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Bell Hagg project now a new 8a+ (Read 7693 times)

fashionguru

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Bell Hagg project now a new 8a+
February 01, 2009, 10:06:34 am
Yesterday Mike Adams made the 1st ascent of the often tried sit start to the Lurcher.

The problem which now starts under the roof with feet jamed in the back (obvious) , pull on and out to the lip left hand good crimp then slap the arete to gain the nothingness of a hold. Now cut cut loose hold the swing and slap for the better starting holds of the lurcher. Move your feet up and climb the lurcher to the top.

Impressive climbing again from Mike. (well done)

The problem is now called WHIPPET and weighs in at 8a+

I will try and put photos up but they are on face book for all to see.

Tony

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#1 Re: Bell Hagg project now a new 8a+
February 01, 2009, 10:12:59 am
Nice. That been an oft mentioned project for a loooooonnngggg time.

Bonjoy

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#2 Re: Bell Hagg project now a new 8a+
February 01, 2009, 11:48:18 am
Effort. Down goes another LGP

Oli

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#3 Re: Bell Hagg project now a new 8a+
February 01, 2009, 12:04:27 pm
Awesome.
Is this the barrel shaped roofy thing near the right hand end (looking in)?

PATRuL

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#4 Re: Bell Hagg project now a new 8a+
February 02, 2009, 12:51:33 am
Sorry to steal the thunder, but i saw a colony of ants doing that years ago, i'd hazard a guess that it was ascent number 23434.  However, i suspect this could be the first human ascent, of the aforementioned problem, well done.  I looked at it years ago and thought some things.  I didn't quite identify with it stongly enough to invest the physical effort.  However, however, way back when that very same rock was tilted back 90degrees and allsorts of cavemen types where merely walking up it.  So this renders grading to be by its very nature of natureness somewhat subjective at the best of times.  The question that begs to be asked is oh i've forgotten.  But the Lurcher area is a very nice spot for a picnic.  One wonders what will ARISE IN THE NEXT MOMENT?  What are the thoughts that move us into action?  What is one's drive for this or that?  Give me a cornetto.

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#5 Re: Bell Hagg project now a new 8a+
February 02, 2009, 05:25:00 am
Effort Mike - bet its not a 'soft' or bottom end 8a+ either. Although it's a well known LGP has it been seriously tried much before?

Huffy

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#6 Re: Bell Hagg project now a new 8a+
February 02, 2009, 12:40:14 pm
Good effort Mike. Tried this line quite a bit when I was in Uni and could never hold the swing. Did he go off the small slopey crimp for left hand?

r-man

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#7 Re: Bell Hagg project now a new 8a+
February 02, 2009, 12:49:52 pm
Huffy, the word is that you did a problem called Tolerance near Bell Hagg. No one seems to know much about it though. Any details? And are there other problems on the same boulder?

dave

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#8 Re: Bell Hagg project now a new 8a+
February 02, 2009, 12:57:09 pm
good effort mike.

r-man, there was a thread recently about huffy's thing.

r-man

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#9 Re: Bell Hagg project now a new 8a+
February 02, 2009, 01:00:22 pm
I'm aware of that. The last post in that thread was: "Is there anymore beta on this yet?  Huffy?"

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=9841.0

Dolph

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#10 Re: Bell Hagg project now a new 8a+
February 02, 2009, 07:18:29 pm
Tried this line quite a bit when I was in Uni and could never hold the swing. Did he go off the small slopey crimp for left hand?

I remember trying it around the same time as you Huffy and seeing you walking in as i was walking out. That was years ago! To be honest i had dismissed it back then, but then a conversation with Dense in a pub one night brought it back to my attention. Thanks Lee!!!

As Tony said, I got that small slopey crimp with the left, slapped out right for the very poor shallow arete. From here i compressed down hard, managed to hold the swing and go footless. Now a tricky campus move lands you the first good hold on lurcher. A very basic and brilliant couple of moves! I really think having amazing conditions helped loads!

Tony has put some photos from the day on face book, which show quite clearly the sequence and the problem. I would get them up here but i have absolutely no idea how. (maybe someone who does could?)

Richie Crouch

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#11 Re: Bell Hagg project now a new 8a+
February 02, 2009, 08:17:21 pm
I will link them below but they only work for people on facebook afaik?













Beast  :-*

r-man

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#12 Re: Bell Hagg project now a new 8a+
February 02, 2009, 08:24:11 pm
I'm not on Facebook and I can see 'em.

Looks desperate! Nice one!

dave

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#13 Re: Bell Hagg project now a new 8a+
February 02, 2009, 08:29:01 pm
KING OF THE HAGG

Huffy

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#14 Re: Bell Hagg project now a new 8a+
February 02, 2009, 08:53:55 pm
Awesome Mike, remember that. I was taking undercut in roof right and crimpy sloper with left. left foot in slot and trying to pull through to starting (right) hold of lurcher. Great problem

Huffy, the word is that you did a problem called Tolerance near Bell Hagg. No one seems to know much about it though. Any details? And are there other problems on the same boulder?

yeah man, reply is on that thread.
« Last Edit: February 02, 2009, 09:11:48 pm by Huffy »

The Sausage

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#15 Re: Bell Hagg project now a new 8a+
February 03, 2009, 08:43:42 am
KING OF THE HAGG
KING OF THE HAGG

How would you like your crown sir? Hollow on the inside, or the outside?

dave

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#16 Re: Bell Hagg project now a new 8a+
February 03, 2009, 01:49:08 pm
hollow on the inside, or how would you get it on your head?

 

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