[rginns]

Went to Wilton 1 tonight to check out Snakey B and Baby Fae. I managed to do Baby Fae after a bit of faffing and can confirm it as a quality eliminate, but getting into the overlap on SB felt hard. Good problems though

[GCW]

As promised, a shit vid:




Also a shit topo.  R-man and clm, can you clarify the lines (or lack thereof)?



1.  Snakey Left Hand  7a+
Sit start on ramp using 1 and 2, LH to 6, RH 5.  RH 9, LH onto 10.  Then pull for 12 and victory.

2.  Snakey B  6c+
Sit start on ramp using 1 and 2.  LH to 6, RH 5.  LH crimp 9, RH undercut 7.  Gain 12 and do a little dance.

3.  Snakey B as originally envisioned 7a/+
aka what kinda fucked sequence do you call that, Lanky Twat?
Sit start 1 and 2.  RH 4, LH 5.  Weird move to get both hands on 8, the use 7 and 9 for all they're worth to get 12.

4.  Snakey B Right Hand 6c/7a
Sit start 1 and 2.  RH 4, LH 5.  Get and match 8.  Larn out for 13 and finish along ledge.

5.  Baby Fae 6b+
Sit start 1 and 2.  Gain and match 6, using 3 if you need it.  LF to 3, and slap to 11.

6.  Thulsa Doom  7a+
Traverse ledge to 13.  Reachy move to 8.  Use this and 7, 9, 10 to get victory bivvy ledge 11.

7.  Low traverse ?grade
Errr, a low traverse.

Now then- problems 1, 3 and 4 are fairly independent of each other.  Whilst being the natural way to do it (ie Easiest), 2 isn't that independent from 1.  Just my 2p worth.

[rginns]

prob 3: I remember seeing a pic of SB on SLB I think and always thought it used 8 (as opposed to SB prob 2) and for me it didn't feel too hard to get both hands on it although it seems more logical to just side it with the RH, then 9,7,12.

For me, problem 2 is to squeezed in/eliminate to make sense

hmm. You make SB RH look easy, G.

[r-man]

Yes, they all look about right. Would have been nice to see lines, rather than numbered holds, as for the most part, that's what these problems are. But perhaps the numbered holds make things clearer.

The orginal plan with Snakey B was to go all the way up to join Black Mamba, which is why I didn't head out right. But then I got to what became the finish, looked up, looked down, and decided going further really wasn't necessary...

I didn't use the crimp because I didn't see it. Very funky moves with just the overlap to battle.

Though I wish it didn't exist, problem 2 can't really be eliminate as it's the easiest way up!

The low traverses are both good. 6C left to right, and 6C+ right to left.

[r-man]

Some old footage of Oli on the low traverses. (At double speed)

[GCW]

I tried it very briefly like that, but the good foot ledge is in poor shape and crumbling.  Another one in need of repair, I suppose.

[GCW]

I didn't use the crimp because I didn't see it. Very funky moves with just the overlap to battle.

Went back today and did Snakey B.  The crimp actually makes things harder, and I did it after a few herniating tries by (what I assume is) the original sequence.  Tricksy, and I'd definitely go with 7a- harder that the 6c+ variant by a way.  Also nice as it's independent.  Thus:

3.  Snakey B as originally envisioned 7a/+
aka what kinda fucked sequence do you call that, Lanky Twat?
Sit start 1 and 2.  RH 4, LH 5.  Weird move to get both hands on 8, the use 7 and 9 for all they're it's worth to get 12.

Unfortunately my incredible flab power was too much for the puny rock.  Sorry R-man.

[r-man]

Oh no! Glue?

[GCW]

The bit that is left is OK, so if it stabilises it'll be OK.
The bit that came off was held on by that typical sandy stuff.  I guess you could clan both surfaces and get Nik the Hold Man^TM to put it back.  Hopefully it'll be OK without though, but the surface may need to be sealed.

Raaaaah!

[r-man]

Ah well, if there's still something there, maybe a bit of a brush, then some superglue?

Anyway, good effort getting it done. Going back for Thulsa Doom?

[GCW]

I will do soon.  As you can tell from teh vid it started raining as I did it.
I assume you didn't use the broken hold on Thulsa?

[r-man]

No, I just went left from the undercuts and crimp. Can't remember if I used the crimp though.

[GCW]

Sorry peeps, but tonight I broke hold 10.   It used to be a half pad, 2/3 finger sidepull.  Now it's a decent flat hold and this means that Snakey B LH is now a fair bit easier, probably soft 7a.  Ooops.

[andy_e]

stay away from that piece of wall before you bring it all crashing down around you!

[GCW]

As I'd failed on my Healey Nab project I had a wander around doing other stuff.  I think these are new, but I'll wait for R-Man confirmation.

1.  I did a sit start of a pillar thing between Slaptasm and Titanium Traverse.  From a sitter on a good left hand sidepull and avoiding the left block, pull on and make a hard right slap then up the pillar more easily.  About font 6a+.

2.. Sit start right of Andi's Mantel on the flake- not behind, just on top.  Go straight to the top (I used a left heel).  About 6a but "morpho".
 

[r-man]

They sound new to me. Good stuff.

[GCW]

Shit vid of above (shit) problems:

[GCW]

Forgot to post before, now that the project is done.

A few new things from 16/4/10.
Right of Escaping Jam is the Traverse mentioned previously.  There's a nice 6a+ dyno from the big hand hold to the sloper break, feet on face only.  The same problem as a mantel/rock is about 6a, both good.
I did Phat Haendel without the Love Handle pinch, at 6c.  Almost did the dyno from undercuts too- 7a maybe?
And of course the last thing is now David Vetter.

[r-man]

Did a couple of new things at Egerton. No video as battery ran out. I saw a deer as well, which was an unexpected pleasure. Are deer regular in this area?

Hindsight 7B/7B+
Just right of Broken Jokes arete, start hands right of ledge crack. Traverse left along the slotted seam and pull up to jugs past the crack.

Beta - gain lh short slot, rh long slot. Lh pinch. Rf to good foothold, lf to low ledge out left. Rh drop in to short slot. Lh to good hold just above ledge. Finish easily.

Blue Mushroom Warrior 7B+
The arete right of Broken Jokes, with a crux move swinging to a high edge on the face. (The left foothold in the crack is out.) Make a few more moves to finish on a good high notch.

Beta - crux seemed to work best with pointy shoes on tiny edge rather than smearing.

Here's the old video of Broken Jokes, to show the lines. Hindsight hand traverses the footholds used on the Broken Jokes finish. Blue Mushroom Warrior is the arete to the right, with the combative fungi graffiti just about visible.

[GCW]

Interesting.  I tried the low traverse L-R, on those crappy low edges/undercuts, and was making some progress.  Last time I went Broken Jokes popped something in my wrist so I never went back.  Have to go back for another recce whilst it's dry.

As an aside, I broke the decent footholds off of Bob On at Stronstrey last night but then did it with more tenuous feet:

[GCW]

Yesterday I had a wander around Lower Montcliffe.  I didn't have long, so I only did Maid in Stone which is a good problem.  I managed to get a sequence on Dinosaur Adventure 3D- anyone else think this is harder than font 6c+?  Top of if needs weeding though.

[andy_e]

Stop breaking holds! 

[r-man]

Summat at Jumbles last week.

[Jim]

that lass looks strong!

[GCW]

Yeah, but is she dead fit?