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finger injury - advice PLEASE (Read 10484 times)

unclesomebody

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finger injury - advice PLEASE
November 29, 2003, 01:13:25 pm
Right, I posted this on cocktalk and got no decent replies, but then I remembered that it is probably because half of the people in there don't climb, and the other half climb bimbly routes on hot summers days... (with the odd exception ofcourse).  So, I'm asking you lot now, because I assume you know more about this kind of thing because you lot are more serious climbers (boulderers, sorry).


I know that none of you are trained physio's or anything (well, some of you might be) and that you can't give me solid solutions, but I thought if anyone had had this same type of injury they could help me understand it.

Basically, I didn't warm up properly at an indoor wall, and was trying the hardest thing there (oh how my ego was battered) when I went into an undercut and felt something go in my left hand. But, it was just a small, sharp, isolated pain the palm of my hand. Now, I can't pull individually on my ring finger of my left hand. If I just place that finger on a bar in an open hand position I can take hardly any weight on it, before a sharp pain in my hand tells me to stop! BUT, it is only that finger, well, whatever is connected to that finger in my hand. Strangely however, if I crimp on that one finger, there is no pain when i put wieght on it. It is only painful in an open hand position. None of my other fingers are affected, and I can't notice it when I just do a pull up or climb, because the other fingers are taking a lot of the weight.

Firstly, what have I done? Secondly, is it serious? I would really appreciate any advice or input. Thanks in Advance .

dave

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#1 finger injury - advice PLEASE
November 29, 2003, 01:35:26 pm
i can't really give a specific advice cos the only finger injuries i've ever had were only strained tendons, i've never had one blow so don't know what its like, but it sound like you might have blown a pulley or summert.

unclesomebody

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#2 finger injury - advice PLEASE
November 29, 2003, 01:41:32 pm
it didn't hurt when I did it, and I even kept climbing in the comp.  But it was seriously sore the next day.  The centre of my palm where the ring finger connects was seriously sore and painful to touch.  But that pain has gone and now it's simply a case of not being to pull on that finger open handed.  Think I might need to get this seen to... anyone know any climbing related injury specialists?

T.H.

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#3 finger injury - advice PLEASE
November 29, 2003, 05:42:25 pm
Alright uncle,

Sorry to hear about your injury, I'm carrying one too at the moment if that makes you feel any better.

Although I'm no expert I do have to study sports injury as part of my degree and I've spent a lot of time with my lecturers diagnosing my own injuries.

I'm not entirely sure from the details you gave, but it sounds like it could be a mild sprain to the metacarpal-phalangeal retaniculum ligament, which is the pulley ligament at the base of the finger.  Very similar to what I've got at the moment.

Just to be sure, could you place your hand flat on a table, with your other hand on top of you fingers so they can't move, then try and clench your fist.  If it still hurts then, you've got a tendon injury.  But I don't think it's this.

If it doesn't hurt then it's definitely your ligament.

I take it you didn't do this very long ago?  In which case, don't climb on it at all for about two weeks.  After which you can climb on it normally, but only on holds which take all four fingers, and aren't tiny crimp things that are going to put a lot of pressure on the ligament.  After another couple of weeks you should be able to start properly strengthening it.

Obviously these are minimum times, and if you're in pain at any time then stop what you're doing.

dobbin

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#4 finger injury - advice PLEASE
November 29, 2003, 05:48:10 pm
It sounds very similar to what I did at the start of the year, I slapped an small hold open handed and something tore in my forearm and I fell off, I've no idea what it is or owt, but about three to four weeks of chillage mended me.

Then easy stuff, being careful and not letting James Pearson drag you up Pump up the power  :wink:

unclesomebody

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#5 finger injury - advice PLEASE
November 29, 2003, 05:51:35 pm
Hey, thanks for that reply.  Very informative.  I tried you table test and you were right, there is no pain when i try to clench my fist.  So if it's a ligament injury can i be taking any supplements to help it recover?  I read up on Lysine, one of the essential amino acids and from the numerous reports this appeared like it might be useful. You got any ideas?  Also, since it's ligament damage, is it permanent?  I mean, will it heal to full strength, or will it always be a little weaker?  

Not climbing is a real shitter at the moment, I've got lots of stuff I wanted to do, and for once motivated people who want to be out climbing the same stuff too!  I guess the projects will have to wait until january.  Thanks again for the advice.

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#6 finger injury - advice PLEASE
November 29, 2003, 05:53:12 pm
James isn't dragging me up pump up the power anymore!  It's grit season... he's got me being dragged up other insanely hard routes though... E8 is just too easy now... so it's on to E9, E10 and other unclimbed projects!  That boy is going good at the moment.

T.H.

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#7 finger injury - advice PLEASE
November 29, 2003, 10:45:59 pm
Not too sure about supplements.  I don't think there are any miracle cures.  As long as you eat a balanced diet you should be getting everything you need for a full recovery.

As long as you let the ligament fully heal then there's no reason why it should be weaker, but you must lay off for a bit, it's tough but you've got to think about the future.  I know how you feel though, today was the first day I've climbed in two weeks, I thought I was going to go mad.

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#8 finger injury - advice PLEASE
November 29, 2003, 10:58:47 pm
Also, (had a few beers and forgot to say this)

To speed up recovery, you might want to try some active recovery, which basically involves any form of aerobic exercise.  The principle's pretty simple, get your heart rate up, get more blood around the body which contains more nutrients to help repair the injury.

I have got some very good news as well. According to a lot of research, nearly all finger injuries fully recover.

KH

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#9 finger injury - advice PLEASE
November 29, 2003, 11:43:42 pm
Just tried the hand on table thing and the middle finger of my left hand was really painful.

Is this a tendon injury then, and have you got any tips on getting it better?

I assumed that it was an A2 pulley injury but you're diagnosis tips suggests not!

Cheers, Kev.

T.H.

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#10 finger injury - advice PLEASE
November 30, 2003, 03:14:23 pm
If there's definitely no movement and it still hurts then it's most likely to be a tendon injury.

The good news is that tendons get a much greater blood supply than ligaments and therefore heal quicker.

I take it that it's not too bad i.e. it doesn't hurt when not in use?  If that's the case, then a weeks rest, and a week easy climbing should be ok for recovery.

Once again though, if it does hurt then don't try and climb through it.

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#11 finger injury - advice PLEASE
December 05, 2003, 12:56:58 pm
Try glucosamine sulphate as a supplement, preferably with condroitin.  All the tests have been done using 1500mg per day.  I use 2000mg just to make sure and split the dosage up during the day.  Its not 'gold standard' but it does work.  Just don't expect to climb pump up the power tommorow (no change there :lol: )  The only side effets seem to be a touch of excema (if you are already prone) and after 3 month the body starts to get used to it (the glucosamine not the excema).  Try cycling it over a 4 month period.

laters and good luck

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#12 finger injury - advice PLEASE
December 05, 2003, 03:20:49 pm
Where can I find reliable information about this supplement?

Carnage

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#13 finger injury - advice PLEASE
December 05, 2003, 03:43:04 pm
Keith-

If its still giving you grief (and you don't get any joy from a physio) and you're still in London, try and get yourself referred to a guy called Rupert Eckersley at the Wellington nr St Johns Wood. He's probably one of the best hand experts in London and knows the score about climbing and will be able to put you right if it doesn't go away.

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#14 finger injury - advice PLEASE
December 08, 2003, 06:31:44 pm
mate, thanks for the advice.  It is still giving me grief, i've not been climbing, and i think it is healing, but slowly.  Unfortunately I'm not in london anymore.  Made the big move up to sheffield to climb more.  not exactly the greatest of times to have an injury!  I could do with seeing someone up north if anyone knows anyone i'd appreciate it...

erm, sam

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#15 fingers
December 10, 2003, 12:38:36 pm
Try the sports injury physios at who were based at the Don Valley Stadium. It think they probably still are.
 They have always sorted me out very expertly, though I never had finger probs. I used to see Alison Mcpharlen(wrong spelling for sure) and she was totally brilliant.

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#16 finger injury - advice PLEASE
March 07, 2004, 09:05:11 pm
I know its a bit late for a reply now, but it sounds like you have damaged the a4 pulley. When this happens you often feel a sharp pain in the forearm, followed by a dull pain in the palm of the hand. - or vice versa.
Symptoms (climbing wise) are pain while holding open handed hold, especially first joint holds. Crimps are fine because this pulley isn't used in that position.
The best thing to do is to STOP climbing COMPLETELY for 3-4 weeks and then start back, but try to avoid holds that will put undue stress on that finger (ie don't go pocket pulling with it)
I had this injury over a year ago and I still do not feel like my hand are at full strenght yet. I got back climbing after about 4 weeks off, and after another 2 months it had all but disappeared (unless I did somethig stupid like monos...)

Hope that helps a little,
Kevin

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#17 finger injury - advice PLEASE
March 10, 2004, 11:58:03 am
:shock: Hello in Finland for some bouldering and just injured me finger, right side ring finger, doesnt hurt to bend does not hurt to open hand crimp-really hurts if i use a close crimp and very weak. + quite weirdly really hurts if i squeeze it, feels almost like a bruise but isnt if that makes any sense.. hmm also not swollen wj´hich worries me alittle+ no other fingers affected. also did that funky hand on hand test and nothing happened! Really want to climb as seen aout the winter over here and the weather is just getting good fro granite cranking. Anyone got any ideas or done something similar. cheers

Carnage

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#18 finger injury - advice PLEASE
March 10, 2004, 12:24:24 pm
I've had similar and mine tends to be a build up of scar tissue from injuring the same spot a little over and over. Symptoms are exactly the same as yours. Normally go to a physio and have acupuntcure then ice and rest. Normally heals in 7-10 days with no climbing and after that you've just gotta be careful for a while.

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#19 finger injury - advice PLEASE
March 11, 2004, 10:58:13 am
Cheers Mr carnage! nothing to major then just take it easy i guess. Has yours got better or does it always feel a little weak? Never had a major finger tweak and its got me a little worried!! Guess ill have to raid the video store and couch surf for a while - damn hard with fine weather though. Do you know what you did to yours any diagnosis of sorts?

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#20 finger injury - advice PLEASE
March 19, 2004, 04:36:04 pm
I've got a similar thing.  No pain with the hand on hand thing, and it feels like a bruise just like you guys.  When half crimping a hold, the top knuckle of my ring finger pinged upwards, just audibly.  It's not what I'd call painful (compared to elbow stuff), but I can't clench all the way to a `fist' with that finger.  It does hurt a bit more when I squeeze it in to a fist.  Is this another rest job?

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#21 finger injury - advice PLEASE
March 19, 2004, 04:40:10 pm
I would say 'Yes' to rest. Ice it and stretch it plenty to prevent scar tissue wreaking its tightening evilness.

John Cooke

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#22 finger injury - advice PLEASE
May 11, 2004, 01:05:15 pm
Im constantly suffering from pulley injuries in particular A2's. Probably cos i never give them chance to heal properly! Latest finger injuries are A1's on the middle and index finger of my right hand subjected as a result of attempting Poverty!!

Taping works very well for A2's The best method ive found is to tape a figure of 8 around the knuckle with the finger slightly bent, providing a good degree of support

Dug a gud link out for you:

http://www.physsportsmed.com/issues/1997/05may/jebson.htm

http://www.timeoutdoors.com/climb/injuries/4CLMAMF01090404E.htm

 

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