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[Lancashire] [Various] [6C - 7B+] Various (with video) (Read 136596 times)

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#25 Re: Lancs additions (video)
August 18, 2009, 12:21:06 pm
Yes, thats why I thought the place name seemed familiar.

Is that Binks?
It is indeed.

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#26 Re: Lancs additions (video)
September 10, 2009, 10:28:17 pm
Had a bumble up to Cadshaw today and repeated Brian Jacques, one of R-Meister's 7as.  I used the more technical sequence, which required my particular talents.  Worth a look if you're a local.

R-man:


Lankster:

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#27 Re: Lancs additions (video)
September 14, 2009, 11:25:52 pm
Did a few things at Stronstrey on Saturday and today.  Love Handle, I went with the other hand to THE pinch, easier but it just seemed logical- sorry R-man.
Wurzealous is good too, prety keen to head back for Mirth of the Ducks.


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#28 Re: Lancs additions (video)
September 15, 2009, 12:30:46 am
Enjoying your Lancs Lanks series. Keep livin' the quarried dream. I agree, your way of doing Love Handle makes more sense and makes the problems more independant. I shall await the third glorious HD installment with much antici





pation. Will the tall lad conquer the tall arete? Will the ducks be most amused? Will Stronstrey be besieged by hordes of pad-backed people? I know the answer to the last question, anyway.



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#29 Re: Lancs additions (video)
September 15, 2009, 11:43:06 am
Enjoying your Lancs Lanks series. Keep livin' the quarried dream. I agree, your way of doing Love Handle makes more sense and makes the problems more independant. I shall await the third glorious HD installment with much antici

pation. Will the tall lad conquer the tall arete? Will the ducks be most amused? Will Stronstrey be besieged by hordes of pad-backed people? I know the answer to the last question, anyway.

Nice rhetoric.
Not sure if the pad-backed-packers will be invading, but the question on everyones lips is whether the itinerants will be making a return this year...? Believe it or not there was a family living at Stronstrey last year...(!) It was a pretty well insulated hut - when they returned with a dog, they weren't that happy really!

Ignore the bearded fellow, he's an 'acquaintance'!

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#30 Re: Lancs additions (video)
September 15, 2009, 01:14:51 pm
Haha, that's brilliant!

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#31 Re: Lancs additions (video)
September 15, 2009, 01:16:45 pm
Had a bumble up to Cadshaw today and repeated Brian Jacques, one of R-Meister's 7as.  I used the more technical sequence, which required my particular talents.  Worth a look if you're a local.



im loving the popcorn

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#32 Re: Lancs additions (video)
September 15, 2009, 01:31:30 pm

Believe it or not there was a family living at Stronstrey last year...(!) It was a pretty well insulated hut - when they returned with a dog, they weren't that happy really!


I think my mate got bitten by that dog  :lol:
I laughed when he told me too  ;D

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#33 Re: Lancs additions (video)
September 15, 2009, 01:54:29 pm

Believe it or not there was a family living at Stronstrey last year...(!) It was a pretty well insulated hut - when they returned with a dog, they weren't that happy really!


I think my mate got bitten by that dog  :lol:
I laughed when he told me too  ;D

Truly one of the weirdest Lancs quarry experiences I've had for sure! :shrug:

Had a bumble up to Cadshaw today and repeated Brian Jacques, one of R-Meister's 7as.  I used the more technical sequence, which required my particular talents.  Worth a look if you're a local.
im loving the popcorn

agreed, it was a good touch that  8)

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#34 Re: Lancs additions (video)
September 15, 2009, 06:51:38 pm
Did canard today, we think 7a is probably about right.  Worthwhile prow thing, definitely feels highball despite its diminutive size.  Take 2 mats. 
Wurzealous is a bit generous at 7a on further consideration.  Nik flashed them both (beast etc). 

I've modified the Stronstrey video (above in this thread) to include the new footage.  For those that can't be bothered watching all of it, fast forward to 1:50 for the Mirth of the Ducks.

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#35 Re: Lancs additions (video)
December 03, 2009, 02:27:18 am
Pete Reynolds has put together a guide to eliminates at Tonacliffe Quarry - an esoteric venue near Rochdale. There are problems here up to V7-ish.

Cheers to Pete for getting it done - he's been on the other side of the planet for years, but recently nipped back for a wedding, and managed to get a few quarry photos to make the guide with. Now that's dedication!

 :great:

Edit: I'm trying to upload it to the ukbouldering vimeo page, but having problems. Watch this space.
« Last Edit: December 03, 2009, 02:37:39 am by r-man »

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#36 Re: Lancs additions (video)
December 03, 2009, 10:25:20 pm
Thanks to GCW's uploading skills, here it is http://www.vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/file:5575

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#37 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 12, 2010, 02:20:36 am
Slim pickings in the quarries this Christmas, but despite the snow I managed to climb a few new things. Video on its way, but for now:



New things (white lines in pic):

Wilton 3
Blind Flurry, 7A - A direct sitstart to The Square. Without deviating to the good crimp out right, climb straight up.
Square-Crow, 6C - Sitstart at good holds as for before, but get a toe-lock in the break and reach the good edge out out right. Continue up the Square.
Common or Garden Squiggle, 6C+ - Hang the juggy ledge and power upwards. No footholds beneath the start block.
Nostriloquy, 6B+ - Climb the nostril feature.
Wilton 2
Swiss Dreams, 6C - Slap up the leaning face from sitting. Hands on the top block only. Use the footblock no higher than the obvious ledge.

These blocks all seem to stay dry after snow, topouts aside.

Over at Brownstones, I climbed a short wall on the far right of the Long Back Wall. This must have been done, but bizarrely even Geoff H hasn't claimed it. Well, someone has to...   ;)

Old Tricks, 6B - The technical wall, to jugs. Rock left on to the ledge to escape.



« Last Edit: January 12, 2010, 02:28:21 am by r-man »

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#38 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 12, 2010, 03:57:45 am
How does that relate to P's Pod?

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#39 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 12, 2010, 12:38:29 pm
I can't see P's Pod on your wiki, but the description on UKC says P's Pod is the crack left of Dave's Route. Since this is Hank, I assume P's Pod must actually be the crack left of Hank, if it is a crack (which its name suggests).

There are also two other walls mentioned on UKC - SF2 and Midge Attack. Since these both talk of a loose wall, and are both about the same grade (5/5+), I think these are two claims on the chossy looking wall just left of the tree.

The problem I did is the wall between Hank and Dave's Route, finishing at half-height jugs.

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#40 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 12, 2010, 12:55:02 pm
They are all in the PDF Vimeo download.
I'm not sure what Midge Attack is, but SF2 was done years ago.  P's Pod is supposed to be between Dave's Route and Hank, but was referred to as a crack- unless those sideways flakes are thought of as a crack?   :shrug:

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#41 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 12, 2010, 01:32:32 pm
No crack on that wall. I'm guessing P's Pod is the crack to the left of Hank, and the description was a bit muddled. Plus, I'd be surprised if Geoff and Adam had skipped that crack.

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#42 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 12, 2010, 02:30:27 pm
I did Blind Flurry starting on the far left under pasquill arete thing, traversing right on the small crimps and then going up to the start of the square. I thought it about 6c.

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#43 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 12, 2010, 02:35:33 pm

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#44 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 12, 2010, 02:46:23 pm
Blind Flurry is a direct start, eliminating the start hold of The Square. If you traversed to the start of The Square, you probably did Square-Crow? Or did you go direct?

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#45 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 12, 2010, 03:05:45 pm
The toe-lock bit in Square-Crow is a bit misleading, you can climb this any way you want. I just though it would be helpful to mention it. Also, starting further left doesn't really add anything, and I couldn't be bothered, though I remember trying it that way with you in the past.

Anyhow, you'll see what I mean when the video is finished converting.

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#46 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 12, 2010, 07:25:53 pm
Finally got the export settings right.  ::)

Click through to vimeo for HD...




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#47 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 13, 2010, 04:30:09 am
Just to keep everything cross referenced, there's a new Stronstrey Topo and discussion thread now available.

If you spot any errors please let me know.

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#48 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 16, 2010, 12:50:40 am
good work chaps  :great: Happy New Year

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#49 Re: Lancs additions (video)
February 09, 2010, 04:58:39 pm
Damp day today, but I've added a new traverse at Stronstrey.  It's on the wall right of Escaping Jam, starting on a big flat hold and traversing right to finish matched in the farthest right crack.
There's only 2 awkward bits, the first being a neat sequence between the first 2 cracks which I think will be harder if you're smaller than me ( and miles easier if you've got more wingspan).
I think it's about font 6c, but it was quite damp so I will await a second opinion.

Shit phone vid, sorry:


 

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