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Powerband (Read 4138 times)

butterworthtom

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Powerband
June 16, 2009, 08:36:15 pm
I did a forum search but can't seem to find any last move beta. I reckon there are probably afew ways of doing it so I'd like to hear all of them, particularly any crafty ones.

cofe

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#1 Re: Powerband
June 16, 2009, 09:12:05 pm

butterworthtom

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#2 Re: Powerband
June 16, 2009, 09:33:08 pm
 :oops:

cofe

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#3 Re: Powerband
June 16, 2009, 09:43:09 pm
sorry, that wasn't very helpful. it comes down to tolerating that minging pocket. i (try to) stuff 4 fingers in (some drag it open with 2 fingers) and crimp it, egyptian and then swing through with RH to undercuts. feet down, match into pillar. simple...

butterworthtom

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#4 Re: Powerband
June 16, 2009, 09:53:08 pm
Its where to stick my feet though when I have the evil pocket. I'm not strong enough to take all my weight on it.

cofe

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#5 Re: Powerband
June 16, 2009, 09:56:19 pm
with hands on jug i get minging pocket with LH with foot in small pocket on back wall. step RF onto polished nubbin right of it and extend LF down onto lower of two black footholds on pillar. then go for undercuts. by far the crux.

Andy Harris

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#6 Re: Powerband
June 23, 2009, 01:25:35 pm
there's at least a dozen ways to do this and pretty much involve the same description of polished holds and nubs. Suggest you ask some people next time you're out. It will be a lot easier.

Broadly there are 3 ways
1. some sort of egyptian
2. some sort of toe hook / toe low/round pillar
3. RF only direct below pocket (obviously not directly below as you need some odd body morhology)

some go direct from jug to u'cut others take intermediates on the way. probably at least 1000 variations.

Johnny Brown

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#7 Re: Powerband
June 23, 2009, 02:39:21 pm
At least. And not one of them pleasant.

dave

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#8 Re: Powerband
June 23, 2009, 03:02:39 pm
one of em ain't that unpleasant.

Johnny Brown

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#9 Re: Powerband
June 23, 2009, 03:05:07 pm
Oh yeah, I know the beta on that - be 6'4".

Andy B

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#10 Re: Powerband
June 23, 2009, 03:06:48 pm
one of em ain't that unpleasant.

It ain't powerband either.

dave

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#11 Re: Powerband
June 23, 2009, 03:09:22 pm
It ain't powerband either.

its better for a start.

fatboySlimfast

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#12 Re: Powerband
June 23, 2009, 03:49:22 pm
Quote
its better for a finish.

account_inactive

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#13 Re: Powerband
June 23, 2009, 10:59:16 pm
Quote
its easy for a finish

 

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