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significant repeats (Read 4236018 times)

Doylo

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#7600 Re: significant repeats
September 25, 2017, 05:50:21 pm
More amazing news from a vintage year. Sounds like Janja nearly did it in 6 tries a few weeks ago as well. Female 9a+s going down.
Whilst I don't think they are catching up to the top boys they are kicking a majority of their arses. Not sure how many 9a+s and above have been done world wide but none here other than Steve.

Violent New Breed.  ;)

Kingy

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#7601 Re: significant repeats
September 25, 2017, 05:55:49 pm
Massive congrats to Margo, a fantastic achievement!

Re UK 9a+'s what about Tom Bolger doing Catxasa in Santa Linya? Here is the vid:

youtube.com/watch?v=unR2tqVq_Bw


Kingy

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#7602 Re: significant repeats
September 25, 2017, 05:57:17 pm
My apologies, is says in the vid 'attempting' the route. Anybody know if Tom ever did it?

abarro81

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#7603 Re: significant repeats
September 25, 2017, 07:01:46 pm
Nope, never did AFAIK

gme

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#7604 Re: significant repeats
September 25, 2017, 07:49:08 pm
I had forgotten VNB rather than dismissing it.
The lack of others shows what an amazing effort doing 9a+ is.

Doylo

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#7605 Re: significant repeats
September 26, 2017, 03:40:26 pm
Just seen footage of her getting through the crux and to the jug. Looked well strong compared to Sharma on those moves in 2001. :weakbench:

Danny

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#7606 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2017, 11:57:11 am
Just seen footage of her getting through the crux and to the jug. Looked well strong compared to Sharma on those moves in 2001. :weakbench:

She must be about the same age as Sharma was when he did it, or maybe younger? Not a ridiculous assumption that she's probably got 9b+ in her.

standard

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#7607 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2017, 01:31:38 pm
Just seen footage of her getting through the crux and to the jug. Looked well strong compared to Sharma on those moves in 2001. :weakbench:

She must be about the same age as Sharma was when he did it, or maybe younger? Not a ridiculous assumption that she's probably got 9b+ in her.

Well, to climb any of the current 9b+ routes, she'd have to get a lot, lot stronger, i imagine?

Doylo

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#7608 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2017, 02:39:05 pm
Just seen footage of her getting through the crux and to the jug. Looked well strong compared to Sharma on those moves in 2001. :weakbench:

She must be about the same age as Sharma was when he did it, or maybe younger? Not a ridiculous assumption that she's probably got 9b+ in her.


Well, to climb any of the current 9b+ routes, she'd have to get a lot, lot stronger, i imagine?

They've all got at least 8B+ on them haven't they. Don't know much about her bouldering capabilities...

SA Chris

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#7609 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2017, 02:46:48 pm
At what point will referring to females as "beasts" not be seen as as offensive?

Wood FT

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#7610 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2017, 03:39:20 pm
Just seen footage of her getting through the crux and to the jug. Looked well strong compared to Sharma on those moves in 2001. :weakbench:

She must be about the same age as Sharma was when he did it, or maybe younger? Not a ridiculous assumption that she's probably got 9b+ in her.


Well, to climb any of the current 9b+ routes, she'd have to get a lot, lot stronger, i imagine?

They've all got at least 8B+ on them haven't they. Don't know much about her bouldering capabilities...

Well at least font 8a from this ascent

gme

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#7611 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2017, 03:58:24 pm
Just seen footage of her getting through the crux and to the jug. Looked well strong compared to Sharma on those moves in 2001. :weakbench:

She must be about the same age as Sharma was when he did it, or maybe younger? Not a ridiculous assumption that she's probably got 9b+ in her.

Steady on now. There is rather a large gap between this route and 9b+. Whilst this is an amazing ascent the route is 16 years or more old so we need to keep it in perspective. It took 12 years to get from 9a+-9b+ and it also took Ondra to come along.
Megos did this in a few hours and as yet has not done 9b+.

IanP

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#7612 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2017, 05:03:50 pm
At what point will referring to females as "beasts" not be seen as as offensive?

My 17 year old daughter thinks Shauna Coxey is a beast and definitely means it as a compliment!

Danny

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#7613 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2017, 06:28:11 pm
Just seen footage of her getting through the crux and to the jug. Looked well strong compared to Sharma on those moves in 2001. :weakbench:

She must be about the same age as Sharma was when he did it, or maybe younger? Not a ridiculous assumption that she's probably got 9b+ in her.

Steady on now. There is rather a large gap between this route and 9b+. Whilst this is an amazing ascent the route is 16 years or more old so we need to keep it in perspective. It took 12 years to get from 9a+-9b+ and it also took Ondra to come along.
Megos did this in a few hours and as yet has not done 9b+.

1. Obviously a huge gap between those grades. One that Sharma crossed over >decade of improvement.
2. Megos just hasn't tried hard yet.
3. I'm not saying it's likely, just not ridiculous. Should we really expect her *not* to improve at least a grade or maybe two over the next decade?
4. Biographie is now harder and it took her less effort than Sharma by all accounts.




jwi

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#7614 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2017, 07:49:14 pm
Who knows what the future holds. Better to celebrate the presence. Especially since it is Biographie! Solid, in the middle of the possibly most trafficked crag in the world. Everyone who is even close to the level has tried Biographie.

jwi

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#7615 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2017, 07:53:47 pm
Speaking of. Muriel Sarkany has done Era Vella, which I think is a pretty significant repeat, especially since she's 43. (Source)

Danny

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#7616 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2017, 08:03:22 pm
You're right of course. Absolutely brilliant stuff all round.

jwi

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#7617 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2017, 05:35:20 pm
And no one outside Spain much cared about her performance at the time, and they still don't for some unfathomable reason.

As we seem to have a lot of Spanish learners here, my better half says that this TV documentary on Bereziartu from 2013 is great: http://www.rtve.es/alacarta/videos/al-filo-de-lo-imposible/filo-imposible-josune-bereziartu/1624062/

Wood FT

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#7618 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2017, 06:30:15 pm
Why have her ascents been seemingly forgotten by the wider climbing community?

Danny

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#7619 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2017, 06:47:17 pm
And no one outside Spain much cared about her performance at the time, and they still don't for some unfathomable reason.

As we seem to have a lot of Spanish learners here, my better half says that this TV documentary on Bereziartu from 2013 is great: http://www.rtve.es/alacarta/videos/al-filo-de-lo-imposible/filo-imposible-josune-bereziartu/1624062/

I don't think that's completely fair, though I get your point. Wasn't she front cover of the last ever issue of OTE?

T_B

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#7620 Re: significant repeats
September 29, 2017, 10:19:55 am
Speaking of. Muriel Sarkany has done Era Vella, which I think is a pretty significant repeat, especially since she's 43. (Source)

What an absolute ledge. And she's pretty tiny. I know 43's not old old, but I can't imagine she hasn't got a few aches and pains to deal with. Well inspiring.

cheque

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#7621 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2017, 07:14:09 pm
UKB’s own Mark “20” Rankine’s made the second ascent of Divine Moments of Truth at roadside north Yorks moors honeypot Kay Nest today.
« Last Edit: October 08, 2017, 07:25:36 pm by cheque »

bolehillbilly

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#7622 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2017, 09:11:17 pm
UKB’s own Mark “20” Rankine’s made the second ascent of Divine Moments of Truth at roadside north Yorks moors honeypot Kay Nest today.

Great effort Mark, looks terrifying! Hope you got some pictures of this.

Wood FT

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#7623 Re: significant repeats
October 09, 2017, 11:22:56 am
looks like it was filmed for the Moors 'Hard Sand' film

https://www.instagram.com/p/BZ_Z-RIn6kH/?hl=en&taken-by=francocookson

Will Hunt

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#7624 Re: significant repeats
October 09, 2017, 11:41:13 am
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