[T_B]

Gash forecast for the weekend. Anyone know if this stays dry in the rain? I know it seeps, but hoping that there'll be little seepage and maybe it's sheletered... or is the belay round the lip?  Don't think I've ever been there so can't picture it at all. Thanks.

[Bonjoy]

None of the sport routes get rained on and I've climbed there in the rain, but it does suffer with condensation in humid conditions or fine drizzle or if rain has been blowing in for a while. Seepage wise I'd imagine it should be ok with the possible exception of some holds on Thormen's which is last to dry.

[T_B]

Nice one Bonjoy, I thought as much...

[account_inactive]

Went to try this the other day with the Randell.  The middle pockets are very wet at the moment.  We (read Tom) were trying to miss 2 of them out but alas it was not possible.  Great route though and will be back soon.  Didn't try the other things there so not sure what the score is

[Bonjoy]

It does take a good while for this route to dry and in my experience the undercut at the start of the trav left and one or two of the first pockets very rarely get totally dry. Unless we have an exceedingly dry year it’s best to assume you’ll have to deal with some level of wetness on these holds. I found it helped to leave a beer towel stuffed in the undercut between attempts. Fortunately the pockets are very positive and the moves on them not too hard. You could always try one of the much dryer *** 7c+s in the back....

[account_inactive]

It was more the mud and vertical downpour of water that put me off pulling on them

What/where are the routes in the back?

[Bonjoy]

I can imagine the wetness hasn't subsided to  acceptable damp recently. A bit of wet is one thing, rivers of mud is another.
Details of other routes here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=125
There used to be a thread on ukb with a topo on it. Unfortunately as the pic was hosted on the ukb gallery the link is now dead. I'll try to remember to repost it from my work pc where I have the original.

[Bonjoy]

Have located the topo and posted on the ukb vimeo group



On reflection Ragnarok is too nasty to be ***, probably ** at most. And Midgard Serpent seems to be 7b+ according to most who've done/tried it.

[T_B]

thanks, though being colour blind I will need some help with that 

[Andy B]

That diagram blows my little mind. I get disorientated under Ben's Roof, let alone that craziness.

I'm dead keen to get down there.

[Bonjoy]

Had a look yesterday. Most stuff had some wet patches. The only fully dry route was Loki. I’d guess that the routes in the back will be ok in about a week if the weather plays ball and Thormens will take a week or two longer.

[Tommy]

As long as Thormen's isn't your absolute limit in terms of grade it's pretty ok to climb in the wet and still very enjoyable - just a little harder work! Beer towel helps.

Can't wait to get down and try Dan's new thing as well - nice looking line.

[Adam Lincoln]

Likely to be drier by friday with warm weather, or not worth it yet?

[Bonjoy]

Going on how dry it was last time I was there and the weather since, I’d say it should be looking good. I’d guess that everything will be climbable with maybe some wet holds persisting on Thormen’s and in the back of some pod holds. Worth bearing in mind that like all limestone roofs it can get wet due to condensation in very humid still conditions, however it is a bit of a wind tunnel so this sort of wetness drys out rapidly.

[Adam Lincoln]

What a venue. Shame about conditions. Thormans Moth is one of the best out there routes in the UK. Very unique Annoyingly wet on a few holds in the middle. Nothing was chalked. More traffic needed at this crag guys, its amazing.

[Nike Air]

What a venue. Shame about conditions. Thor's Moth is one of the best out there routes in the UK. Very unique Annoyingly wet on a few holds in the middle. Nothing was chalked. More traffic needed at this crag guys, its amazing.

Yea this place should be visited more, once these routes get more chalk on them(take a chalk ball or three!!) it will be a premiere summer venue that would be bit more reliable I hope.
One thing it could do with is a maybe bolted warm up route about 6b. Sure one could be bolted up somewhere inside or outside?? I( know there are a few good trad routes but they take time to do.

[Bonjoy]

I've spotted a couple of warm up lines and have been meaning to sort. Should get them done soon.
Re the wetness, Thormen's is the last route to properly dry. The 7c+s in the back are mega and slightly faster.
How was the cave for condensation yesterday or seepage?

[Adam Lincoln]

How was the cave for condensation yesterday or seepage?

I think the floor was wet with condensation, but rock was ok. Just Thormans was seeping in the holds i described above. Not even climbable if you were an 8c climber! Again, i can not state how impressed i was with this line and the cave. Will get on the 7c+'s if Thormans is wet next time. We though about them but bailed to WCJ Cornice.

[Tommy]

How was the cave for condensation yesterday or seepage?

I think the floor was wet with condensation, but rock was ok. Just Thormans was seeping in the holds i described above. Not even climbable if you were an 8c climber! Again, i can not state how impressed i was with this line and the cave. Will get on the 7c+'s if Thormans is wet next time. We though about them but bailed to WCJ Cornice.

Nah! I'm a crap climber and I climbed it in the soaking wet. You've just got to grit down and pull a touch harder    You'd defo be able to do it Adam - I've seen how strong you are!!

Is Dan's new route conditions dependent? What's the drying times like on it? Has anyone had a go at repeating it yet?

[north_country_boy]

The Impression i got from Dan yesterday was that it is very dry at present and doesnt get wet easily......

Keen to get down and check out Thor's, looks good and very non-British!

[saltbeef]

is this place bad news on a weekend with all the touroids?

[Bonjoy]

It does get busy with folk on sunny days, but generally they all disappear by mid afternoon and you have the place to yourself.

[Andy B]

We went today. All the sport routes look really good, with quality lines and rock.

Unfortunately we were unlucky with the condensation by the sound of it, as everything was drenched. I guess it was probably a lot busier than usual as well, but the number of tourists was horrendous.

[Bonjoy]

 I had a feeling it might be gopping in this humid weather.
Was at Stoney today and even there a lot of the shaded bits were wet.

[Nike Air]

Anybody been in the last couple of days?? Does this slightly cooler weather mean no condensation.....