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significant repeats (Read 4236113 times)

Wood FT

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#7625 Re: significant repeats
October 09, 2017, 11:59:46 am
Mark said it's harder than anything else he's done before, whether that makes it E9 or E10 I don't know. Looking forward to seeing this dyno.

Wood FT

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#7626 Re: significant repeats
October 09, 2017, 12:08:48 pm
In the slightly more exotic news, it appears infamous knee-wrangler Alex Barrows has rested his way up Ixeia 8b+ onsight in Rodellar!

Quote
Hell yeah!! Fought hard from bottom to top, and climbed well apart from nearly pumping out and punting off trying to get a knee in low down. Down to 8b/+ in the new guide, fuck it, consensus rules! Plus Siegrist took the + and he downgrades all my hard stuff ;)

source: 8a.nu logbook

 :clap2:

andy popp

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#7627 Re: significant repeats
October 09, 2017, 01:56:12 pm
UKB’s own Mark “20” Rankine’s made the second ascent of Divine Moments of Truth at roadside north Yorks moors honeypot Kay Nest today.

If Mark's into a bit of esoteric sandstone, I'd love it if nipped over to Helsby and did Time Regained, still unrepeated after 16 years and counting.

Nigel

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#7628 Re: significant repeats
October 09, 2017, 04:24:38 pm
Mark said it's harder than anything else he's done before, whether that makes it E9 or E10 I don't know. Looking forward to seeing this dyno.

Me too, Franco's Instagram makes it sound like he bypassed 7m in a single dyno! That I would like to see! Seriously though, brilliant stuff Mark.

Luke Owens

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#7629 Re: significant repeats
October 23, 2017, 02:32:14 pm
Jack Palmieri has done the first repeat of Bransby's cave link-up Bon Atrocity (8B). Effort Jack!


petejh

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#7630 Re: significant repeats
October 23, 2017, 06:41:26 pm
 :clap2: Ace!

Surprised this hadn't had a repeat, always thought it's one of the best looking lines of the cave.

Wood FT

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#7631 Re: significant repeats
October 23, 2017, 07:01:01 pm
looks brilliant, what french grade would it get?

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#7632 Re: significant repeats
October 23, 2017, 07:25:15 pm
looks brilliant, what french grade would it get?

8c apparently!

petejh

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#7633 Re: significant repeats
October 23, 2017, 07:26:16 pm
Lou Ferrino into Bonnie ('Dorsal Stream') gets French 8c+ so this would have thought this would be the about same.

El Mocho

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#7634 Re: significant repeats
October 24, 2017, 07:51:09 am
According to caption at the end of this video it would be French 8b+/c:
Def easier than Dorsal Stream, Rock atrocity is easier than Lou and also fewer moves which makes a difference I think.

I thought it was called Rock a Bon Baby...

Doylo

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#7635 Re: significant repeats
October 24, 2017, 08:03:44 am
Font 7C into 8A+=8b+  :lol: :lol: :lol:

abarro81

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#7636 Re: significant repeats
October 24, 2017, 08:27:50 am
 :-\

remus

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#7637 Re: significant repeats
October 24, 2017, 09:41:54 am
Font 7C into 8A+=8b+  :lol: :lol: :lol:

I wonder how that compares to the grade maths for Mecca...

Doylo

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#7638 Re: significant repeats
October 24, 2017, 10:11:41 am
Font 7C into 8A+=8b+  :lol: :lol: :lol:

I wonder how that compares to the grade maths for Mecca...

Exactly.

jwi

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#7639 Re: significant repeats
October 28, 2017, 11:32:18 am
Fred Roughling's Salamandre has been repeated by Baptiste Dherbilly, a local climber. Details on Fanatic Climbing.

jwi

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#7640 Re: significant repeats
October 28, 2017, 08:57:37 pm
Having done one 8c+ previously to 9a/b...  :-\

webbo

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#7641 Re: significant repeats
October 28, 2017, 09:07:42 pm
50 plus goes at it.

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#7642 Re: significant repeats
October 28, 2017, 09:25:16 pm

Font 7C into 8A+=8b+  :lol: :lol: :lol:
According to caption at the end of this video it would be French 8b+/c:
Def easier than Dorsal Stream, Rock atrocity is easier than Lou and also fewer moves which makes a difference I think.

I thought it was called Rock a Bon Baby...

Just seen this link.

Cheers everyone.

If the grades attributed to the other long stuff in the cave are anything to go by I'd say French 8b+ is a bit shy for sure, Hatch life high is 8b+, In Heaven is supposedly 8c. Maybe those grades are both a little generous I wouldn't really know, but i can say this is a lot harder than both.

Also at about 18 moves the way Ben did it and a couple more for me because I'm weak, it's actually pretty short for a cave link, that's still just boulder territory no? Just?

Nibile

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#7643 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2017, 12:57:20 pm
Also at about 18 moves that's still just boulder territory no?
Erm...  :-\ No.
Not in amillion years. 18 moves should be counted as a marathon or as crossing the Sahara desert or circumnavigating the globe.

P.s. Great work in the Cave of Justice, fucking great job! Keep going.
 :beer2:

Nibile

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#7644 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2017, 01:48:07 pm
P.p.s. Wad point for beasting the Cave.

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#7645 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2017, 08:36:05 pm
Also at about 18 moves that's still just boulder territory no?
Erm...  :-\ No.
Not in amillion years. 18 moves should be counted as a marathon or as crossing the Sahara desert or circumnavigating the globe.

P.s. Great work in the Cave of Justice, fucking great job! Keep going.
 :beer2:


Haha, oh well was worth a try! Cheers dude!

Oldmanmatt

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nai

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#7647 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2017, 07:32:47 pm
She did Tsunami recently as well according to this, which may be even more significant.

https://climber.co.uk/news/latest-news/molly-and-mecca.html

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