in  :wink:

Seriously though, you need some big holds firstly to warm up on, and secondly, Mr Jared Roth reckons it's better for you to try and hang a big hold one handed than use two hands on some gnarly little thing.

dave

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#19 Finger Bored
January 12, 2004, 08:44:00 pm
looks like you've used a walnut veneer coffee table to make that!

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#20 Finger Bored
January 12, 2004, 08:48:47 pm
Fully minging or what  :D

dave

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#21 Finger Bored
January 12, 2004, 08:50:34 pm
are those holds all the same girth then or are some harder than others?

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#22 Finger Bored
January 12, 2004, 09:00:36 pm
There's two different width holds - big ones about an inch, and the little ones about a cm - some of the big ones are slopey, and I'm just going to sand them down as I go, as it's hard to work that out until you've used it a bit.

Should be fine for the moment but really it's a prototype and I'll probably built a new improved one once I've had a chance to work out what does and doesn't work. Given the amount of time it takes to knock one up they're virtually disposable.

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#23 Finger Bored
January 14, 2004, 10:55:36 am
Nice one, had any "interesting" moments with the nails? I upgraded and splashed out on some screws after being dumped on my arse, not that I 'm a tub of lard or anything :?

dave

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#24 Finger Bored
January 14, 2004, 10:58:18 am
i'd certainly be tempted to change to screws! good for swapping holds around etc.

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#25 Finger Bored
January 14, 2004, 11:12:14 am
If you use wood glue then there's no problem, but you can't move the holds once they're placed.

If I was doing something more fancy, I'd use T-nuts and bolts, like on a woody.

 

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