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significant repeats (Read 4233504 times)

Teaboy

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#7700 Re: significant repeats
January 13, 2018, 01:44:09 pm
Oops, your link goes into that in more detail anyway

Mike Tyson

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#7701 Re: significant repeats
January 13, 2018, 06:13:27 pm
Jakob Schubert has flashed Catalan Witness the Fitness  :strongbench:

remus

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#7702 Re: significant repeats
January 13, 2018, 07:55:55 pm
Jakob Schubert has flashed Catalan Witness the Fitness  :strongbench:

Decent effort that!

Anyone no what grade that's settled at? Last I heard a few holds had fallen off since the FA making it easier.

HaeMeS

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#7703 Re: significant repeats
January 13, 2018, 09:21:23 pm
All ascents and notes on the grade: http://www.hardclimbs.info/climbs/catalan-witness-the-fitness

Only one to give it 8B+ was Alberto Rocasolano:
Chris no dijo que fuera 8C... Anteriormente, en mi opinión, creo que sería 8B+, pero ahora creo que 8C está bien. No sé, el tema también es que es un poco largo –24 movimientos– y algunos lo catalogarían como vía, y quizás sería 9a o 9a+ de vía. Igual se debería inventar un nuevo método de regulación de nivel para este tipo de vía-búlder cada vez más comunes.

JackAus

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#7704 Re: significant repeats
January 13, 2018, 10:34:11 pm
from jakobs fb:

Quote
Catalan Witness the Fitness' FLASH 💥🔥💥😄
What a day! Since our flights are quite late we decided to stop at Cova del ocell before heading to the airport.
I already thought this boulder would fit me very well (steep climbing on crimps) and I was right. With the perfect support from @janhojer and @marcojubes I was able to flash it, thanks a lot buddies 🙌 This boulder has been called fb 8c in the past but as nice as a 8c flash sounds I can't agree, guess it is more like low end 8b+. But who cares, I was very positively surprised how good the rock was and how natural and well this boulder climbs! So psyched!!!!
📸 by @marcojubes seconds before my go 😄

haydn jones

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#7705 Re: significant repeats
January 14, 2018, 08:20:36 am
I translated the first half

Chris did not say it was 8C....previously. In my opinion I think that it could be 8B+. But now I think that 8C :tumble: is good. I don't know, the theme is also that it is a little long. 24 moves and some would class it as a route. And maybe it could be a 9a or 9a+ route.

Doylo

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#7706 Re: significant repeats
January 14, 2018, 08:31:25 am
The worlds not ready for 8C flash.

Kingy

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#7707 Re: significant repeats
January 14, 2018, 09:03:00 am
Christ on a bike! I wonder what day on it was for it, certainly not his 1st as he was on the way to the airport. I know when I climb on my last day, its at least 2nd day on.

He also was denied another 9a the session previously at Santa Linya when some sika broke under his hand before he could clip the chains of 'Mercenaris del Passat' [hard 9a]. I would have given it to him.

"Today I pretty much did the first repetition (as far as I know) of 'Mercenaris del Passat' [hard 9a] but when I was about to clip the anchor the sika top hold broke 😱 not sure what the rock climbing ethics professors would say at such a case 😅anyways it's the same top as 'Stoking the Fire' and I'm pretty happy it didn't happen when I sent that one."

Fiend

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#7708 Re: significant repeats
January 14, 2018, 11:27:05 am
I'd give it to him  :-\ It's not Gogarth or Lleyn, holds breaking isn't part of the challenge, it's an external factor beyond his control and beyond his ability to deal with. Spirit of the law not letter of the law and all that.

8B+ flash is quite good really  :strongbench:

mrjonathanr

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#7709 Re: significant repeats
January 14, 2018, 02:29:50 pm

 Alberto Rocasolano:
 Igual se debería inventar un nuevo método de regulación de nivel para este tipo de vía-búlder cada vez más comunes.

A new method of grading these boulder-routes should be invented really as they are becoming increasingly common.

Good translation Haydn.

jwi

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#7710 Re: significant repeats
January 14, 2018, 03:16:20 pm
Traverse grades were invented a long time ago in Fontainebleau, much to the confusion of everyone, especially as Fb 8a > Fbtr 8a > 8a. Turns out that the old there-and-back bleausards were right all along.

ferret

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#7711 Re: significant repeats
January 14, 2018, 04:55:53 pm
Have a mate hold a draw with a short length of rope you have to clip into it every 3m, then give it a sport route grade

remus

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#7712 Re: significant repeats
January 14, 2018, 05:29:33 pm
Have a mate hold a draw with a short length of rope you have to clip into it every 3m, then give it a sport route grade

Maybe ab in and brush a few holds, try a few moves etc. so you get the full 'fucking around with a rope and harness' vibe.

andy popp

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#7713 Re: significant repeats
January 14, 2018, 05:35:47 pm
so you get the full 'fucking around with a rope and harness' vibe.

For the true full effect you'd also have to force someone else to sit slumped in an increasingly uncomfortable harness for several hours.

JohnM

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#7714 Re: significant repeats
January 14, 2018, 09:56:42 pm
I think sport grades are great instead of bouldering grades up to a certain level for massaging the ego! It sounds way better in my mind to say you have climbed an 8a instead of a 7A-B! At the top end maybe it gets harder to choose for the longer boulders. Do you take 8B/+ or something with a 9 in it!?

sxrxg

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#7715 Re: significant repeats
January 23, 2018, 11:33:19 pm

https://onbouldering.com/oriane-bertone-climbs-golden-shadow-8b-v14/

Is 8B+ by a female still significant? In this case I think probably so as she is only 12 years old!

ferret

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#7716 Re: significant repeats
January 24, 2018, 02:50:33 am
I wonder in 20 years if female bouldering will have gone the way of gymnastics, with the best athletes peaking by 16. Is this 5 "women" who have climbed 8b+ now, 2 under 16.

Dexter

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#7717 Re: significant repeats
January 24, 2018, 08:58:11 am
I wonder in 20 years if female bouldering will have gone the way of gymnastics, with the best athletes peaking by 16. Is this 5 "women" who have climbed 8b+ now, 2 under 16.
From the article it says 9 people
"Tomoko Ogawa was the first one with her ascent of Cahtarsis back in 2012. Since then Ashima Shiraishi, Shauna Coxsey, Alex Puccio, Isabelle Faus, Mile Heyden, Melissa Le Neve, Anna Stöhr and, now, Oriane Bertone "

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#7718 Re: significant repeats
January 24, 2018, 01:44:07 pm

https://onbouldering.com/oriane-bertone-climbs-golden-shadow-8b-v14/

Is 8B+ by a female still significant? In this case I think probably so as she is only 12 years old!

This is pretty impressive!

Also, I don't understand how its 18 degree (according to her 8a.nu) in Rocklands at the moment! Is that like a freak day? Surely its there middle of summer? Most of there winter it is warmer than 18 degrees.


T_B

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#7719 Re: significant repeats
January 26, 2018, 12:04:37 pm
Seems surprising given they're in the middle of what a friend in Cape Town is calling a "1000 year drought". The local government is saying just under 4 million people are going to be out of running water by 12 April!

Not sure I'd be booking a trip to Rocklands this year.

AlistairB

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#7720 Re: significant repeats
January 26, 2018, 12:36:00 pm
Last year Cape Town was already rationing quite significantly but there were no issues in the Cederberg. So I don't think it will affect Rocklands. But it's certainly a big problem for Cape Town, fingers crossed they get some rain and more people start adhering to the limits.

peewee

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#7721 Re: significant repeats
January 26, 2018, 12:58:01 pm
I think most of the accommodation is fed from boreholes so no issues with water supply.

teestub

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#7722 Re: significant repeats
January 26, 2018, 01:06:14 pm
If there's been several years of poor rainfall then the groundwater table is also likely to be affected.

Banana finger

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#7723 Re: significant repeats
January 26, 2018, 04:15:41 pm
Out of interest with Golden Shadow, is it common practice to get a heel toe on the "lean to block" at the top...if this is the done thing, its pretty weird.....kinda like the rules are "you can use the back block but only with your heels at the top". Obviously I'm sure this is utterly brick however you climb it and an amazing achievement!

turnipturned

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#7724 Re: significant repeats
January 26, 2018, 04:20:44 pm
Tom Newman did Cypher today. Maybe not significant by current international standards, however he is the second person (after DV) to do all of the 5 hard gritstone boulders. (High Fids, Ace, Voyager, Rhythm and cypher).

AWESOME, well done Tom

 

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