Something like 'no holding the good bit at the back' should do the trick for the Zippy's problem sloper, this has been in many of the previous guides.
Looks good.On George's Wall, there are two dynos:George's Wall Dyno - from jug to break - 7B / 7B+Quent's Legendary Dyno - jug to sloper - 7C / 7C+ ? (possibly unrepeated?)
i spoke to johnny about this problem once. he stated that he did not know how it came about that he did the first ascent. but he aknowledged quint fisher had done it first.he went on to say quint had done it from specified low footholds which is why he went to the sloper.
Quentin famously sieged...over a four year period, even driving out from Sheffield at five in the morning just so that he could get better conditions.
Jug to break would be stiff for 7b I reckon. More than one grade harder than the minus 10 ones?
No, not a Dawes problem. There was some confusion about this, but:http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,1519.msg15187.html#msg15187Quote from: ian hi spoke to johnny about this problem once. he stated that he did not know how it came about that he did the first ascent. but he aknowledged quint fisher had done it first.he went on to say quint had done it from specified low footholds which is why he went to the sloper.Which suggests Dawes may only have done it to the break? The dyno to the sloper is the one thathttp://www.climber.co.uk/categories/articleitem.asp?item=534Quote from: pantontinoQuentin famously sieged...over a four year period, even driving out from Sheffield at five in the morning just so that he could get better conditions.I have heard this before also, but I don't know where.
Going to the break doesn't feel much harder than other Minus Ten dynos to me. But going to the sloper is MUCH harder.
Quote from: r-man on February 24, 2010, 06:51:01 pmGoing to the break doesn't feel much harder than other Minus Ten dynos to me. But going to the sloper is MUCH harder.Everyone I know who has done this (not that many people, considering I knock about with lots of dyno fans) have taken considerably longer on this than the others. I've never tried going to the sloper, and don't know anyone who's done it.
Georges jug to break is a shit load harder than any of the usual -10 dynos with the possible exception of quents with the specified footholds, and one-arm with feet high on the edges, neither of which I've done to comment on. Its also significantly harder than stuff like the buckstone dyno etc. basically name me any 7b dyno in the peak and this is harder than it. You get the picture.Dunno if its just from being tall and bunched up on those high edges, but I felt on this you really had to pull hard with your arms, rather than the usual pendulum-and-legpush technique.
rocketman, d'you mind if I take the topo and turn it into an iPhone app? Obviously it'd go on the app store as a freebie and would welcome any advice (from anyone) about relevant credits/links in the opening screen. If it sounds like something useful/wanted I'll post up some screen shots, agree wording on the intro text and all that, and go from there
- you from a techynerdy background?
