[r-man]

Found a dry problem at the Stride today - must have been done before, but don't know the name. Sitstart at the left end of the No Regrets traverse, move up to a knee-bar, then out to a crimp. From here there are two options, either bring the other hand across and move up to finish at good hole, or (harder) push back out left for the direct finish, locking off to the jugs.

Anyone know this problem?

Here's a mate demonstrating the easier version:

[grimer]

Yeah, it's documented in the script for the new guide. I found this and no-one knew much about it, apart from Martin Veale had probably done it. I gave it the name The Kid. Such a great problem on great rock, funny it's never been documented before (just want to clarify that in no way do I think I did it first by a matter of 20 years probably).

The left version, up the chunky flake is great too.

[r-man]

Cheers! Good to have a name. Great moves, though I have to admit it defeated me - couldn't make the knee-bar work at all.

What grade does it get in the script? Think my mate reckoned 7a and a grade harder for the direct finish.

[GCW]

Here's a mate demonstrating the easier version:

You were spotting him nicely there, R 

[r-man]

That's not me! You do want a good spot though - landing is a bit pointy.

[Sloper]

I did this a number of years ago (and for once have some crap photo's to prove it!) I can't remember when though as the shirt I was wearing is one I've had since about 1990.  7a seems very harsh for us dwarfes though, I remember the move out to the good holds being almost full extension.

I think a mate did the left hand / direct version going out left to the arete and said all a bit eliminate, but I'm not so sure.

I also did a thing to the right, about 1m left of the arete (grizzly?) well I said did, I sort of got stood up  undercutting the pod and the fell off.

[r-man]

I found the reach very hard, and only managed to do it once, with lots of knee contorting. But it seems that if you are the right size, this move is fairly straightforward.

The direct finish doesn't go anywhere near the arete - though I can see how you could head to the arete from the low undercuts.

There's a 7c just left of Grizzly arete called The Growler. Very long move from an undercut in the pod apparently (I've never tried).

There's also a 7b+ traverse called No Regrets. Anyone done this? Is it good?

All these things were prefectly dry yesterday when almost everything else was wet. Useful to know.

[Percy B]

The problems on the left have been done for donkeys years, and are great. No Regrets is the traverse from sitting just left of Grizzly Arete along the sloping pod to finish on the left arete of the block. Its pretty slopey and the rock is quite coarse so it is quite skin intensive, but a good problem (even if I say so myself...). The Growler does the same start but goes straight up from the pod to the top (from the pod up is a Martin Veale route) and is a bit harder and a bit spicier. To my knowledge it has been repeated by Ben Moon and Wills Young (although Wills dropped the top move to the break on his flash effort and nearly over-shot the ledge - he eventually manned up and stuck the move, but it was quite some ride he took!)

I my experience, if you're going to try The Growler, do Grizzly Arete first and traverse the break left to locate the good hold you pop for on Growler - you don't want to miss the good bit!

[dave]

certainly done something with that chunky undercut stistart a few years ago, I think it wasa warm day I was there with scouse and nodder, maybe they'll remember. I seem to remember after leaving the undercuts/kneebar it didn't seem to go anywhere (presumably straight up take you over the lack of landing?), I think we tried reversing along the traverse.