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[Lancashire] [Various] [6C - 7B+] Various (with video) (Read 136790 times)

tomtom

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Nice one R-Man - that looks crimpytastic!

r-man

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Cheers. Get down there before the snow goes!

Here's one from Cadshaw, the main line at the riverblocks - stumped me last time I tried, but some new beta made it work. Grade could be 7B or 7C, the start is on big angular holds and feels a bit like climbing indoor volumes, but I'll wait and see what repeaters think.

Copernicus - 7C
Sitstart the central block from hands clamped on the aretes.



There is also a nasty crimp project going up the right arete, if anyone feels really gnarly. And one up the centre for someone both gnarly and tall.

GCW

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Isn't that just a bad sequence for the crack?   ;)

That arete project is nasty.

r-man

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Isn't that just a bad sequence for the crack?   ;)

I assume you're joking, but in case you can't quite see from the video - the block on the left is out. I think "climb this rock, not the other one" is fair enough. ;)

GCW

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I'll need to head back sometime once I've got all this damned running out of the way.  Still need to get back on my Red Wall link up/ arete project/ Mighty Mouse......

r-man

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There's also potential for a few problems on the wall left of the riverblocks. I cleaned off most of the vegetation from the finishing ledge - could do with a bit more effort, and then the wall itself needs a good once over with a stiff brush. Probably easy stuff to the left and a couple of hard problems on the right.

rginns

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I'll need to head back sometime once I've got all this damned running out of the way. 

You've been using that excuse for a year now... ;)

GCW

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And the curving overlap and the direct through it on l'autre mur rouge across the river.  Would certainly go, I only tried it briefly a year or two back.

I'll need to head back sometime once I've got all this damned running out of the way. 

You've been using that excuse for a year now... ;)

Yeah I know.  2013 is the year of POWER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  Maybe.

GCW

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Just seen this set on Flickr.  Interesting.

rginns

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And the curving overlap and the direct through it on l'autre mur rouge across the river.  Would certainly go, I only tried it briefly a year or two back.

I'll need to head back sometime once I've got all this damned running out of the way. 
You've been using that excuse for a year now... ;)
Yeah I know.  2013 is the year of POWER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  Maybe.
:lol:

L'autre mur is that what we were looking at last year?

andy_e

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Whoa, abandoned mine bouldering!

Probes

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Just seen this set on Flickr.  Interesting.

Coel  :blink:  I assume thats pretty much in the stream by the problems robins just done... looks like it from memory.. Gives me summit to do with the nephews when they next come to stay!!
There's loads of caves/mines on the side of winter hill too, just hard to find and semi blocked up. There's a website somewhere by Fred Dibner from the 80s... when they used to go exploring in them.

Wonder if they dry up in summer    :-\     Can have our own Pilgramages then  :whistle:

GCW

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L'autre mur is that what we were looking at last year?

Yes, good line.

r-man

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Just seen this set on Flickr.  Interesting.

Coel  :blink:  I assume thats pretty much in the stream by the problems robins just done...

Yeah, that's just 50m downstream from the riverblocks.

There's also an opening at the base of the main quarry, possibly at the bottom of the route Salamander (hazy memory, this is from years ago). I took a few flash photos to try and work out what was down there and it looked like a big space, but I know nothing about caving, so didn't risk crawling in.

fatneck

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Parbold.... Wasn't sure where to put this but thought here was as good as anywhere!

Went here for the first time last night and have to say we had a great time! Did everything on the main wall between us and had a chat about the grades... We thought the Fundamentalist and Mentalist Direct were thoroughly excellent and well worth the trip alone!

Consensus on the grades for what it's worth (I don't climb three 7a's in a session, ever);

Vesuvius - 6b+
Vesuvius Base Camp - 6b
Fundamentalist LH - 6b+
Fundamentalist - 6c
Mentalist Direct - 7b/+

I also cleaned a new line on the right wall which got sent by Alec on the night which we felt was worth mentioning as well. No name or grade yet (prob >7a) but worth doing by all accounts. Some shady phone photos of Alec on the FA...







Pretty cool moves and also scope for dynos on that wall as well. The project right of Mentalist Direct got looked at but noone got on it, think it'll be h.a.r.d.

r-man

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Nice one! Keen to hear name and grade for the new thing. Does it top out, or stop at a jug?

I agree about grades. It's quite possible they have all cleaned up a lot since the FA. I thought the Fundamentalist problems were more like low 6's, but good fun. Mentalist Direct caused me problems, so I wasn't sure if it was hard or just tricky. Perhaps 7B+ is fair. Did you dyno from low, or crossover using the poor sidepull?

fatneck

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Alec reckoned around 7a when I pressed him. As for the name, Parboiled should do it! It doesn't top out but with a bit of cleaning (and plenty of pads) I reckon it would and would be pretty good, if spicy...

Mentalist Direct went with a big move with the left hand ignoring the sidepull. Alec found putting his left foot out wide and dropping his knee a bit the key...

I'm quite psyched to return but don't think anyone else is!!

r-man

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Good stuff. Parbold might actually be a decent place to escape the heat in summer, providing the midges don't settle in. The new problem looks decent.

Sounds like a massive move on Mentalist Direct! I considered it as a dyno, but didn't see it as a foot on move! I did it like this:


GCW

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I ignored the sidepull and was trying to dyno/ lank it. No surprise there then.

fatneck

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Owen and Jay (both 6ft4) didn't get it on the night but definitely thought it would go as a dyno. I think Alec is taller than he looks but his foot definitely came off as he hit the bottom groove bit of the hold before sorting his feet out and making a strenuous match... Should have got a vid...

Midges were there in force last week, reckon it would be midge hell later in the year as I don't reckon it gets much breeze in there?!

GCW

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Lancashire Lanks Series re-edit, part one:


GCW

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r-man

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Just a heads up that I broke the low RF foothold on Brian Jacques recently. Woops! It was wobbling and I thought maybe it was just a rock, so I tugged at it and it snapped. The small bit left over was a flat crumbly edge - and the whole foothold turned out to be not actually attached to anything. So I've pulled away the crumbly bits and tidied it up.

I did Brian Jacques again, and the first move is a little harder, but I'm not sure it affects the grade. There's a small edge just left of the crack that works for the RF. You'll need decent edges on your shoes though.

Jump arete should still be fine, it's not too hard to get into a jumping position with right toe in the big crack foothold.

Rivers Of Blood now isn't possible by GCW's sequence. Sorry GCW! (But hey, at least you've already done it.) I had a few goes before skin and midges stopped play, and I'm pretty sure it's still possible without that foothold. Good problem.

Seems like that wall has been getting some attention recently. Lots of chalk. And despite the tree loss, it still stays dry in the rain.


GCW

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Fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck!

GCW

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Did you try Rivers of Blood?  I was tempted to give it 7c anyway because it was really hard.  I guess now I can give it 8a+....

 

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