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Beastmaker (Read 228900 times)

Monolith

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#75 Re: Beastmaker
April 25, 2009, 03:05:57 pm
Good shit guys. Had first sesh on it last night and wasn't dissapointed. Looking forward to the 3000 edition coming out so I can take that leap to 8c. Seem to be pleatueing on 8b with the 2000 ;)

Also, I got on ok with the 45 degree slopes but heard rumours that keith did a double from middle two slopey pockets to the 45's! Can anyone confirm this disgusting rumour?

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#76 Re: Beastmaker
April 25, 2009, 03:57:11 pm
Quote from: beastmaker blog

So far, Ru Davies has 1 armed the small pockets on the bottom rung, effort Ru!
Lots of people have 1 armed the bottom rung as a drag or crimp.
Ned's mate Rich has 1 armed the 1 pad mono on the bottom rung! BEAST!
and Keith has transferred from the slopey pockets to the 45degree slopers and held the swing, no tricks, its just brick. Effort Bradbury!
the 35degree sloper has been 1 armed a fair bit too.
(i'll be creating a far better records page in coming weeks which people can upload record claims themselves)

Is that confirmation?

I would be a cheap skate and not bother buying a 3000 (not that i'll be climbing hard enough for it). Just sand the holds on your 2000 series

Monolith

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#77 Re: Beastmaker
April 25, 2009, 05:25:09 pm
Curiosity  got the better of me and had to text for confirmation. Yes it's all true how dismaying  :'(

Ben, I think my sarcasm for needing the next edition has been misconstrued! Nice one on post though.

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#78 Re: Beastmaker
April 25, 2009, 07:22:05 pm
Beastmaker 2000 is the new Powerball

Lets see what that Akis can do on a BM2K. Where does your "spearfishing" get you now, fatso?

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#79 Re: Beastmaker
April 25, 2009, 10:05:26 pm
silly me, i completely missed your sarcasm.. hehe..

I have had my beastmaker for about two weeks now but it isnt mounted..

Here is one of the awful problems of being young (now i am using sarcasm).. I have a deal with my mother that if I can keep my bedroom very tidy then i can mount it to a powerbar (see the campus board thread for that) and use it in my room, instead of mounting it above the garage doorway into the brick where my old fingerboard was.

So far I have amazed myself at how tidy my room is!  :thumbsup: But I have been fully bribed yet...  :(

tomrix

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#80 Re: Beastmaker
April 27, 2009, 10:00:20 am
Mine arrived this morning!!!!!  :thumbsup: But can't play until i get home from work! :thumbsdown:

tomrix

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#81 Re: Beastmaker
April 27, 2009, 01:25:37 pm
Secondly is mine the first beastmaker to wing it's way to the deepest darkest depths of East Anglia?!

village idiot

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#82 Re: Beastmaker
April 27, 2009, 04:27:17 pm
Quote
Secondly is mine the first beastmaker to wing it's way to the deepest darkest depths of East Anglia?!

Afraid not, one as been nestling in sunny southend-on-sea for the last couple of months!!

mctrials23

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#83 Re: Beastmaker
April 28, 2009, 04:04:42 pm
Had one in norwich for the last few months too.

Adam Lincoln

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#84 Re: Beastmaker
May 04, 2009, 09:49:17 pm
One Beastmaker now fully installed in Preston!

a dense loner

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#85 Re: Beastmaker
May 04, 2009, 10:04:09 pm
adam are you aware that a 12 year old girl received 70% burns from a sunbed?

Adam Lincoln

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#86 Re: Beastmaker
May 04, 2009, 10:06:29 pm
adam are you aware that a 12 year old girl received 70% burns from a sunbed?

Mines spray on so it fine  ;)

carlisle slapper

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#87 Re: Beastmaker
May 06, 2009, 01:36:22 pm
What is the general consensus from people who have 2000series these then?

I.E. is everyone with a 2000series on here happy with them/ getting sufficient use out of them?

any decent critical feedback positive or negative will be much appreciated,

I.E have they warped at all? (we thicknessed the back to try and negate this as much as possible)

Are the top crimpy slots too big/ out of sync with the board grade?

has anyone used the 1000series prototype at the works and found it too be good/ crap? is it a good transition into the 2000?

Crucially has anyone actually got any stronger/ noticed gains? (or is mine and Ned's board just magic)


also if anyone has any questions about how to get the most use out of their boards i'll try and answer them as best as possible

If anyone has problems mounting them (ooh suit you sir) i'll write an article with all the different ways you can mount your beastmaker (ooh matron)


I have Pm'ed Bubba with a bribe as i'd rather not SPAM SPAM SPAM SPAM, its just this is probably the best place to gather thoughts on the boards.

Dr T

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#88 Re: Beastmaker
May 06, 2009, 01:41:40 pm
have had mine for over a month now and can catagorially say I have experienced no strength change..
my not using it due to having a broken finger might have something to do with it...  :'(

Paul B

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#89 Re: Beastmaker
May 06, 2009, 01:45:00 pm
What is the general consensus from people who have 2000series these then?

I.E. is everyone with a 2000series on here happy with them/ getting sufficient use out of them?

any decent critical feedback positive or negative will be much appreciated,

I.E have they warped at all? (we thicknessed the back to try and negate this as much as possible)

Are the top crimpy slots too big/ out of sync with the board grade?

has anyone used the 1000series prototype at the works and found it too be good/ crap? is it a good transition into the 2000?

Crucially has anyone actually got any stronger/ noticed gains? (or is mine and Ned's board just magic)


also if anyone has any questions about how to get the most use out of their boards i'll try and answer them as best as possible

If anyone has problems mounting them (ooh suit you sir) i'll write an article with all the different ways you can mount your beastmaker (ooh matron)


I have Pm'ed Bubba with a bribe as i'd rather not SPAM SPAM SPAM SPAM, its just this is probably the best place to gather thoughts on the boards.


The only thing I'll say, which I'm sure you're already aware is that when mounted at home they're very tricky to warm up for. I don't think there's anything you can do about it specifically but I do wonder if a 1000 would make it easier, for myself at least.

BB

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#90 Re: Beastmaker
May 06, 2009, 02:13:30 pm
I agree with Paul, but i thought it was just me being weak!

I'm right at the bottom end of the grade level for the 2000 and so I'm getting very little use out of the bottom rung.

I'm only concentrating on repeaters and dead hangs for front 3, front 2 and middle 2 so far, but I'm finding I can now stick holds I struggled with 2 months ago.

I feel like there's loads more I can get out of the beasmaker once I start to use more of the holds, but a gradual, progressive approach will probably serve me better from an injury avoidance point of view.

Paul B

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#91 Re: Beastmaker
May 06, 2009, 02:17:10 pm
forgot to mention that while I was using it, improvement on Back 2 and Mid 2 was very rapid. I went from barely being able to hang on my back 2 on the biggest slots to just about managing a full set of repeaters in about 4 weeks.

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#92 Re: Beastmaker
May 06, 2009, 02:22:20 pm
forgot to mention that while I was using it, improvement on Back 2 and Mid 2 was very rapid. I went from barely being able to hang on my back 2 on the biggest slots to just about managing a full set of repeaters in about 4 weeks.

How long after this did your hand go into meltdown?  :-\

Funny you should mention the warming up thing as I've only used the one at The Works to warm up on and found it to be really good for this purpose. Odd.

Paul B

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#93 Re: Beastmaker
May 06, 2009, 02:29:36 pm
It wasnt caused by the BM directly I simply thought I had gained some open handing strength, which of course I have, just not enough to drag the holds on Powerhumps it would seem. Well enough to do that once but no more. Another period of fingerboarding and this injury could no doubt have been avoided.

tomrix

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#94 Re: Beastmaker
May 06, 2009, 02:30:08 pm
Got mine last Monday (thanks) and have used it a few times. Although i may be imagining it because i doubt i have made significant strength gains in such a short period but it feels like i can use the holds more comfortably specifically the 35 degree slopers.

The wood and design is a god send as well. Extremely skin friendly which is ideal for my terrible skin, i can at last have a good session  with no skin related ill effects!

I definitely agree with Paul B. If you have the 2000 as a standalone training tool there isn't much on the board to warm up on. Luckily i have a woodie in my garage so i mince around on big jugs :P before hitting the beastmaker!!

carlisle slapper

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#95 Re: Beastmaker
May 06, 2009, 03:18:04 pm
Cool, any other thoughts?

Warm ups:
The best way to warm up on it is to get an old chair and put it roughly2-3feet behind the board and stick a leg on it for your first hangs (with your other leg guarding against un expected pings (if you only have 1 leg this may be difficult, and a hard decision between warming up well or falling on your back might have to be made)),

I go 20 degree sloper, sets to: 1 hand jug 1 hand big slots , to dragging the slots, then crimping them, after a bit of a rest and shake of the arms i then move on to pockets front, middle, back, and then onto the 35 degree slopers.

I then sack the session off if i feel bad on these after a few reps. Or get crushing if it feels like i just about only need one arm (personal reference only)

I'd agree if your only using 50% of the board in general sessions it'll be harder to warm up on, so the chair/pulley/bungee option would help with this best.
I generally allow 30minutes to get fully warm and recruited/ to expect some power to start arriving in my arms, before that i'm quite patient.

Ideally the adaptions on the board should directly translate to holds strength outdoors if the holds replicate similar hand positions to what has been trained. If this is not occuring look at your most common grip positions outdoors, reduce them down and see where the power is coming from (quick test is to stand on some scales and see how much weight diff grips can take on 1 arm)
I intend to pikey a good greys anatomy diagram and explain where the power from each grip comes from (whilst consulting a specialist of course), but basically the different grips train different sections of the flexor digitorum, with crimping mainly being digitorum sublimis and open handing being digitorum profundus, (http://www.ganfyd.org/index.php?title=Flexor_digitorum_superficialis) more on this later (on the beastmaker site) and when i've actually found some papers outlining the differences (my initial research hasn't yielded much new info)

Initial gains should be fast due to nerve adaption (Horst,2003; will get my other/ better references when i get them off my other PC) however (from memory) this is a riskier period as the rest of the body takes time to adapt, (blood flow to tendon sheaths etc) I.E its better to cement a gain for a few weeks to allow for adaption than to try and push onto the harder grips. i learn't this myself the hard way when i tried to back to the slopey pockets twice in a row, i'm now only just getting onto the bottom normal pockets again for 1 or 2 hangs before jumping back onto the bigger pockets (4 months on)



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#96 Re: Beastmaker
May 06, 2009, 03:38:37 pm
Noticed improvement in open hand strength quite quickly doing three/front two finger drags on the 35 slopers, doing repeaters with this is one of the best exercises on the board imo.

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#97 Re: Beastmaker
May 06, 2009, 03:41:27 pm
Been Using the works board twice a week for the last 3 weeks whilst I've been nursing an A2 injury better.  Defiantly seen some gains as I've gone from being only just able to hang the 45's with nestle to being able to do full 2 sets of 7x3 repeaters with a nestle.  Also mid 2 strength has improved as I've gone from using normal pockets in the middle to using 1 pad pockets on the bottom again for 2x 7x3 sets.  Seen smaller gains on front 2 and back 2 also.  Going to continue using the board for 1 more week then allow 3 weeks for adaption before prioritising again.

I should add that the boards are amazing!  Really comfy holds that dont damage your skin and well thougt out in terms of hold placement.  Any tips on transfering to hanging the 45's without a nestle would be much appreciated!
« Last Edit: May 06, 2009, 04:10:51 pm by stom »

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#98 Re: Beastmaker
May 06, 2009, 04:22:32 pm
Been Using the 2000 board 4 times a week since 5 week.
First 3 week essentially doing repetears (5 sec up - 10 sec down, 2 minute rest , 5 minutes rest x 2) on 7 different kind of prehension.
Following 2 weeks doing deadhangs on the same prehension (35 degree slopers, back 2, font 2, mid 2, index mono, pinky mono, middle mono).
Feeling strong especially on mono's.
No classical skin issues experienced with other commercial boards whit this kind of overload.
In my opinion the best board ever tried

carlisle slapper

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#99 Re: Beastmaker
May 06, 2009, 05:19:23 pm
@ Stom For transitioning onto pure 45 repeaters, use 2 thumbs rather than nestle, then 1 thumb, then things should start happening.

@Gianluca, glad to see your board arrived ok  :) , i'll put your comments next to the other 9a climbers and world cup winners who have said similar, (Malc, Jerome, Earl)

also i take it you have been doing  5 sec up and 10 down on the various monos? have you tried repeaters (7 seconds hang, 3 seconds rest, 6/7 repetitions?)
if so which do you prefer? From the looks of it 5up-10down could be a good way of progressing onto full repeaters on index/ pinky monos for me, as currently i need weight off on the 1 pad ones to complete a set of repeaters.

cheers for the feedback this is helping quite a bit, and it isn't purely a back slapping exercise.

Unfortunately we can't do much about production capacity until mid-late June (approx 30 boards a week) as we are unwilling to compromise on quality, also it'd be hard to work Dave at slave labour rates, seeing as though he flashed captains of crush No2 and can pick up a 8X4 foot sheet of 1inch thick ply by pinching it in one hand (try it) I'd rather he had time to chill out, make the odd brew and enjoy his job.

Also the wood is FSC approved/ sourced (i checked up on this, hence the logo appearing on the site)

 

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