[JonB]

Lonnie Kauk did the first repeat of Magic Line just before the new year for the father/son first/second ascent, news seems to have flown under the radar a bit: https://www.instagram.com/p/BO24tFzBJMj/?taken-by=lonniekauk&hl=en

[submaximal gains]

Metanoia on the North face of the Eiger, originally climbed by Jeff Lowe in 1991 has had its first repeat by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli. It was their third attempt at the route. It's a significant route for being hard, but also the story of its first ascent is quite interesting and was eventually made into a film:

http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/jeff-lowe-eiger-metanoia-finally-repeated-by-thomas-huber-stephan-siegrist-and-roger-schaeli.html

An annotated topo of the route
http://jeffloweclimber.com/jeff-lowes-metanoia-route.html

The film's trailer

[andy popp]

Ron Kauk's Yosemite test piece Magic Line gets its second after twenty years, at the hands of Kauk's son Lonnie:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/70896/magic_line_8c_repeated_after_20_years

Pretty cool. Now he needs to go and do Beth Rodden's The Meltdown.

[SA Chris]

Can't believe it hasn't had a repeat, likewise Meltdown.

[fatneck]

What a freakin massive legend...

[jwi]

The year before, in 1995, Ron Kauk became the first american to climb 8c with “Burn 4 you” in Frankenjura. On the FA of Magic Line Kauk had a few pre-placed pieces iirc.

[T_B]

I remember that. And wasn't it his 40th birthday or something? I remember thinking wow good effort for an old man

[Jerry Morefat]

The year before, in 1995, Ron Kauk became the first american to climb 8c with “Burn 4 you” in Frankenjura. On the FA of Magic Line Kauk had a few pre-placed pieces iirc.

I hadn't realised that American sports climbing standards lagged the euro standard by so much back then. A number of Europeans must have climbed 8c+/9a by 1995. Who was the first American to climb 9a and when?

[cheque]

The first 14d in America was apparently Kryptonite by Tommy Caldwell in 1999. I'm having a hard time finding whether he or any other Americans had climbed 9a abroad before then though.

Apparently Boone Speed did a 14b called Super Tweak in 1994 which would make him the first to climb 8c, not Ron Kauk.

[Durbs]

Does Fausey's repeat of Wheel of Chaos count as significant?

Her send go looks really solid.


Minus points for music IMO

[Duma]

Ages ago wasn't it? Def significant though.

[Tommy]

Can't believe it hasn't had a repeat, likewise Meltdown.

It's because it's fricking hard. Me, Pete and Nico Fav have all had a go (prob a load of others as well) and thought it incredibly hard and very on-off. It's hard even pulling on to the rock to start a sequence, let alone do the sequence! I did an interview with Beth afterwards and she was still convinced that someone would say it was 5.12.... which I stressed was impossible.... but you could see she still had that doubt. Amazing person to interview - really down to earth attitude.

[SA Chris]

Did you try both?

[Duma]

Dan Turner's done Pinky Perky says his instagram.

[Nibile]

Leg End.

[jwi]

According to Fanatic Climbing, Stefano Ghisolfi has repeated First round first minute, 9b in Margalef. Significant, since there are only six climbers who has, without a shadow of doubt, done a 9b route. (Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra, Jacob Shubert Alex Megos, Sachi Amma and now also Stephano Gisolfi)

[edited. reason: added JS to 9b climbers]

[haydn jones]

Ethan pringle jumbo love

[jwi]

Not without a doubt a 9b route... Only one repeat and first and only in the grade for the repeater (Ethan Pringle). Very likely a 9b though... don't know a single hard (i.e ≥9a+) Sharma route that has been downgraded.

[Duma]

vid on his FB - not sure if link will work?

https://www.facebook.com/gizosty?hc_ref=NEWSFEED

[Danny]

Not a drop knee in sight. Disgraceful.

[haydn jones]

Irish Dave flashed stuie 5 bellies today as his 2nd problem on the board. Thought it deserved to be here. As its only ever had 2 flashes before

[Stu Littlefair]

I hope he's tall


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[haydn jones]

nope he's really short

[Stu Littlefair]

Well, I cried myself to sleep


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[Mark Lloyd]

Well, I cried myself to sleep

Are you the problem creator, or the stu with 5 bellies, I suspect stu 6 pack is more likely