[andyd]

That thumb looks painful. You kind of need a thumb quite regularly. Hope it heals quickly. Mine is still broken. I have an appointment at the plastic trauma clinic tomorrow. I'll be having another xray too. I've spent all weekend building a boat in Penrith and have bivi'd out every night without too much inconvenience. The worst part seems to be getting into bed (where I forget and catch it on the duvet) and trying to wash my right armpit with a bag over my hand. Anyway, my niece manages with having only one hand so I'm not going to whinge.

[Nibile]

Dammit. After missing the Swizzy weekend with Fatneck & co., and after reading about my friend Filz's fire baptism on the grit, I am really longing to climb outside now.
I have a particularly beautiful memory of flashing Steep Traverse at Stanage many many years ago, goddammit, so good. The sun, the wind, I can recall every sensation on every hold, how it felt flowing and perfect, how my muscles responded to my non conscious mind in a robot-like way. Beautiful.
Now I'm sad.

[the_dom]

Dammit. After missing the Swizzy weekend with Fatneck & co., and after reading about my friend Filz's fire baptism on the grit, I am really longing to climb outside now.
I have a particularly beautiful memory of flashing Steep Traverse at Stanage many many years ago, goddammit, so good. The sun, the wind, I can recall every sensation on every hold, how it felt flowing and perfect, how my muscles responded to my non conscious mind in a robot-like way. Beautiful.
Now I'm sad.

I'll be in Magic Wood from the 27th to the 31st of May - make a plan!

[Nibile]

Nice one Dom, it would be nice to come over!
I'll try to!

[twoshoes]

Best part of six months off with what I thought was a minor finger tweak. Two weeks back and I tweak it again on a 6b. Bollocks.

[Oldmanmatt]

Best part of six months off with what I thought was a minor finger tweak. Two weeks back and I tweak it again on a 6b. Bollocks.

I'd take a couple days off for a minor tweek, 1/2 a year doesn't seem that minor; possibly 6b, two weeks into rehab, was a bit ambitious?

Hopefully it's nothing more than the usual rehab two step.

[the_dom]

Nice one Dom, it would be nice to come over!
I'll try to!

Will DM you our details.

[Nibile]

 

[DAVETHOMAS90]

It's not generally like me to post on this thread, but this is serious.

For 30 years, I've been able to go to Broomgrove wall, as my sanctuary in the darkness of the night, safe in the knowledge that it was ever basking in the fugal glow of neon.

Yet now, it appears, the lights have finally gone out. This, for now, seems to be truly, the end of an era.

 





There may not be many who turn up there at midnight, to share the wall with the owls, but hopefully, a few who will know that something is being lost.

 

(Thankfully, phone and bike lights helped me reach into the darkness and "pull out a crimp" - sorry, I love that one, north_country_boy  )

[Fultonius]

 

[DAVETHOMAS90]

 

That's a bloody good idea 

I've not played Connect Four for years! 



A "Best L.E.D / workkight" thread would be good.

[Will Hunt]

A "Best L.E.D / workkight" thread would be good.

This is what you want, Dave:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8731.msg500146.html#msg500146

I think the best value-for-money option is to go with two of the ones from Screwfix (£30) that Highrepute links to.

[Falling Down]

Dammit. After missing the Swizzy weekend with Fatneck & co., and after reading about my friend Filz's fire baptism on the grit, I am really longing to climb outside now.
I have a particularly beautiful memory of flashing Steep Traverse at Stanage many many years ago, goddammit, so good. The sun, the wind, I can recall every sensation on every hold, how it felt flowing and perfect, how my muscles responded to my non conscious mind in a robot-like way. Beautiful.
Now I'm sad.

I'll be in Magic Wood from the 27th to the 31st of May - make a plan!

I'm visiting Switzerland for the first time next weekend.  Flying into Zurich then staying in Biasca.  We'll climb at Chironico on Friday 27th; Cresciano on Saturday. Sunday's open and we might be at Magic Wood or doing something cultural in Zurich.

[Nibile]

Hey that's cool!
I'm waiting to know if my girlfriend can take a day off from work, and if so then it's Swizzy time!

[DAVETHOMAS90]

A "Best L.E.D / workkight" thread would be good.

This is what you want, Dave:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/
topic,8731.msg500146.html#msg500146

I think the best value-for-money option is to go with two of the ones from Screwfix (£30) that Highrepute links to.

Thanks for the link Will. 

However, this is about Broomgrove 

I have a Lidl special, which was £4 after it'd been reduced. Bit feeble, but fits in my rucksack (no car). Should probably sort myself out with one of those cheap Chinese Cree exploders.

Nowt like bouldering at 1a.m. in the neon afterglow of a post apocalyptic sunset.

Even the bulb directly above the wall seems to be defunct now. This wouldn't be so bad, if we had a decent climbing wall.

Hang on, is this 1986..

[dave]

Dave, have you tried changing the bulb?

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Dave, have you tried changing the bulb?

Thanks. Mine in it now. The one I took out worked when I tested it at home. Socket might be knackered, but I don't think they use the building anymore.

No, this really is hopeless. I might even have to resort to using sunlight!

[the_dom]

Dammit. After missing the Swizzy weekend with Fatneck & co., and after reading about my friend Filz's fire baptism on the grit, I am really longing to climb outside now.
I have a particularly beautiful memory of flashing Steep Traverse at Stanage many many years ago, goddammit, so good. The sun, the wind, I can recall every sensation on every hold, how it felt flowing and perfect, how my muscles responded to my non conscious mind in a robot-like way. Beautiful.
Now I'm sad.

I'll be in Magic Wood from the 27th to the 31st of May - make a plan!

I'm visiting Switzerland for the first time next weekend.  Flying into Zurich then staying in Biasca.  We'll climb at Chironico on Friday 27th; Cresciano on Saturday. Sunday's open and we might be at Magic Wood or doing something cultural in Zurich.

I'll DM you my details. If you're keen on Magic Wood, it would be great to meet up.

[Falling Down]

Yeah - Definitely. We're a bit off topic with all this positivity for this thread!

[Baldy]

Well if it helps bring things back on track, I have once again f*cked my big toe up.

The one that was on the mend after a year of being shite.

I call bullshit.

Still, might encourage me to get on the fingerboard this time.

[SA Chris]

Fucked up how? I broke mine into 6 pieces once.

[Baldy]

About a year ago, I jumped off a boulder from about 3m and felt it click like I had just clicked my knuckle.
I wasn't able to walk the 15 minutes home, and haven't been able to wear a tight rock shoe since.

I've been working it back up through an oversize Evolv Valor, some short sessions in some of my old and stretched shoes, and finally into the new Shamans - which don't hurt it for some reason...still a bit sore after a session, but nothing unmanageable. Everything seemed on the up, and I was starting to train again.

Then a couple of nights ago I hopped on an easy problem with big footholds, in my nice stiff Guide Tennies, I did a twisting move and felt something tear in my toe. I initially thought it was all over, and I would just have to forget climbing anything this year, but I can still walk, and it just seems to be weird moves that make it strain...but it really hurts when it does. I'll be finding a doctor to get it looked at, but 2 years of constant injury are starting to get a little trying.

[SA Chris]

That sucks. In many ways breaks are easier to deal with. What was the diagnosis?

[Oldmanmatt]

Ok, this might sound odd, but go with me here.

I lost bits from my right big toe to frost bite/nip in '92. I have chronic pain, bad circulation, something that passes for a "nail" that keeps falling off. Rock shoes are an absolute nightmare.

I developed several coping techniques over the years.

1: Force myself to sit in "Kiza" as much as possible. It hurts like all the Bastards in hell, but you learn to isolate the sensation and put it away.

2: When I was still climbing hard (for me), I had three different size shoe choices. One, a half size up from street; to warm up in. Another, street size; for bad days where no prep worked. And my absolute max, a size down from street; for good days.

Lack of climbing hard recently has given me the best nail I've had in a decade.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Baldy]

Thanks for the tip OMM, if nothing else, those those pictures will tide me over until better days.