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Solo Bouldering South Wales (Read 1951 times)

warmonke

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Solo Bouldering South Wales
February 20, 2023, 03:34:23 pm
At the risk of being too niche: anyone know any half decent spots in/around the South Wales area for a solo bouldering session? Only got the one pad and usually work weekends so can be a pain finding a spotter.

Ideally around the 6s. Any suggestions appreciated!

edshakey

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#1 Re: Solo Bouldering South Wales
February 20, 2023, 03:50:05 pm
I know next to nothing about South Wales bouldering. What I do know, however, is that Eliot Stephens has written a guidebook to it, very recently, so that would be worth picking up (on a fair few websites, probably in some climbing wall shops too?). Should be about 20 quid.

Even if you get recommendations for crags, a guidebook seems like an inevitable purchase!

Enjoy :)

remus

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#2 Re: Solo Bouldering South Wales
February 20, 2023, 03:54:30 pm
Been a while since I was in the area but Dinas Rock is a good spot for a solo session. Flat landings and generally not too high.

Neath Abbey is also doable on your own but is a bit more spicy so you'd need to be selective about what problems you get on.

jakaitch

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#3 Re: Solo Bouldering South Wales
February 20, 2023, 04:26:59 pm
Depending where in SW you are
- Billberry boulders
- Dinas Rock
- Garn Clochdy
- Goitre Coed
- The Lonely Boulder (Lllangatock)

Theres also Huntsham and Biblins (1st May - September 30th) a short drive away.

As mentioned above, worth getting Elliots guide!

SA Chris

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#4 Re: Solo Bouldering South Wales
February 20, 2023, 04:29:14 pm
South Wales is a big area! When conditions are right (low tide) there is some stuff to do at Rest Bay and Ogmore too. UKC is a good starting point.

warmonke

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#5 Re: Solo Bouldering South Wales
February 20, 2023, 04:49:15 pm
Cheers for the recommendations! I do have access to the book (steal it off a mate when needs be) and have done a fair bit of trawling through UKC choss but it's not always clear what the landings are like, especially with only one pad. Bilberry, Dinas and Llangattock are all good shouts though

Anoesis

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#6 Re: Solo Bouldering South Wales
February 21, 2023, 08:21:12 pm
In the 6s and depending where you are the Sewerpipe area mumbles way or Ogmore if further east should fit the bill…

AMorris

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#7 Re: Solo Bouldering South Wales
February 22, 2023, 03:09:58 pm
South Wales based climber here too. Goitre Coed is great for some evening sun and lowballing on lovely sandstone. Ogmore is also great, and has plenty of single pad stuff even in the trench. Neath Abbey is a cracking area, but its at its best in the 7s with multiple pads and maybe a spotter, so it might not be ideal. Sully Island is quite a bit of fun too. The landings aren't great and the problems can be a bit sharp, but it's a lovely place to spend some time (unless you get caught by the tide, in which case its essentially your very own Alcatraz for 6 hours). Further east, Huntsham is good, and Biblins is better if you enjoy steep lime and are pushing into the 7s. There are some good tidal areas over Gower way too.

Duma

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#8 Re: Solo Bouldering South Wales
February 23, 2023, 10:28:51 am
Biblins isn't great with just one pad, and bat banned until May.


warmonke

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#9 Re: Solo Bouldering South Wales
February 23, 2023, 10:32:23 am
South Wales based climber here too. Goitre Coed is great for some evening sun and lowballing on lovely sandstone. Ogmore is also great, and has plenty of single pad stuff even in the trench. Neath Abbey is a cracking area, but its at its best in the 7s with multiple pads and maybe a spotter, so it might not be ideal. Sully Island is quite a bit of fun too. The landings aren't great and the problems can be a bit sharp, but it's a lovely place to spend some time (unless you get caught by the tide, in which case its essentially your very own Alcatraz for 6 hours). Further east, Huntsham is good, and Biblins is better if you enjoy steep lime and are pushing into the 7s. There are some good tidal areas over Gower way too.
Cheers for the advice! I've been to Goitre Coed before but it was fully overgrown so will have to try take a trip back before it turns back into a jungle. I do want to check out Neath Abbey some time too but not sure I'd even like to risk the walk-in without a spotter lol. Sounds like Ogmore's one of the best bets.

I also stumbled upon West End Buttress which looks like it fits the bill pretty perfectly!

Duma

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#10 Re: Solo Bouldering South Wales
February 23, 2023, 10:57:39 am
Neath is ok on your own, I've done it a few times. Some things will be off the menu but there's plenty there.

fatneck

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#11 Re: Solo Bouldering South Wales
February 23, 2023, 01:50:40 pm
Plumstone Mountain and Treffgarne both fit the bill. Nice friendly landings and eliminates galore once you've worked your way through the obvious lines. Interesting rock and quick drying to boot.

sdm

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#12 Re: Solo Bouldering South Wales
February 23, 2023, 02:19:58 pm
Biblins isn't great with just one pad, and bat banned until May.
Agreed. You could get a session of things in the 6s and low 7s that are OK with one pad before you run out:

New School Old School, Pop for the Top (and all of its variations, but not extensions), the 6A tufa, and the meh stuff on the right.

But everything else is going to want more than 1 pad and often a spotter too. The bulge is going to need at least 2 pads and a spotter if it's close to your limit.

Finding a spotter and more pads for Biblins will usually be OK on a summer weekday evening.

warmonke

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#13 Re: Solo Bouldering South Wales
February 23, 2023, 03:31:18 pm
Plumstone Mountain and Treffgarne both fit the bill. Nice friendly landings and eliminates galore once you've worked your way through the obvious lines. Interesting rock and quick drying to boot.
Not familiar with either of these, will check them out, thanks!

Biblins isn't great with just one pad, and bat banned until May.
Agreed. You could get a session of things in the 6s and low 7s that are OK with one pad before you run out:

New School Old School, Pop for the Top (and all of its variations, but not extensions), the 6A tufa, and the meh stuff on the right.

But everything else is going to want more than 1 pad and often a spotter too. The bulge is going to need at least 2 pads and a spotter if it's close to your limit.

Finding a spotter and more pads for Biblins will usually be OK on a summer weekday evening.
Hopefully when Biblins is open I shouldn't struggle too much to find people to go with I'm just at a bit of a loose end at the minute because my usual companion is out of action, appreciate the advice anyway

Anoesis

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#14 Re: Solo Bouldering South Wales
February 24, 2023, 07:43:24 pm
Again as a south wales based climber, climbing on the beach at the sewerpipe in limeslade at the requested grade is probably as good as it gets……

 

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