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Rivelin Quarries Appeciation day - Sunday (Read 24908 times)

Doylo

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Slabs, aretes, 8c+ overhanging limestone. The boys on fire.......

Adam Lincoln

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Slabs, aretes, 8c+ overhanging limestone. The boys on fire.......

Whats he done in the cave though?  ;)

nik at work

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Hmmm, I'm hesitant to make specific comments on the grading of TML after all it was 10 years ago and I can hardly be said to be impartial but here goes (oh and I will probably have to at some point mention a problem that I have been specifically requested not to mention but hey-ho)...

All I'll say is that if TML is 7C+/8A then NW must be at least 8B which would make Chas Cooper a serious underground beast-wad. Bear in mind TML took me a day, NW took me the rest of that season.

Anyway back to Ry, he's going well right now isn't he :jaw: (almost as good as Stevie ;))

Fiend

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(oh and I will probably have to at some point mention a problem that I have been specifically requested not to mention but hey-ho)
Did you even try to resist ;)

Bonjoy

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All I'll say is that if TML is 7C+/8A then NW must be at least 8B which would make Chas Cooper a serious underground beast-wad. Bear in mind TML took me a day, NW took me the rest of that season.

I doubt anyone will be disagreeing with the notion that “the-problem-which-shall-not-be-mentioned” is undergraded at 8a. Does anyone have a hand written copy of Chaz Cooper’s thoughts on the subject?

nik at work

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I have an image of Chas as an 1830's dandy riding in a horse drawn carriage to a variety of crags, dispatching test-pieces with ease then riding back to his country retreat to write letters to Panton on parchment with quill and ink by candle-light before venturing out to the streets and lanes of old London town under the cover of night looking for temptresses and orange sellers to eviscerate...

I hope it's true (apart from the murder bit). Somebody must know this uber-wad???

r-man

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Quote
Does anyone have a hand written copy of Chaz Cooper’s thoughts on the subject?

Yes. Ok, word for word:

"As for Nik's Wall, I had no idea that it was unrepeated. I just wanted to climb somewhere I hadn't been before and found Nik's Wall suited my style, so I cannot remember the sequence, sorry."

But this thread is for other rivelin stuff. Hopefully JB won't mind if I post two pics from his blog - I think this problem/route looks amazing! Great shots also.



grimer

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Nice!

 :)

Did anyone do the E1 6a slab to the left of this, the technical highpoint of my visit to Rivelin Quarry?

Johnny Brown

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Where's the E1 6a bit? We did the arete to the left, which looks easy but isn't. At all. E3 6b?

nik at work

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That's Sex Drive, probably worth E4 for a matless solo I thought, E3 is with side runners.
I think there's 3 routes squeezed in between this and Piglet (Piglet is the corner left of TML), if I remember correctly the left hand line of the trio is E1 6a and, if memory serves, is a little eliminate due to its proximity to the central (easier, HVS?) line. All of this is from memory so may be wrong.

grimer

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Yes, that's the one. Eliminate but desperate. The crux is what I imagine the crux of some unrepeated Berzins' E7 6b on some dark north-facing lakeland crag would feel.

Worth doing. The E1 that is.

Fiend

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Yes, that's the one. Eliminate but desperate. The crux is what I imagine the crux of some unrepeated Berzins' E7 6b on some dark north-facing lakeland crag would feel.
Nice comparison, lol.

I've lead the E1 up the middle, it's quite good, fiddly pro though, not really "HVS?" ;)

mark20

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Right, rather than starting a new thread I thought I'd keep the psyche in one place...
As of this weekend-

Chimp B & Glom Onto are cleaned (thanks to Toby W). Both great problems, Glom Onto more like 6C if Chimp B is 7A
I did Jack the Groove which was fairly clean anyway (retro thanks for Nige) then cleaned the moss off Earthboots
Best way to get to these seems to be walking all the way along the road past the bend then straight up just before a nice house. I wasted ages bashing through the woods.

205Chris cleaned Flex about a year ago so that might still be in reasonable nick

awesome crag but wait for a cloud

mark20

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Right, rather than starting a new thread I thought I'd keep the psyche in one place...
As of this weekend-

Chimp B & Glom Onto are cleaned (thanks to Toby W). Both great problems, Glom Onto more like 6C if Chimp B is 7A
I did Jack the Groove which was fairly clean anyway (retro thanks to Nige) then cleaned the moss off Earthboots
Best way to get to these seems to be walking all the way along the road past the bend then straight up just before a nice house. I wasted ages bashing through the woods.

205Chris cleaned Flex about a year ago so that might still be in reasonable nick

awesome crag but wait for a cloud

205Chris

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205Chris cleaned Flex about a year ago so that might still be in reasonable nick

It might be, but it also appears to be in the trajectory of any muck being sprayed from the farmer's field above (as I found out first hand when I was cleaning it for the first time).

Best Crag in the World

Nigel

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Mark that's defo the best way in. When I started this thread that posh house was a derelict pub and you could park just where the old quarry track leads up, took no time to get there. Surprised that Earthboots had moss on it as it used to be really clean, but good effort cleaning it up. And nice one on Jack The Groove. Great crag.

mark20

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Pulled a plant out out of the slot on Flex and gave it a quick brush. Was wet so couldn't climb it but it looked really good. Hopefully it will dry pretty quickly now.

mark20

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Cleaned and climbed yesterday, by various folk-

Rodedendron Crack
Black Slab Arete, Black Slab, Tom Toms, Piglet - these are all really good short techy HVS-E1
Snivelin Rivelin - a good move past the peg
Portnoys Complaint - quality crimping up the edge of the slab. Rivelin is great for E2s.
Flex - very good, thin
Stunt Children - puzzling start, powerful above, nice
Teddybear's Picnic - awesome thin crack, which is more balancy than pumpy, peg is good.


mark20

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Also cleaned and tried Cold School Closure start, desperate!

nik at work

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I seem to remember there's a bit of a move higher up too. Although the start is the crux by a fair margin.
I always thought paddington was good, and the direct finish bora aira (sp?)

mark20

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Some one has done a great job clearing the brambles to the right of Flex and Final Overthrow of The Green Devil and flattening out the sloped landing :thumbsup:

Matthew Ferrier

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Gave Small Time a good de-gunking today, and it received an ascent. It's on the edge rather than the quarries but does suffer from the same undeserved lack of attention as the quarries. A much better route than expected,side runners easy to place on lead, and a low left runner stops you slamming into the wall. Logical to aim for the diagonal crack below the top for runners and finish leftwards.

Cleaned off a bit of the top of Summertime, but it was a half-arsed attempt, will finish the job at some point this year.

 

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