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Eastern Edges Today (Read 802368 times)

dave

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#1800 Re: Eastern Edges Today
January 24, 2015, 08:35:27 pm

I dried master kush with a combination of tissue paper, fanning with my sit start pad and lying around whilst the sun helped. Definitely climbable along with people haze.

Really? There was liquid runoff down both of them at 1am. I do sometimes wonder if some folks definition of dry is different to mine. The rock there needs care, on that block in particular there's been crumble damage to some of the lip holds on Haze recently, won't be helped if anyone is climbing on the bleeding edge of what's considered dry.

cha1n

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#1801 Re: Eastern Edges Today
January 24, 2015, 08:43:29 pm
It was all dry excluding the sloper on the lip which had a wet steak running across half of it. I jammed tissue paper into the flake above to stop it seeping and patiently dried the other half of the sloper. The pocket was already dry and one of the arete holds was wet underneath but not on the hold.

As it happens I didn't climb on it as my right shoulder was all aching from last week but someone else climbed it today.

Johnny Brown

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#1802 Re: Eastern Edges Today
January 24, 2015, 10:06:31 pm
Not sure what to believe here to be honest. Was Dave really there at 1am? Who is leaving steak on the crags?

dave

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#1803 Re: Eastern Edges Today
January 24, 2015, 10:21:20 pm
1pm, must be phone autocorrecting a typo in the wrong direction. Deffo piss wet but no meat products of any sort.

Surprised if the arete/pocket holds were dry, as they were soaked when we saw em, and get no sun in the afternoon and today no wind either. The undercut in the roof was also soaked.

My point remains though that when stuff is that wet even when the surface is "dry" enough to climb on it can be damp underneath and prone to damage.

cha1n

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#1804 Re: Eastern Edges Today
January 24, 2015, 10:34:30 pm
Sounds like a mystery? I would have expected the pocket to be wet along with the sloper but it wasn't. The undercut was not even close to 'piss wet' when I arrived. There was slight sheen to the area near the undercut but the water flow obviously wasn't significant enough to flow up onto the undercut itself.

There were definitely parts of the block that were too wet to climb on but luckily just not on the holds required to climb it. The main problem is the seeping flake above the sloper which is easily stopped with some tissue paper.

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#1805 Re: Eastern Edges Today
January 25, 2015, 10:37:47 am
Minty mint at Butbage N at the mo but quite nippy in the wind.

cha1n

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#1806 Re: Eastern Edges Today
January 25, 2015, 11:41:57 am
Higgar wet.

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Johnny Brown

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#1808 Re: Eastern Edges Today
January 30, 2015, 09:16:57 am
Any reports on the state of the Ringinglow road?

cha1n

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#1809 Re: Eastern Edges Today
January 30, 2015, 03:15:26 pm
the road's blocked from Stanage to Burbage (about 4ft drifts)!!

Quote from ukc

Johnny Brown

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#1810 Re: Eastern Edges Today
January 30, 2015, 05:01:57 pm
Jacob's ladder in good nick, maybe 10", not slushy, lightly pisted by sledgers, freshies to right and left.

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#1811 Re: Eastern Edges Today
January 30, 2015, 05:13:18 pm
There's always Pleasley Vale......

If you walk in from the A road end maybe...I though Mansfield area minor roads were still a problem. Matlock Bank would be my recommendation as its sunny, sheltered, quick melt/dry and a minute in from the flat urban side street parking and I bet most on this site still wouldn't have been there.

old cheese

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#1812 Re: Eastern Edges Today
January 30, 2015, 06:57:34 pm
 Off width, don't send em all my way. I don't want to hear the cries of joy from my perch under the car fitting new brake discs and not being allowed out

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#1813 Re: Eastern Edges Today
January 30, 2015, 08:16:00 pm
Can confirm that Ringinglow after the Norfolk Arms is only the realm of 4x4s and winter tyres. Very icy and thick packed snow throughout. Burbage North generally pretty disappointing for snowball potential, wind's blown the wrong way. The tops are clear and not much is melting though. Sphinx and Radioactive Dustbin had small drifts and were dry so could be shoveled by someone keen. Living in Oxford and Nefereti wet and barely any snow directly beneath, didn't go as far as 3BM but would be almost certain there'd be no drift.

Burbage West is thoroughly buried. Seems to me Stanage would have the right aspect for drifts but good luck getting anywhere near without snow tyres or equivalent.

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#1814 Re: Eastern Edges Today
January 30, 2015, 08:51:32 pm
Anyone got any idea what approach to curbar / frogatt is like?

tomtom

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#1815 Re: Eastern Edges Today
January 30, 2015, 09:15:46 pm
Anyone got any idea what approach to curbar / frogatt is like?

Would have thought Frogatt more likely than Curbar - its a main road....

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#1816 Re: Eastern Edges Today
January 31, 2015, 12:36:12 pm
desperot is dry an the roads fine

mark20

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#1817 Re: Eastern Edges Today
January 31, 2015, 06:33:21 pm
There was a bit of snow on the ground but not much above the rock. That V2 traverse by Pearls was dry. Plenty of snow to shovel under Desperot to make the landing flatter if required.
and at Dobb Edge, Dobbin's blog had a damp streak but the V4 traverse underneath was dry. There was one damp hold on Mr Dobbalina but the rest was dry and no snow on top so this might dry / be dryable tomorrow. Cold in the N wind.

Stump Hole Cavern was wet with insitu tramp and associated bric a brac

Top of Birchen looked snow free so the stuff there might be worth a look

Saw some climbers with pads going to Gardoms, I'd guess Perfect Day is dry but not much else there

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#1818 Re: Eastern Edges Today
January 31, 2015, 07:47:42 pm
Quote
Dobbin's blog had a damp streak

This was there when we did the FA - the original line avoids it, going off the right end of the rail past some smaller crimps. I call the lank-n-reach line off the bog crimps in the wet streak Dobbin's log.

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#1819 Re: Eastern Edges Today
January 31, 2015, 07:59:35 pm

This was there when we did the FA - the original line avoids it, going off the right end of the rail past some smaller crimps. I call the lank-n-reach LASH (Ask Guy VG) line off the bog crimps in the wet streak Dobbin's log.

 ;)

cha1n

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#1820 Re: Eastern Edges Today
January 31, 2015, 09:09:52 pm
Saw via facebook that bits of Curbar were dry and the roads were ok.

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#1821 Re: Eastern Edges Today
January 31, 2015, 09:26:34 pm
Pretty dry at Upper Matlock Quarries (Bank Quarry, Yew Buttress) today - only a few things had wet patches.

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#1822 Re: Eastern Edges Today
February 01, 2015, 09:10:54 pm
Froggatt was lovely this afternoon - rock all dry and snow-free. Amazed to see it almost deserted, alas I wasn't climbing either.

old cheese

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#1823 Re: Eastern Edges Today
February 01, 2015, 09:22:33 pm
Stanton moor excellent conditions. Apart from brads wall which was covered in snow so we cleaned it all off, should be good in a day or two

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#1824 Re: Eastern Edges Today
February 01, 2015, 09:33:44 pm
Curbar was all dry. Gardoms bouldering was ok . Only marks roof and bens wall icy....

 

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