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significant repeats (Read 4243962 times)

bigtuboflard

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#6300 Re: significant repeats
August 28, 2015, 12:08:26 pm
I'd be well chuffed if 9a+ felt like a 10k run....

I'd be well chuffed if a 10k run took me 38 minutes!!!!!!!!
good point, so would I!!

Doylo

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#6301 Re: significant repeats
August 28, 2015, 05:09:02 pm

bendavison

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#6302 Re: significant repeats
August 29, 2015, 08:27:03 am
Alex Megos repeated Ondra's "Thors Hammer", 9a+, in the Flatanger Cave yesterday.

And now by Jakob Schubert (from facebook: https://www.facebook.com/jakobschubert90/photos/a.560552980641909.1073741827.559499794080561/986371268060076/?type=1&theater)

Quote from: Jakob Schubert
"THORS HAMMER"! Got the 3rd ascent of this amazing 9a+ in the Flatanger cave today! 60m of super steep climbing with some big rests took quite some energy and after struggling with some wet holds I'm very excited I could top out this magestic line.


Nibile

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#6303 Re: significant repeats
August 29, 2015, 09:13:47 am
Meanwhile, at Raven Tor, Hubble is waiting...

abarro81

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#6304 Re: significant repeats
August 29, 2015, 09:20:11 am
Meanwhile, at Raven Tor, Hubble is shit...

Nibile

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Fiend

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#6306 Re: significant repeats
August 29, 2015, 09:51:28 am
Shit, bitch, you just got Latined  :boxing:

Still though. Magnificent? Uhmmm hmmmm.

petejh

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Doylo

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#6308 Re: significant repeats
August 30, 2015, 11:59:15 am
Only hommes jibe Hubble.

jwi

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#6309 Re: significant repeats
August 30, 2015, 12:33:27 pm
The Indian Face of ukbouldering

jwi

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#6310 Re: significant repeats
August 30, 2015, 05:00:54 pm
Robbie Phillips and Willis Morris have repeated Paciencia on Eiger. Meanwhile, team Adidas did something else.

Quote from: Willis Morris
WE DID IT!!!
After Months of planning, weeks of preparation on other large alpine faces, then days of intense effort on the wall, we have finally completed the hardest route on the Eiger's north face. 'Paciencia'.
Source

Muenchener

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#6311 Re: significant repeats
August 30, 2015, 09:26:38 pm
The Indian Face of ukbouldering

Ooh. Harsh.

westyb3

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#6312 Re: significant repeats
September 02, 2015, 06:28:58 pm
The Baker has just climbed Superman Sit.


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cowboyhat

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#6313 Re: significant repeats
September 02, 2015, 06:40:38 pm
Is that a new problem? Superduperman?

Or is it just harder than Superman?

Sasquatch

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#6314 Re: significant repeats
September 02, 2015, 06:54:21 pm
It's more impressive to me that he did in mocassym's...

monkey boy

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#6315 Re: significant repeats
September 02, 2015, 07:08:29 pm
It's more impressive to me that he did in mocassym's...

I seem to remember someone saying he found the heel worked really well on them.

Doylo

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#6316 Re: significant repeats
September 02, 2015, 08:21:57 pm
What grades the sit then?

monkey boy

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#6317 Re: significant repeats
September 02, 2015, 08:39:13 pm
I think 8B+ but not sure. What did Moon give it? Although it's a very different boulder now I know.

CWP tried it a lot, he could lap Superman but never got it done. I have tried it a bit and it definitely adds difficulty to Superman. Maybe V6 into it but just makes the setup for the first move a lot trickier. I am sure it depends what beta is used on Superman etc.

Doylo

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#6318 Re: significant repeats
September 02, 2015, 08:53:46 pm
He did Superman then did the sit next go.

monkey boy

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#6319 Re: significant repeats
September 02, 2015, 09:05:04 pm
I know! The moves aren't hard into it and I think if you use the heel on superman it makes it much more reliable. CWP was trying it with just a toe. Plus Ned is climbing really well at the moment. Who knows.....

He said it was freak conditions down there as well.
« Last Edit: September 02, 2015, 09:21:50 pm by monkey boy »

a dense loner

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#6320 Re: significant repeats
September 02, 2015, 09:49:31 pm
Beast! Be interesting to hear what he thought of the grade since he gave the sit start to intense at burbage South 8a+ but thought it was harder than the ace and voyager  :shrug:

To be fair to the mad Aussie it was perma muddy under the roof so every time he brought his feet out they'd be caked in varying degrees of crap

Andy B

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#6321 Re: significant repeats
September 02, 2015, 11:18:23 pm
Quote
He said it was freak conditions down there as well.

Conditions were average to fair at best.

Nibile

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#6322 Re: significant repeats
September 03, 2015, 10:15:28 am
 :dance1:
Brilliant!

Luke Owens

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#6323 Re: significant repeats
September 09, 2015, 11:39:33 pm
Ned's repeated Malc's Start! Beast!


Doylo

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#6324 Re: significant repeats
September 10, 2015, 09:28:31 am
Awesome Ned. The heel beta is a little bit of a shame but that's climbing and you never know it might get me up Pools one day :thumbsup: I'll never do the original big move.

 

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