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significant repeats (Read 1783049 times)

Mike Tyson

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#7725 Re: significant repeats
January 11, 2018, 01:11:42 pm
Ed Hamer flashed or OS it too.

Apparently name refers to the "Basque term for an independence riot (complete with looting and street violence)"

Sounds like a January detox drink.

jwi

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#7726 Re: significant repeats
January 13, 2018, 11:31:14 am
Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first repeat of Adam Ondra's La Capella in Siurana. La Capella may or may not be 9b. Ondra himself was unsure if it was 9a+ or 9b. If the route is indeed 9b, Ghisolfi becomes the forth climber to have done three 9bs, after Ondra, Sharma and Schubert.

http://rockandice.com/climbing-news/stefano-ghisolfi-makes-second-ascent-of-la-capella-5-15b/

Teaboy

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#7727 Re: significant repeats
January 13, 2018, 01:03:18 pm
According to his Instagram account he pulled a hold off that made the crux a bit harder so maybe that's enough to make it solid at the grade. Obviously that's uninformed speculation on my part.

Teaboy

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#7728 Re: significant repeats
January 13, 2018, 01:44:09 pm
Oops, your link goes into that in more detail anyway

Mike Tyson

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#7729 Re: significant repeats
January 13, 2018, 06:13:27 pm
Jakob Schubert has flashed Catalan Witness the Fitness  :strongbench:

remus

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#7730 Re: significant repeats
January 13, 2018, 07:55:55 pm
Jakob Schubert has flashed Catalan Witness the Fitness  :strongbench:

Decent effort that!

Anyone no what grade that's settled at? Last I heard a few holds had fallen off since the FA making it easier.

HaeMeS

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#7731 Re: significant repeats
January 13, 2018, 09:21:23 pm
All ascents and notes on the grade: http://www.hardclimbs.info/climbs/catalan-witness-the-fitness

Only one to give it 8B+ was Alberto Rocasolano:
Chris no dijo que fuera 8C... Anteriormente, en mi opinión, creo que sería 8B+, pero ahora creo que 8C está bien. No sé, el tema también es que es un poco largo –24 movimientos– y algunos lo catalogarían como vía, y quizás sería 9a o 9a+ de vía. Igual se debería inventar un nuevo método de regulación de nivel para este tipo de vía-búlder cada vez más comunes.

JackAus

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#7732 Re: significant repeats
January 13, 2018, 10:34:11 pm
from jakobs fb:

Quote
Catalan Witness the Fitness' FLASH 💥🔥💥😄
What a day! Since our flights are quite late we decided to stop at Cova del ocell before heading to the airport.
I already thought this boulder would fit me very well (steep climbing on crimps) and I was right. With the perfect support from @janhojer and @marcojubes I was able to flash it, thanks a lot buddies 🙌 This boulder has been called fb 8c in the past but as nice as a 8c flash sounds I can't agree, guess it is more like low end 8b+. But who cares, I was very positively surprised how good the rock was and how natural and well this boulder climbs! So psyched!!!!
📸 by @marcojubes seconds before my go 😄

haydn jones

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#7733 Re: significant repeats
January 14, 2018, 08:20:36 am
I translated the first half

Chris did not say it was 8C....previously. In my opinion I think that it could be 8B+. But now I think that 8C :tumble: is good. I don't know, the theme is also that it is a little long. 24 moves and some would class it as a route. And maybe it could be a 9a or 9a+ route.

Doylo

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#7734 Re: significant repeats
January 14, 2018, 08:31:25 am
The worlds not ready for 8C flash.

Kingy

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#7735 Re: significant repeats
January 14, 2018, 09:03:00 am
Christ on a bike! I wonder what day on it was for it, certainly not his 1st as he was on the way to the airport. I know when I climb on my last day, its at least 2nd day on.

He also was denied another 9a the session previously at Santa Linya when some sika broke under his hand before he could clip the chains of 'Mercenaris del Passat' [hard 9a]. I would have given it to him.

"Today I pretty much did the first repetition (as far as I know) of 'Mercenaris del Passat' [hard 9a] but when I was about to clip the anchor the sika top hold broke 😱 not sure what the rock climbing ethics professors would say at such a case 😅anyways it's the same top as 'Stoking the Fire' and I'm pretty happy it didn't happen when I sent that one."

Fiend

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#7736 Re: significant repeats
January 14, 2018, 11:27:05 am
I'd give it to him  :-\ It's not Gogarth or Lleyn, holds breaking isn't part of the challenge, it's an external factor beyond his control and beyond his ability to deal with. Spirit of the law not letter of the law and all that.

8B+ flash is quite good really  :strongbench:

mrjonathanr

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#7737 Re: significant repeats
January 14, 2018, 02:29:50 pm

 Alberto Rocasolano:
 Igual se debería inventar un nuevo método de regulación de nivel para este tipo de vía-búlder cada vez más comunes.

A new method of grading these boulder-routes should be invented really as they are becoming increasingly common.

Good translation Haydn.

jwi

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#7738 Re: significant repeats
January 14, 2018, 03:16:20 pm
Traverse grades were invented a long time ago in Fontainebleau, much to the confusion of everyone, especially as Fb 8a > Fbtr 8a > 8a. Turns out that the old there-and-back bleausards were right all along.

ferret

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#7739 Re: significant repeats
January 14, 2018, 04:55:53 pm
Have a mate hold a draw with a short length of rope you have to clip into it every 3m, then give it a sport route grade

remus

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#7740 Re: significant repeats
January 14, 2018, 05:29:33 pm
Have a mate hold a draw with a short length of rope you have to clip into it every 3m, then give it a sport route grade

Maybe ab in and brush a few holds, try a few moves etc. so you get the full 'fucking around with a rope and harness' vibe.

andy popp

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#7741 Re: significant repeats
January 14, 2018, 05:35:47 pm
so you get the full 'fucking around with a rope and harness' vibe.

For the true full effect you'd also have to force someone else to sit slumped in an increasingly uncomfortable harness for several hours.

JohnM

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#7742 Re: significant repeats
January 14, 2018, 09:56:42 pm
I think sport grades are great instead of bouldering grades up to a certain level for massaging the ego! It sounds way better in my mind to say you have climbed an 8a instead of a 7A-B! At the top end maybe it gets harder to choose for the longer boulders. Do you take 8B/+ or something with a 9 in it!?