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[Lancashire] [Various] [6C - 7B+] Various (with video) (Read 136088 times)

r-man

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I've just spent an enjoyable week revisiting old projects in the quarries, and done a few new problems which some lancs based people might be interested in. Hope you enjoy the video - no HD here though, just footage from an assortment of phones and stills cameras.



New stuff:
1.Superflea - 7B - Harcles Hill
2.Barmfingers - 6C - Healey Nab
3.Double Dutch - 7B+ - Healey Nab
4.Fairweather Slapper - 7A+ - Greenbooth
5.The Glass Ceiling - 7A - Greenbooth
6.Whodunnit - 7B - Ashworth Moor

I've also knocked up a guide to Ashworth Moor and Greenbooth: http://vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/file:1655 - Both these crags are between Ramsbottom and Rochdale. Worthwhile if you live nearby.

Get to it, red rosers. Double Dutch in particular is fantastic.
« Last Edit: March 16, 2010, 09:25:30 am by shark, Reason: title protocol »

andy_e

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#1 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 06, 2009, 06:56:10 pm
it says it's a private video! no footage of jumbles stuff?

r-man

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#2 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 06, 2009, 06:57:29 pm
Fixed. No, didn't do anything at Jumbles. Went to Ashworth instead.

Monolith

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#3 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 06, 2009, 07:04:39 pm
Robin, what's that piece of music over Rock This Country? An amazing song...


GCW

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#4 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 06, 2009, 07:04:57 pm
Double Dutch- Bugger, I didn't think of going left.  I was being too pure and going direct :lol:  I'll have to go back now.
Did you try the traverse?  Grade?

EDIT:
Just seen this:
Quote
The grade is for getting stood up, not lanking to the top, so to earn your rockover
kudos, get both feet on the slab, then go with left hand to the top.

 :-\
« Last Edit: January 06, 2009, 07:13:49 pm by GCW »

r-man

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#5 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 06, 2009, 07:15:42 pm
Monolith - it's Solid Air, by John Martyn. Seek out the eponymous album, it's incredible.

GCW - I tried going right, still an obvious hard challenge definitely. As for the traverse, I tried briefly, and it will be a great piece of steep climbing, but there is one key hold crumbling away. This needs stabilising with resin or something. I had to leave it as it was too soft to pull on with. I reckon the obvious challenge is starting up Barmfingers and traversing left to finish via the jug on the arete. This looked like around 7b/7b+. Probably harder to do the reverse as shown in the topo.

Also, try the double undercut to top dyno right of Double Dutch. I tickled the top, and it will probably be about 7a+/7b - 7a+ probably if you can do it from the low footholds. Might suit you...
« Last Edit: January 06, 2009, 07:27:49 pm by r-man »

GCW

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#6 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 06, 2009, 07:17:48 pm
As for the traverse, I tried briefly, and it will be a great piece of steep climbing, but there is one key hold crumbling away.

I meant Titanium Trav.  I assume you're talking about the traverse of those 2 walls.
I may go and have a look this week, should be dry now.

r-man

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#7 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 06, 2009, 07:24:34 pm
Ah - sorry, didn't try. I got sucked in to my little corner, then it got dark.

...But if you (or anyone) can find some way of stabilising the hold on the steep wall, that would be brilliant. I'd love to climb it.


Quote
The grade is for getting stood up, not lanking to the top, so to earn your rockover
kudos, get both feet on the slab, then go with left hand to the top.

 :-\

Haha, I was thinking of you...  ;) That rock is incredibly slippy, getting stood up is amazingly difficult.
« Last Edit: January 06, 2009, 07:29:53 pm by r-man »

GCW

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#8 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 06, 2009, 07:28:47 pm
...But if you (or anyway) can find some way of stabilising the hold on the steep wall, that would be brilliant. I'd love to climb it.

I'll have a look.  The rock there is a little brittle.

Scouse D

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#9 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 07, 2009, 11:50:47 am
What's the Jumbles stuff?
My Missus' family live in Bury and we often visit the Jumbles. I've had a nosey around the quarry, seem to remember some likely looking lines.

r-man

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#10 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 07, 2009, 12:42:12 pm
There are a few good looking lines, including one that looks as though it might be a fingery dyno/standup to a lovely jug, then a highball finish. They might need some cleaning first. I've only had a look round - I went down after hearing that one of the Geoffs had developed the place, but I'm not sure what has been climbed.

The best stuff is over to the right hand side of the quarry - from the car park, walk down the steps. Continue past the quarry a little bit, and turn left up the first path. This takes you to the far end of the quarry, which is better than trudging through the swamp.

andy_e

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#11 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 07, 2009, 12:43:18 pm
sorry

Scouse D

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#12 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 07, 2009, 03:12:13 pm
Word cheers Robin. Just been looking at your site, seems like there's plenty to go at around the area. Wheres' the best venue near Bury?

andy_e

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#13 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 07, 2009, 04:31:50 pm
Word cheers Robin. Just been looking at your site, seems like there's plenty to go at around the area. Wheres' the best venue near Bury?

Brownstones is probably 30/40 mins drive from bury itself and is the best venue in the area, otherwise in terms of being close to bury there's not that much that's amazing, or has a lot of problems, but harcles hill has some good problems, as do ashworth and pinfold.

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#14 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 07, 2009, 07:10:01 pm
And Blackstone Edge isn't too far either, and well worth a look.

r-man

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#15 Re: Lancs additions (video)
January 07, 2009, 07:18:23 pm
Yep, Brownstones is the best. Loads of stuff there.
http://www.vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/file:768

Or head east 30/40 min past Rochdale to Blackstone. Also good, but go in a dry period as it can be green. http://www.vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/file:767

Or northwest 50 min to Longridge for overhanging stuff.
http://craigylongridge.wetpaint.com/?t=anon

Other places have good problems, but from Bury they are a bit of a trek for what they currently have to offer.

Venues nearer Bury are mostly minor, or still not properly developed (it's a slowly ongoing mission) but Superflea at Harcles Hill is good, and Ashworth/Greenbooth offer fun esoterica.

r-man

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#16 Re: Lancs additions (video)
April 20, 2009, 05:26:57 pm
Did a few new things over Easter. Best of these is a great lip trav on Lark Hill at Holcombe Moor.

Danger Zone - 7B - From low jugs in the bottom break, reach the lip and traverse left below the middle break to reach the jug on the end face. From here, climb straight up.






Grid Ref is SD767177. I approached from the west (Crowthorn School) and parked at the top of the road, just past the gate. From here, a 15min wander along the path leads to a stream that splits the hills. Danger Zone is on the hillside a little way before the stream. Gets shade during the afternoon (don't know about morning).
____

Also climbed the wall left of Brian Jacques at Cadshaw:

Mighty Mouse
- 7A+ - Sitstart from the lowest edges and climb to a good break.



____

At Brownstones, I climbed a couple of things that as far as I know haven't been done, though they turned out not to be as hard as I thought they might.

Idle Thumbs - 7A+ - Left of Groundhog is a corner. Climb the tight wall between flakes and the corner, with one hard move.
Knahrl - 7A - Sitstart the forked crack of Knah to reach the jug. Crack holds only!




andy_e

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#17 Re: Lancs additions (video)
April 20, 2009, 08:34:56 pm
Good effort robin. Always wondered if there was anything on that side of holcombe moor!

GCW

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#18 Re: Lancs additions (video)
April 20, 2009, 08:37:55 pm
I'm sure Geoff H did Idle Thumbs years ago and declared it "6b".  Noone else has doen it though :lol:

r-man

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#19 Re: Lancs additions (video)
June 17, 2009, 04:07:13 pm
Sam Anderton has been developing a limestone crag in Clitheroe (not far from Longridge). There look to be some decent highballs. I think there is more than shown in the topo below - he mentioned another problem called Bing V7, and some easy problems round the corner. A thick pad and spotter are recommended.





r-man

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#20 Re: Lancs additions (video)
August 12, 2009, 12:22:19 am
Some more new lancs things. A few at Stronstrey, best of which is a great highball prow:



And under the bridge at Egerton, a fantastic barndoor-ing dynamic arete problem:

Broken Jokes - 7B - From the arete (use anything right of the crack), lurch to the slot in the wall and make a couple of moves right to the jug.

n_man

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#21 Re: Lancs additions (video)
August 13, 2009, 10:53:19 am
Good effort r-man keep up the good work  :great:.

MB

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#22 Re: Lancs additions (video)
August 17, 2009, 12:40:15 pm
Is Stronstrey that we looked at a few years ago? Near a cricket pitch or something? The arete looks good.

GCW

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#23 Re: Lancs additions (video)
August 17, 2009, 01:13:33 pm
Is that Binks?
Yes, Stronstrey is over the back of the cricket club.

r-man

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#24 Re: Lancs additions (video)
August 17, 2009, 01:30:53 pm
Yep, that's the crag. When I'm topping out, you can just about hear the cricketers cheering a catch.

Remember this?

Escaping Jam, FA MB

 

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