[Nibile]

ok, here's another one for stevie and athletik, i think.
i had an excellent session at the gym yesterday, despite having weakly climbed on sunday, and being generally very tired from 4 weeks of hard training 4 times a week. well, some time ago i noticed this and it happened again yesterday, so i'll explain.
- as the first excercise i had some hard system training: 30° wall, one foot on, one crimp; one arm the crimp and get a pinch with the other hand; other foot as high as possible, lock the pinch, match to another pinch as an intermediate and dyno to a hold as high as i could. twice per arm, six sets, 4 mins rest between sets.
well, this was very strenuous, but it seems to me that it "woke up" my power for the rest of the session. i was climbing very well and powerfully.
other times i noticed the same after starting with similar system board excercises, or with hard fingerboarding routines like one armers on small holds.

so, what's your advice?
can you recruit power in this way, or is it just coincidence? it would be very useful on the rock as well, to get to the project of the day at your max level.
thanks.
(now i hope i climb 8c+...)

[joswald]

"so, what's your advice?
can you recruit power in this way, or is it just coincidence? it would be very useful on the rock as well, to get to the project of the day at your max level.
thanks."


Yes recruitment can occur throughout the session and this is why strength/power training should be progressive.
 Recruitment occurs to a greater extent from high speed - medium intensity training (therefore power training) than higher intensity, lower speed training.
Paraphrased from PE For A2 OCR (my P.E book).
James

[Nibile]

this is interesting, especially the high speed aspect. when i was systemboarding the other day i was trying to go up as quickly as i could, and the last move was a long dyno.
yesterday i tried to do the same as an experiment. therefore after my warmup i did a little of campusing on slopers that are really hard to hang, and double dynoes up and down.
i have to say that i had a pretty good session again, despite being obviously generally tired from both the previous session and the past 4 weeks of training.
i will try to go on like this in the next sessions, after these 4 days off.
i want also to try it at the boulders.
thanks james.
anyone else?

[Sloper]

The best way of 'recruiting' for power is to do series of reducing weight stack exercises to progressively tire the muscle so you've blownthe group A fast twitch mussle fibres and then increase the load by 250% or failure and do reducing sets max 4 reps down to total failure.

My first degree was sport (well it wasn't really very academic and it was a BA) and this worked for me when I wasn't a fat forty year old punter

[Nibile]

sloper,
this is quite cool!!!
how could it be applied to a bouldering session outdoors? let's say tomorrow i leave for cresciano, and let's say i want to tick a hard problem (like my hardest ever).
how should i warm up?

[Houdini]

Nibz, the best way to recruit power is to snort a bunch of cocaine next to your chosen boulder.

For added power, surround yourself w/ a bunch of smokin' hot chicks after doing the above

If you want, I'll lend you the Houdettes, I never climb w/ out them

[Nibile]

i wrote an entry blog about chicks at the boulders a while ago.
sadly, to find a hot girl bouldering here is far more difficult than recruiting power with a 26 step warm up program...

[robertostallioni]

sadly, to find a hot girl bouldering here is far more difficult than recruiting power

In ITALY! You should try Huddersfield, Yorksher.

Oh and nuovo anno felice

No fake tits, no condoms. Jesus christ.

[Nibile]

no fake tits, no condoms.
priceless.
here i have the name for my next FA!!!

[St Hubbins]

Melanie Jagger doesn't sound very Italian?

Its inconsistancies like this that make it hard for guys with O.C.D to pop their soup into a tissued palm!!!

[robertostallioni]

Says on her blog she wants to smear Gino Ginelli all over Fabrizio Ravanelli's salsiccia. As Nibile will no doubt testify, you just don't get more Italian than that.

[Sloper]

sloper,
this is quite cool!!!
how could it be applied to a bouldering session outdoors? let's say tomorrow i leave for cresciano, and let's say i want to tick a hard problem (like my hardest ever).
how should i warm up?

Training and climbing are different, warming up depends on the sort of activity you're looking to participate in, for example an endurance route should follow a bit of say 55% VO2Max exercise and some stretching wherease that would be no use for a power problem where the key is full on explosive power, for this I would suggest some anerobic contextually similar moves followed by a stretching warm down and a res tof 5 minutes with a nice hot drink.

For bold grit slabs I would suggest a nice wet kipper in the shorts.

[joswald]

sloper,
this is quite cool!!!
how could it be applied to a bouldering session outdoors? let's say tomorrow i leave for cresciano, and let's say i want to tick a hard problem (like my hardest ever).
how should i warm up?

Training and climbing are different, warming up depends on the sort of activity you're looking to participate in, for example an endurance route should follow a bit of say 55% VO2Max exercise and some stretching wherease that would be no use for a power problem where the key is full on explosive power, for this I would suggest some anerobic contextually similar moves followed by a stretching warm down and a res tof 5 minutes with a nice hot drink.

For bold grit slabs I would suggest a nice wet kipper in the shorts.

Why would you need to relate the warm up for an endurance route to the vo2 max? The vo2 link doesn't apply to climbing.
James

[athletikspesifik]

This is an example of Post-Activation Potentiation (PAP).  A neurological recruitment specific to the activity one is about to undertake.  How intense or how high a volume is dependent upon the athlete...ie, fitness, age, time spent in sport etc.  Even though you may perceive that you were fatigued from 4 weeks of intense training, it is possible that you had some muscular fatigue but an "up-regulation" of your nervous system - and as most of us believe (I believe), climbing kinetics (strength, power) is primarily neurological.

This question fits into our "training stress score" model.  It seems so random when we have these days of weightlessness vs high gravity days.  Unless some data record is happening, these questionable results with respect to time will continue.