[Doylo]

Yes he doesn't seem like a kneebar kind of guy. Katzy's trying it again at the mo. Don't think he thinks it's soft, given that he did Voyager in about 2 seconds and he's been trying this for years.

[Kingy]

I bumped into Tom at Tremeirchion after his send of Directors. He said it was sans kneebars. I reminded him he should be in the pub! 

[Doylo]

That's why he's a wad. No pub, straight to Trem for a 8A warm down. I was a bit shocked he thought Tracks sit was 8A+/B. Looks solid 8B of anyone's money.

[turnipturned]

I was a bit shocked he thought Tracks sit was 8A+/B. Looks solid 8B of anyone's money.

I agree.

Him and Dom are killing it at the moment!

[Whyatt]

How many ascents is that now for director's cut chris?

[Doylo]

Fuck let me think? Cassidy, Malc, Dyer, Robins, Parry, Wheelbarrows, Williams. I think Andy Earl did it too but not 100% sure.

[Whyatt]

Danny still dropping the end?

[Doylo]

Not since about 8 years ago.

[monkey boy]

That's why he's a wad. No pub, straight to Trem for a 8A warm down. I was a bit shocked he thought Tracks sit was 8A+/B. Looks solid 8B of anyone's money.

More surprised he logged 36 Chambers sit as 8a 

I was a bit shocked he thought Tracks sit was 8A+/B. Looks solid 8B of anyone's money.

I agree.

Him and Dom are killing it at the moment!

Agreed, they are very psyched and crushing at the moment! Good lads!

[turnipturned]

From 8a.nu,  Dawid Skoczylas did Serendipity (8B+), looks like he did Serenade a few week back as well, maybe Mike new 8C could will see a repeat?

[jwi]

Nalle Hukkataival has made the first repeat of l'Alchimiste in Apremont. The problem was originally graded 8B by Marc Le Menestrel at the time of the first ascent in 1997, but it soon lost one of its holds in a mysterious hold chopping incident.

Source: Hukkataival's instagram

[Duma]

Boom!

[GCW]

That photo in the Font guide always looked good.

[cofe]

Ace. Was it in Bleau that Marc does it? Might still have it on VHS somewhere.

[slackline]

Ace. Was it in Bleau that Marc does it? Might still have it on VHS somewhere.

[Wood FT]

From 8a.nu,  Dawid Skoczylas did Serendipity (8B+), looks like he did Serenade a few week back as well, maybe Mike new 8C could will see a repeat?

Nice one Dawid, hard!

[Jaspersharpe]

Ace. Was it in Bleau that Marc does it? Might still have it on VHS somewhere.

Cool story about the FA. And as with everything he did, when he did it it looked about 6B. Another amazing effort by Nalle!

[Doylo]

From 8a.nu,  Dawid Skoczylas did Serendipity (8B+), looks like he did Serenade a few week back as well, maybe Mike new 8C could will see a repeat?

Nice one Dawid, hard!

 

Almost classes as a honorary Brit now.

[Nibile]

Shame about missing the obvious sitter starting from the low crack/seam. Those French and their frenchstarts...
Pah.

[jwi]

Cool story about the FA. And as with everything he did, when he did it it looked about 6B. Another amazing effort by Nalle!

It still looks effortless when he climbs

[a dense loner]

Awesome stuff!

[Sloper]

Nalle Hukkataival has made the first repeat of l'Alchimiste in Apremont. The problem was originally graded 8B by Marc Le Menestrel at the time of the first ascent in 1997, but it soon lost one of its holds in a mysterious hold chopping incident.

Source: Hukkataival's instagram

I thought the hold broke rather than was chipped?

[Nibile]

Maybe it's the famous occasion in which that fool broke Fatman, Karma, and other problems with a hammer.

[dave]

Nah it was several years before that I thought.

[mrjonathanr]

Alchimiste at 42mins fyi