[Jim]

Any tips?
basically I've got myself a fingerboard with the thinking that everytime I walkpast it I'll do X amount of pull ups on X fingers etc....
I really want to start to climb a bit harder but as far as motivation is conserned I only get motivated out on the rock and I don't think I can get much stronger/better just bouldering outside.
I hardley use my finger board and don't want to invest in other training aids until I get my money's worth from my fingerboard
I don't really enjoy going down the wall much either

[dave]

tip #1 - buy this:


tip #2 - don't just doa few pullups when you walk past your board - it'll probably do nothing for your fingers, may even unjure them. set yourself and hour aside, get warm, stretch, and work up to doing some deadhangs (arms slightly bent to avoid elbow injury). If you need to gradually work up to soem hangs then do them with 1 foot on a chair to get you going. try to do hangs that you can hold for about 5-10 seconds - any more than that means its too easy, you're training strength afterall not stamina. also put soem psyche music on, make sure theres no disturbances. don't have the telly on it'll only distract you. start off easy for your first few sessions while your body gets used to it. work up to doing an hour or so every few days, but only when you feel fresh.

basically you'll probably be able to get psyched if you can see some improvement. so say i;m going to try and do 5 reps of this hang at 6 seconds each. then i'm going to do 3 of this harder hang for 5 seconds. then when you can do it, time yourself, take 1 min rest between reps. once you get into timeing and stuff you can quantify your progress. it sounds gimpy but its ok. then try and do yout stuff with less rests, under time pressure (just like you are at the crag in winter trying to do that last problem before it gets dark, "just one more go" etc). also mix up your traiging a bit, do some very hard hangs inbetween longer ones. add weight. do soem weights inbetween, do some situps etc. get a friend around cos its always better training with someone of similar strength, easier for timing etc.

finally always listen to your body and take it steady. if you feel tired or tweaky then leave it - you'l, only get injured. do some itups (for body tension) instead or go and have a chop.

[Jim]

To make deadhangs harder do you use poorer holds or less fingers or a combination of both?
What about front levers?
Do you do them with your hands over or under and how long should you be (trying to) holding them for

[dave]

use a combination. be carefull of using too small holds that will bugger your tendons, or too slopey ones which you will grease off before the fail to hold them. i tend to find a comfy edge then add weight. as for less fingers go steady, if you feel weak then leave it. personally i hang openhanded or semi-open(little finger on) never crimped, thats mainly cos i'm good on crimps and could hang all day but weak on openhanded.

as for frontlever i dunno i can't do one.

[T.H.]

Good advice Homie!

Dead hanging is definitely the way forward.  I'm currently hanging a 3/4 inch rung (based on the Metolius small campus rung) fixed at 90 degrees on a rafter in my garage.  Been doing it for about ten weeks, at first had to use a finger on the other hand to hang it, but am now already adding weights.  I set the weight so I can hang the rung for 5 seconds and number of sets depends on how good I'm feeling on the day, usually about 6 each arm. Definitely the best thing I've ever done to improve my climbing.

Other good and simple training is one arm chin-ups.  If you can't do them them add a finger from the orther hand until you can.  I've found that I've got better results by not lowering to a fully extended arm, rather keeping the elbow bent slightly.  I know purists don't like this, but I've been getting a better work-out by doing it.  I do 5 reps (obvioulsy adding more weight as I can do more), and number of sets is the same as above.

Front levers are funny things.  I don't know how you build up to them because I found I could do them when I first tried.  I reckon the best way is to do stomach-crunches (not sit ups), and weighted leg lifts - Hanging on a bar, weights on your ankles and raise your legs from below you to in front of you (under control obviously).  Oh yeah, and your hands go over the top of the bar.

I reckon that's enough information for you to go on with, all cheap and easy, hope it works.