Fuck me, I have a five month backlog of watching Fiend dressed as a camp Serbian paramilitary climbing choss in Dundee. YYFY.
No doubt people will be queuing for this one
Impressive as these routes are, the answer to the question 'what is everyone else playing at?' is 'only trying new routes on Dorys ground-up'. (And rather ironic given the news source.) Its a shame Stevie has decided to again go against what has become the prevailing ethic of this area, though that's not to denigrate his original efforts developing this crag. There are a lot of potential routes remaining on Cilan whose challenge will be significantly diminished with pre-inspection.Be worth adding Pat's route Rockin' in the free world to the topo too. Takes the slim groove above the start of Cripple Creek, then the headwall above.
Impressive as these routes are, the answer to the question 'what is everyone else playing at?' is 'only trying new routes on Dorys ground-up'. ...
“We cleaned it on an abseil rope first; we must have removed a mini skip’s worth of loose rock”
I think the bigger issue is the use of pegs. Byzantium has unneccesary pegs on it but no one goes slagging off pat do they? I think a bit of pre-inspection and less pegs is better than GU and rotten ironmongery 10 yrs down the line. It's not like the Llyen will ever attract masses of top roping headpointers now is it?!
Was Ugly climbed ground up?...
I'm inclined to agree with Tom, I think the extreme nature of the rock dictates a loosening of the ethical code.
And before Stevie is hoisted up by the ethical police let’s remember that Pat has his fair share of ethical transgressions too. Aside from Tom's point about Byzantium, take Terrorhawk on Cilan Main; Pat placed a bolt on this (eliminated by Crispin Waddy on the second ascent) and abseil inspected the top pitch too.
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