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significant repeats (Read 4232903 times)

duncan

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#7475 Re: significant repeats
May 23, 2017, 10:09:47 am
Thanks all. The peg is still in, mainly cos I'm not sure of the best way to get it out cleanly and didn't want to piss anyone off that's trying it. But I did chop the threads and remove all the 'stuck' wires and the cord on the peg and chose not to clip it so that hopefully there's no excuse to replace it. All gear placed on lead (first time?).

As I said, peg still in for now but would welcome thoughts on removing it and will do so if people think that's best thing to do?

Well done!

As someone who will never go on the route, my vote is for taking the peg out. I don't think fixed hard steel pegs have a role in sea cliff climbing and it shouldn't make a difference if the route is E1, E5, or E9.

It’s going to be tricky to remove a 21 year-old peg in one piece. You’ve seen the piton so will have a much better idea how realistic this is. You need a heavy hammer, funkness device (wire sling), and (optionally) a chisel. A chain of carabiners is a substitute for the funkness device. I can lend you any of the kit if it helps.



Many suggest using the funkness device to jerk the piton out backwards, as the picture implies. This is the standard approach to cleaning a recently placed piton. You can try this but the following may be more effective at removing the whole peg in one go.

Position yourself waist level with the peg and lock off your grigri. Clip your harness to the piton via the funkness, all your weight still on the grigri. Pull directly outwards on the peg by pushing hard with your legs. Whilst applying outwards force, gently tap the head of the peg side-to-side, trying to loosen the whole thing rather than snap the head off. A chisel or centre punch can be used to direct blows to the body of the piton, if accessible, rather than the head. Or breaking up the remains if the head snaps off.

Apologies if this is teaching you to suck eggs. It's no big deal if you do break the head off, you will have probably saved someone an unpleasant surprise or worse.

jwi

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#7476 Re: significant repeats
May 23, 2017, 10:30:35 am
Interview with Alex Megos on planetmountain now as well.

ali k

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#7477 Re: significant repeats
May 23, 2017, 02:12:05 pm

Apologies if this is teaching you to suck eggs.


Thanks Duncan. Not at all - I have absolutely no experience in taking them out so good to learn. I'm possibly back there this wknd so might get it out then, unless anyone has a strong preference not to?

ferret

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#7478 Re: significant repeats
May 24, 2017, 12:42:41 pm

Apologies if this is teaching you to suck eggs.


Thanks Duncan. Not at all - I have absolutely no experience in taking them out so good to learn. I'm possibly back there this wknd so might get it out then, unless anyone has a strong preference not to?

If you know anybody in the rope access world who could loan you an eye bolt pull tester, this could potentially be a quick and easy job

dave

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#7479 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2017, 08:33:45 am
Looks like Irish Si has done Divided Years. Not bad considering he lives half way round the world now.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BUe06JPFBZL/?taken-by=simoore

Doylo

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#7480 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2017, 09:16:32 am
Looks like Irish Si has done Divided Years. Not bad considering he lives half way round the world now.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BUe06JPFBZL/?taken-by=simoore

He only had a few spare days to get it done too.

dave

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#7481 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2017, 09:37:44 am
Yeah it's quite some holiday tick.

fatneck

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#7482 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2017, 10:29:12 am
Effort!

Danny

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#7483 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2017, 10:19:38 pm
Great work Si. I believe it also got an FFA from Florence Pinet, but don't quote me on that (living in Cornwall has me outta the Ireland loop).

willackers

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#7484 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2017, 01:36:40 am
Amazing effort! That's definitely a dream route to do.

rosmat

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#7485 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2017, 06:51:32 pm
John McCune, Divided Years.

abarro81

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#7487 Re: significant repeats
June 20, 2017, 08:21:14 pm
Dave Mason has done A Simple Knowing 8B+ and formerly 8C at the Topside boulders near Cape Town.  :strongbench:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BVkbQcrlMTe/?taken-by=davidmason85

Coops_13

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#7488 Re: significant repeats
June 22, 2017, 09:56:11 am
 Charles Albert has repeated Monkey Wedding 8C a few days ago. Saw him trying it with no pads, crazy seeing him crimp with his toes...

dave

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#7489 Re: significant repeats
June 22, 2017, 09:57:31 am
Is Monkey Wedding another failed Alan Partridge pitches?

SA Chris

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#7490 Re: significant repeats
June 23, 2017, 11:10:30 am
Is Monkey Wedding another failed Alan Partridge pitches?

No, South African name for when it rains and is sunny at the same time (from the Zulu name apparently, which I didn't know)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunshower

petejh

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#7491 Re: significant repeats
June 28, 2017, 03:22:13 pm
Am I the only one who's noticed that Barbara Zangerl has flashed Point Blank? Also ascents of Do You Know Where your Children Are? and Chubacabra by others..

Doylo

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#7492 Re: significant repeats
June 28, 2017, 03:57:36 pm
They're in North Wales now but it's pissing down until the weekend.

T_B

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#7493 Re: significant repeats
June 28, 2017, 04:36:24 pm
 
Am I the only one who's noticed that Barbara Zangerl has flashed Point Blank?

Sellers did it recently and reckoned it's overgraded and more like F7c/E7. So a good effort but not exactly significant?

Fiend

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#7494 Re: significant repeats
June 28, 2017, 04:39:48 pm
Flashing is goooood mmmmmkay  :2thumbsup:

Stu Littlefair

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#7495 Re: significant repeats
June 28, 2017, 05:00:00 pm
Nic's grading skills haven't improved with age then. 7c?!?


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Neil F

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#7496 Re: significant repeats
June 28, 2017, 05:01:56 pm
Quote from: T_B

Sellers did it recently and reckoned it's overgraded.....

Yeah, but I bet he deployed natural ability and flair (as usual).....

Coops_13

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#7497 Re: significant repeats
June 28, 2017, 05:16:25 pm

Doylo

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#7498 Re: significant repeats
June 28, 2017, 06:00:06 pm
Nic's grading skills haven't improved with age then. 7c?!?


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That's what I was thinking. Notorious sandbagger says route is overgraded. 

ali k

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#7499 Re: significant repeats
June 28, 2017, 06:28:50 pm
I'm pretty sure she did Chupacabra too, along with the others. FWIW I think Nic isn't far off with his thoughts on Point Blank. E7 is about right, though maybe 7c/+. It's a grade easier than other E8s thereabouts like Do you know where your children are? Mercia Wall and Chupacabra.

Still an incredible effort!

 

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