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significant repeats (Read 4239524 times)

gme

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#7850 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2018, 02:40:27 pm
Great to see stuff getting repeated on that wall at back Bowden. If it is anything like the other routes it will be 3 star.
These things really blur the lines between routes and Bouldering but luckily the tops seem to all ease off with the hard parts being before 3/4 height.
Guess they really don’t warrant E grades now if you put loads of pads down. If they do I suggest they are in the E5/6 7a kind of catagory. Definitely not E9 with the amount of pads used. Think Dan gave it 8A.

DAVETHOMAS90

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#7851 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2018, 02:59:06 pm
Great to see stuff getting repeated on that wall at back Bowden. If it is anything like the other routes it will be 3 star.
These things really blur the lines between routes and Bouldering but luckily the tops seem to all ease off with the hard parts being before 3/4 height.
Guess they really don’t warrant E grades now if you put loads of pads down. If they do I suggest they are in the E5/6 7a kind of catagory. Definitely not E9 with the amount of pads used. Think Dan gave it 8A.

Quite.
Ground.. up.

Climbed without the pads, it might be relevant to make the comparison with other ground-ups:

"Ground-Up ascents of E9s are, well, pretty rare. We can think of Parthian Shot at Burbage, which was climbed ground-up by visiting American Kevin Jorgeson, and also James Pearson's second try ascent of Muy Caliente! in Pembroke (E9/10) but not any others."

I appreciate it's a boring debate, but it's important to make the distinction.

SA Chris

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#7852 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2018, 03:30:15 pm
Great to see stuff getting repeated on that wall at back Bowden.

I think the trees getting cut back to get some air and light in there has definitely increased odds of good conditions too.

teestub

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#7853 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2018, 03:51:53 pm

On the Siegrist front, Jumbo looks like basically the best sport route in the world! Cool it's got done again.

Agreed, the original Sharma footage was amazing! Not exactly road side either, that extra investment must make it all the sweeter.

Seigrist has now climber 9b, 8B+ and an alpine trad 5.14, not too shabby!

DAVETHOMAS90

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#7854 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2018, 12:41:09 am
Brilliant, is that the 2nd ascent? Looks great https://www.instagram.com/p/Bi4kbk-DTb3/?hl=en&taken-by=francocookson

I was completely thrown by the old thread there. Thought I was looking at old news - which I was  :slap:

That's a very stylish piece of climbing from Franco. Pity we don't get to see the top out tho.

Or indeed the bottom. The questions are still relevant, and it would be good to see how this stacks up against highballs elsewhere, but it's undoubtedly a sweet bit of climbing, dispatched in impressive fashion.  :thumbsup:

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#7855 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2018, 07:13:23 am
Brilliant, is that the 2nd ascent? Looks great https://www.instagram.com/p/Bi4kbk-DTb3/?hl=en&taken-by=francocookson
Pity we don't get to see the top out tho.

Or indeed the bottom.

All in good time I think. Franco's putting together a film called Hard Sand.

Wood FT

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#7856 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2018, 07:55:55 am
Brilliant, is that the 2nd ascent? Looks great https://www.instagram.com/p/Bi4kbk-DTb3/?hl=en&taken-by=francocookson

That's a very stylish piece of climbing from Franco

It’s Robbie Phillips

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#7857 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2018, 09:15:49 am
Quote from: DAVETHOMAS90
Or indeed the bottom.

Only missed the first easy move or two.

Great to see these being repeated. I agree with gme that pads lower the E grade (couldn't see how many Robbie used?). Something for a different thread...

DAVETHOMAS90

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#7858 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2018, 04:37:38 pm
Quote from: DAVETHOMAS90
Or indeed the bottom.

Only missed the first easy move or two.

Great to see these being repeated. I agree with gme that pads lower the E grade (couldn't see how many Robbie used?). Something for a different thread...

Pads make it a completely different proposition.

I wasn't referring to the bottom couple of moves, but the protection used.

Great bit of climbing, but padding it out - which we can't see - makes all the difference to the ability to fully commit.

I'd say, show it as it is. The proper context, and therefore the significance of the ascent. Ground up E9 or highball 8A.

gme

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#7859 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2018, 06:07:33 pm
He used a lot of pads if you look at his Instagram. He also top roped it 1st it was Dan who did it ground up.
I am not putting Robbie’s ascent down at all I think it’s great that he’s doing this stuff, just suggesting it should not be reported as E9 but 8A as Dan suggested.
I think pads are great but they really have made a mess of the grading system up here.

Duma

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#7860 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2018, 09:18:45 am
Babsi Zangerl has done Speed Integrale 9a.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BjBxseHhKiq/

SA Chris

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#7861 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2018, 01:16:48 pm
He used a lot of pads if you look at his Instagram. He also top roped it 1st it was Dan who did it ground up.
I am not putting Robbie’s ascent down at all I think it’s great that he’s doing this stuff, just suggesting it should not be reported as E9 but 8A as Dan suggested.
I think pads are great but they really have made a mess of the grading system up here.

Wasn't it FAed the same way?

gme

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#7862 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2018, 01:53:55 pm
I think he had a rope on for the top but in essence yes. Top roped then led with some pads I would guess.
I guess I just still think that E9 is either Hubble kind of difficult or really dangerous. Big stacks of pads obviously make this safe. The height of the Crux is sprained ankle level.

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#7863 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2018, 02:07:26 pm
Interestingly Robbie says on his IG "only a tad harder than County Ethics" which is more like 7c (not done it). So maybe Dark Side is highball 7c+. Great that it's got some attention, that wall is amaze-a-balls.

Duma

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#7864 Re: significant repeats
May 23, 2018, 09:47:46 pm
Em Twyford did Once Upon A Time In The South West today, sounds like Caff did Walk Of Life too
https://www.instagram.com/p/BjIgKx9D16P/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=16mvku7i7lo9w

andy popp

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#7865 Re: significant repeats
May 24, 2018, 06:15:36 am
Double E9 day! Interesting to read her account; I can't recall anyone describing setting off on such a hard headpoint in such a genuinely uncommitted state of mind. I always used to tell belayers I was "just going to have a look," but I never meant it.

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#7866 Re: significant repeats
May 24, 2018, 08:32:53 am
I always used to tell belayers I was "just going to have a look," but I never meant it.

Perhaps she doesn’t mean this either.

andy popp

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#7867 Re: significant repeats
May 24, 2018, 09:03:23 am
It sounds like she did though, reading the caption on instagram.

cheque

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#7868 Re: significant repeats
May 24, 2018, 10:53:25 am
It sounds like she did though, reading the caption on instagram.

Sorry, that was a bit of an opaque joke based on the “pro climbers instagrams are a web of lies” comments that you see occasionally. Forgot the winky smiley.  ;)

Duma

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#7869 Re: significant repeats
May 24, 2018, 09:09:05 pm
Looks like (from Emma Twyfords Instagram story - can't link) Maddie Cope has done Once Upon A Time In The South West as well.

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#7870 Re: significant repeats
May 24, 2018, 09:54:53 pm
Nathan Lee did Divided Years E9 6c last week  :icon_beerchug:

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DAVETHOMAS90

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#7872 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2018, 12:40:45 am
Em Twyford did Once Upon A Time In The South West today, sounds like Caff did Walk Of Life too
https://www.instagram.com/p/BjIgKx9D16P/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=16mvku7i7lo9w

Fantastic stuff, both.

From the photo it looks as though Earth Rim Roamer has fallen down again.

I've always felt James P's effort on Walk of Life was magnificent, irrespective of the (pointless?) grade dispute.

Stunning slab of rock.

SA Chris

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#7873 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2018, 09:43:52 am
How can it fall down again?

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#7874 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2018, 10:39:53 am
Earth Rim Roamer original, ERR2, and the Earth Sea Trilogy were all based around the right arete of the slab. Bits of this keep dropping off so the slab is slowly (geologically instantaneously) narrowing. Best do Walk of Life fairly soon, Once Upon a Time in the West should last a little longer.

 

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