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significant repeats (Read 4234784 times)

teestub

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#7675 Re: significant repeats
December 04, 2017, 07:16:32 pm
On Sunday Dan Turner repeated Dan Varian’s Star Power at High Crag in the County, not a bad week!

Wood FT

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#7676 Re: significant repeats
December 04, 2017, 07:34:37 pm
Now that's a fucking line.

I saw on FB that William 'the future mark II' Bosi did Make it Funky (8c) in a day, that's pretty bloody impressive in my onions, is it?

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#7677 Re: significant repeats
December 05, 2017, 10:35:11 am
Austrian dark horse Florian Schmalz repeated Bügeleisen (8B+) and Emotional Landscapes (8C) on the same day a few weeks ago and yesterday did Big Paw (8B+). Not too shabby

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#7678 Re: significant repeats
December 05, 2017, 10:41:26 am
Austrian dark horse Florian Schmalz repeated Bügeleisen (8B+) and Emotional Landscapes (8C) on the same day a few weeks ago

Impressive, was that in a session?

Nibile

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#7679 Re: significant repeats
December 05, 2017, 10:45:27 am
I don't think so. That would be far beyond impressive.

andy popp

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#7680 Re: significant repeats
December 05, 2017, 12:09:40 pm
Hazel Findlay has freed the Salathe (only the second British free ascent) and flashed The Phoenix. I still think its amazing Jerry onsighted The Phoenix so many years ago.

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#7681 Re: significant repeats
December 05, 2017, 04:19:39 pm
I was wondering when/whether somebody would decide whether Hazel doing the Salathé was "significant".

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#7682 Re: significant repeats
December 05, 2017, 05:02:34 pm
Second ever British (free) ascent of such an iconic route says significant to me.

duncan

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#7683 Re: significant repeats
December 05, 2017, 05:10:06 pm
It's sort-of hardest of the easier El Cap routes, if that makes sense, but when a classic trad. route's only other Brit. ascent is from Caff it's usually significant! Not clear from the reporting but guessing from Instagram photos, she may have linked the entire headwall, not always done and adds a grade. How good must that pitch feel?

Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl are up on Magic Mushroom right now, which sounds like it might be the second toughest (in the infants) after Dawn Wall. That will emphatically be a significant repeat if they make it.

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#7684 Re: significant repeats
December 10, 2017, 05:16:58 pm
Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl are up on Magic Mushroom right now, which sounds like it might be the second toughest (in the infants) after Dawn Wall. That will emphatically be a significant repeat if they make it.

They did. A 5.14a (8b+) crux and numerous 5.13 pitches, a lot of very Yosemite weird groove climbing.

Details of the FA. Tommy Caldwell went back and lead the whole lot in a day shortly after.

Wood FT

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#7685 Re: significant repeats
December 10, 2017, 07:10:25 pm
Inspiring duo, been following this on their Instagram, glad to see it done

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#7686 Re: significant repeats
December 11, 2017, 09:58:34 pm
Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl are up on Magic Mushroom right now, which sounds like it might be the second toughest (in the infants) after Dawn Wall. That will emphatically be a significant repeat if they make it.

They did. A 5.14a (8b+) crux and numerous 5.13 pitches, a lot of very Yosemite weird groove climbing.

Details of the FA. Tommy Caldwell went back and lead the whole lot in a day shortly after.

This seems pretty bloody significant, 2nd hardest route on El Cap now gets first repeat.  Both Jacopo and Babsi rp'd all pitches according to their Instagram posts.  Impressive stuff!

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#7688 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2017, 05:38:59 pm
Janja joins the 9a club http://fanatic-climbing.com/premier-9a-pour-janja-garnbret-first-9a-for-janja-garnbret/

Good news, can’t help but think this is just the beginning with Janja though.

highrepute

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#7689 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2017, 09:17:02 pm
The fact she's flashed 8cs seems more impressive to me.

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#7690 Re: significant repeats
December 30, 2017, 10:32:22 am
The fact she's flashed 8cs seems more impressive to me.
Well, being by far the best female competition climber is surely quite a bit more impressive to me than climbing 9a in a five tries, flashing 8c or getting ridiculously close to do Biographie on the sixth go.

But that's neither nere nor there; 9a in five goes is still among the best female performance on rock ever, is it not? That indicates that 9b could be possible with siege tactics.

jwi

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#7691 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2018, 10:59:02 pm
Jacob Schubert just did Stoking the Fire, 9b, in Santa Linya. (Source: Fanatic Climbing).

This is his third 9b, and only Chris Sharma (6) and Adam Ondra (16) have done more, if I'm not mistaken.

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remus

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#7693 Re: significant repeats
January 11, 2018, 06:47:54 am
Looks like the ever-strong Jim Pope has onsighted Kale Borraka at Siurana https://www.instagram.com/p/BdyCVFtH64C/

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#7694 Re: significant repeats
January 11, 2018, 09:06:55 am
Looks like the ever-strong Jim Pope has onsighted Kale Borraka at Siurana https://www.instagram.com/p/BdyCVFtH64C/

Effort Jim. Surprisingly few Brits have onsighted at this grade.

Think it is spelled Kalea Borroka. Popular one. Steve has flashed or onsighted it. Was I think first 8b+ by a female Brit - Lucy Creamer. Hazel has done it too.

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#7695 Re: significant repeats
January 11, 2018, 09:16:30 am
Ed Hamer flashed or OS it too.

shark

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#7696 Re: significant repeats
January 11, 2018, 09:20:45 am
Ed Hamer flashed or OS it too.

Yes. Was just looking at 8a.nu record and he flashed it. Steve's ascent was down as an onsight. Pete Dawson has redpointed it.

Apparently name refers to the "Basque term for an independence riot (complete with looting and street violence)"

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#7697 Re: significant repeats
January 11, 2018, 01:11:42 pm
Ed Hamer flashed or OS it too.

Apparently name refers to the "Basque term for an independence riot (complete with looting and street violence)"

Sounds like a January detox drink.

jwi

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#7698 Re: significant repeats
January 13, 2018, 11:31:14 am
Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first repeat of Adam Ondra's La Capella in Siurana. La Capella may or may not be 9b. Ondra himself was unsure if it was 9a+ or 9b. If the route is indeed 9b, Ghisolfi becomes the forth climber to have done three 9bs, after Ondra, Sharma and Schubert.

http://rockandice.com/climbing-news/stefano-ghisolfi-makes-second-ascent-of-la-capella-5-15b/

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#7699 Re: significant repeats
January 13, 2018, 01:03:18 pm
According to his Instagram account he pulled a hold off that made the crux a bit harder so maybe that's enough to make it solid at the grade. Obviously that's uninformed speculation on my part.

 

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