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NNFN!!!! (Read 885213 times)

Fiend

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#2425 Re: NNFN!!!!
March 12, 2018, 08:45:01 am
My experience of Eskdale granite was that at it was pretty grim. I think I was bouldering there in late spring or some other such bullshit tho.

Hope the finger heals well.

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#2426 Re: NNFN!!!!
March 20, 2018, 04:00:18 pm
After a few years of getting weaker on small crimps, X-rays show arthritis in DIP joints (not really a surprise and I've had a pretty good run, basically crimping the shit out of everything for about 30 years).

Specialist doc next week. Not quite ready to chuck it in and buy a new bike yet, there are still a few hardish things I'd like to do.

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#2427 Re: NNFN!!!!
March 21, 2018, 01:24:31 pm
Not good! If you don't mind me asking, how old are you now? My ring fingers seem to be permanently swollen and sore these days.

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#2428 Re: NNFN!!!!
March 21, 2018, 03:49:07 pm
Only 46!

A cursory google search doesn't throw up any systematic links between climbing and finger joint arthritis, so I guess I'm just unlucky.... although I prefer "special"  ;D

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#2429 Re: NNFN!!!!
March 21, 2018, 04:41:50 pm
Is it an Osteoarthritis?
I’m told my Halux rigidus is probably non-freezing cold injury related. Though I actually had frostbite further up yhe same toe...

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#2430 Re: NNFN!!!!
March 22, 2018, 09:07:18 am
Only 46!

A cursory google search doesn't throw up any systematic links between climbing and finger joint arthritis, so I guess I'm just unlucky.... although I prefer "special"  ;D

You've got 2 years on me then. Mine are actually feeling OK now, maybe just overreacting, was a tough session repeatedly trying a problem on crimps on a 45 board.

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#2431 Re: NNFN!!!!
March 22, 2018, 01:31:30 pm
After a few years of getting weaker on small crimps, X-rays show arthritis in DIP joints (not really a surprise and I've had a pretty good run, basically crimping the shit out of everything for about 30 years).

Back in 1983 I climbed with Charlie "Wrinkle" Creese, a strong and talented Kiwi. He'd just been diagnosed as having arthritis in his finger joints. His consultant recommended he keep climbing but nothing too hard. Which is what he did...for about two weeks. He went on to put up New Zeland's first 30 (8a+, and knowing CC probably a sandbag) and is still cranking. It ain't over...

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#2432 Re: NNFN!!!!
March 22, 2018, 01:55:09 pm
This guy?



He looks a bit older than me, but his fingers don't look so fucked up.. my knuckles have been deformed since I was about 18.

Thanks for the encouragement. I'm still OK open-handed, so haven't sold my gear and burnt my shoes yet.

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#2433 Re: NNFN!!!!
March 22, 2018, 02:05:21 pm
The very same.

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#2434 Re: NNFN!!!!
March 22, 2018, 03:02:40 pm
My finger joints are a mess, but I can still crimp. The worst bit though is that as soon as I release pressure from the hold, I'm in searing pain for a few seconds and quite often have to shake out the hand before using the next hold. I'm just more choosy about what kind of routes and problems I do these days, as long as it isn't crimp after crimp it's fine.

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#2435 Re: NNFN!!!!
April 08, 2018, 09:38:07 am
Well, the visit to the specialist about my fingers was really as I expected, in that he essentially took one look and asked if I do any other sports... had a final go at the wall that evening and am forced to admit that even pulling gently on big holds hurts. Taping doesn't help and it's time to stop.  :shit:

I've been prescribed a month of Voltarel gel to calm down the current inflammation, I've taken down the fingerboard and have bought new running shoes  :goodidea: I might get back to doing easier routes one day, but at the moment I don't really w 

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#2436 Re: NNFN!!!!
April 08, 2018, 10:22:27 am
(not sure what happened there.. forum time has reset, can't edit?? - here's the whole thing)

Well, the visit to the specialist about my fingers was really as I expected, in that he essentially took one look and asked if I do any other sports... had a final go at the wall that evening and am forced to admit that even pulling gently on big holds hurts. Taping doesn't help and it's time to stop.  :shit:

I've been prescribed a month of diclofenac gel to calm down the current inflammation, I've taken down the fingerboard and have bought new running shoes  :goodidea: I might get back to doing easier routes one day, but at the moment I don't really want to - I'd always be worried about smaller holds, I'd always be looking at the hard routes next door and the doc made it quite clear that I have limited use left in my fingers. I have to economise what I have left as they'll never get any better. I could keep going for a while, my fingers aren't that bad, but stepping back now misses out a lot of frustration and avoids the potential for things getting really bad. I still need to be able to drive, use a computer and feed myself for quite a few years (all things that sometimes make my fingers ache now!).

I'll see you all over on Strava, and on the "One for the runners" thread  :dance1:

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#2437 Re: NNFN!!!!
April 08, 2018, 10:58:58 am
Sorry to hear that Palomides.  It sounds like you're making a sensible decision and you come across as relatively positive in spite of the diagnosis.  Good luck with the treatment and I'm sure you'll find great pleasure in whatever you decide to do.



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#2438 Re: NNFN!!!!
April 08, 2018, 03:07:38 pm
:( sounds like you're doing the right thing...

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#2439 Re: NNFN!!!!
April 08, 2018, 05:31:32 pm
Sorry to read that Palomides, very frustrating. Fell running might be fun, but have you tried yoga (especially Astanga) - it can scratch a surprisingly similar itch to climbing- technical, demanding, endless progression... Good luck!

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#2440 Re: NNFN!!!!
April 09, 2018, 08:20:58 am
Wow strong post Palomides, you're doing the right thing.
Best of luck!
 :strongbench:

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#2441 Re: NNFN!!!!
April 17, 2018, 10:57:04 am
Not good, but plenty of other fun games to play out there!

Need to change your Avatar!

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#2442 Re: NNFN!!!!
April 17, 2018, 03:21:13 pm
 
(not sure what happened there.. forum time has reset, can't edit?? - here's the whole thing)

Well, the visit to the specialist about my fingers was really as I expected, in that he essentially took one look and asked if I do any other sports... had a final go at the wall that evening and am forced to admit that even pulling gently on big holds hurts. Taping doesn't help and it's time to stop.  :shit:

I've been prescribed a month of diclofenac gel to calm down the current inflammation, I've taken down the fingerboard and have bought new running shoes  :goodidea: I might get back to doing easier routes one day, but at the moment I don't really want to - I'd always be worried about smaller holds, I'd always be looking at the hard routes next door and the doc made it quite clear that I have limited use left in my fingers. I have to economise what I have left as they'll never get any better. I could keep going for a while, my fingers aren't that bad, but stepping back now misses out a lot of frustration and avoids the potential for things getting really bad. I still need to be able to drive, use a computer and feed myself for quite a few years (all things that sometimes make my fingers ache now!).

I'll see you all over on Strava, and on the "One for the runners" thread  :dance1:

That's really hard for you mate.
It's posts like this that make me realize how fortunate I am in being able to continue doing the shit I love. After 4 years of lousy and continuing health issues (MS and partially sighted FWIW) I am still lucky enough to be looking forwards and if the hammer drops tomorrow, some fantastic days with fantastic people to remember.
Good luck Palomides,you're sounding really positive.
« Last Edit: April 17, 2018, 03:30:14 pm by sherlock »

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#2443 Re: NNFN!!!!
April 17, 2018, 04:52:37 pm
Palomides, whilst I would certainly advise you to listen to the advice from the specialist, I can also give you some positive hope as a fellow sufferer.

Although I only have two DIP joints with osteoarthritis, one is particularly bad (Imagine an elephants foot bent at 15deg!). When I was first diagnosed about 3 years ago I had 6 months of very intense pain and I really thought it was game over. The medical advice I received was basically "If it gets very bad we can give you pain killers or fuse the joint, bye". After 6 months the pain gradually decreased and it is now only a minor inconvenience which doesn't limit my climbing at all. The only 'meds' I take are rosehip, which acts as a minor anti-inflammatory.

So maybe stick with the running shoes for a bit, but don't give up hope completely.

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#2444 Re: NNFN!!!!
April 18, 2018, 10:42:59 am
Imagine an elephants foot bent at 15deg

Sounds like mine. I've just given fingers a 3 week break, and swelling seems to have gone down a bit, and no pain where it was hurting before, going to climb again next week, and see how they feel.

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#2445 Re: NNFN!!!!
April 18, 2018, 10:52:20 am
Well, the visit to the specialist about my fingers was really as I expected, in that he essentially took one look and asked if I do any other sports... had a final go at the wall that evening and am forced to admit that even pulling gently on big holds hurts. Taping doesn't help and it's time to stop.  :shit:

I've been prescribed a month of Voltarel gel to calm down the current inflammation, I've taken down the fingerboard and have bought new running shoes  :goodidea: I might get back to doing easier routes one day, but at the moment I don't really w

2 things:

Firstly it may be worth speaking with Prof Volker Schoeffl in Bamberg. The price of flights plus appointment won't be cheap but also probably not as much as you expect. Steve McClure and several others have gone to him with chronic finger injuries.

Secondly, it may be worth exploring whether there are any non-climbing causes to the arthritis that can be fixed. Diet/food intolerance for example can be a cause of arthritis and dietary change can have a large effect in reducing arthritic inflammation to a manageable level.

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#2446 Re: NNFN!!!!
April 18, 2018, 10:55:34 am
Palomides - sorry to hear that dude, I hope you either enjoy the running, or the fingers ease off, or you get totally into off-width cracks. Best wishes either way  :strongbench:

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#2447 Re: NNFN!!!!
June 24, 2018, 09:50:43 pm
So, loaded kids in car (two of them, anyway), dogs, strapped pads to the roof and set off to Bonehill for a hot day session.
Got onto the A380 and there’s a twang, the roof strap snaps and pads go flying.
There’s no hard shoulder.
So, we whip up to the Kingsteignton junction (100mtrs? Not much more), spin round, back to the Newton Abbot junction (1/2 mile? ish), lights on the roundabout and back to the layby just before the point where they blew off. Kids safe, I ran back along the road.

Bloody gone.

Less than ten minutes.

Oh, and it now costs £4.95 to report the loss and get a report for the insurance, because Devon and Cornwall police have privatised that function...

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#2448 Re: NNFN!!!!
June 25, 2018, 08:56:45 am
The right wing along wih Lega Nord just won the elections for the Mayor in Siena.
A town with a strong libertarian, republican and antifascist history, just stepped into barbarity.

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#2449 Re: NNFN!!!!
June 25, 2018, 09:12:45 am
The right wing along wih Lega Nord just won the elections for the Mayor in Siena.
A town with a strong libertarian, republican and antifascist history, just stepped into barbarity.

Lore, it’s global.
People feel lost and disenfranchised, conmen and hucksters with loud voices promise simple solutions to complex problems. The illusion of strength, is beguiling to the weak, the illusion of being part of a “movement”.
History, science, facts in general; mean little to those who slept through those lessons or even to those too caught up in their own daily misery to give much thought to intricacies of the world.
It’s not even a function of intelligence, simply that it will only ever be a minority of people who will stop and truly contemplate or empathise.
Most will blithely ignore everything thats not right in their path, until the world begins to intrude on their personal bubble, then scream for “someone to do something about it” and cling to the first firm voice that agrees with them.
A world where people read the headlines, but never the whole article; let alone seeking out alternative views.

 

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