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significant repeats (Read 4233964 times)

a dense loner

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#5550 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2015, 02:43:44 pm
I haven't mentioned one thing about what Ned's done in font.

Moo

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#5551 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2015, 02:59:30 pm
Neds done two 8b+s in font?

Paul B

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#5552 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2015, 05:24:16 pm
Triple Champ!

Quote from: UKC
Ned Feehally is currently in Fontainebleau, France where he has so far had an impressive run of form - climbing an 8C and an 8B+ in one day.

Quote from: Some guy who bakes
"Both these problems went down fairly fast. I had a go on our first day here, rested a day and went back and finished them off the next day. Lucky really since it's been raining a load since then!"

Is it just me that finds the "in a day" thing a bit misleading/unnecessary in this instance? Furthermore, there's no need on something as impressive as this to be even the slightest bit misleading, it speaks for itself.

You could take this kind of thing to stupid levels and say "X did Y in 23 seconds" if you wished as that's how long it actually took to do the final deed (  :lets_do_it_wild: ). We measure redpoints, seiges etc. in days, we do not measure the final output as it's meaningless.

I note Alan is posting over here ( :wave: ) atm so hopefully this isn't seen as simply trying to get a rise.

/pedant

petejh

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#5553 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2015, 07:41:09 pm
I don't get the impression ukc's report is deliberately misleading. Consider what other ways there are to word it that get across the story that a climber has done two v.hard problems on the same day:
- '8B+ and 8C on the same day for Joe Blogs' - Sounds clumsy.
- '8B+ and 8C in a day for Joe Blogs' -  Sounds better.

Maybe I'm naive when it comes to bouldering?

That said I think not bothering spending time confirming whether a groundbreaking female winter ascent was headpointed or done ground-up before reporting it - instead letting the online scrum bash it out and create valuable click-bait - much more the par for the course for ukc's piss-poor standard of climbing journalism.

edit: extract piss
« Last Edit: February 27, 2015, 07:48:57 pm by petejh »

Sloper

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#5554 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2015, 07:56:17 pm
I think you're being kind Peter, it is shit reporting, almost Guardianesque.

Note not in any ay undermining the superb effort, genuinely world class.

Paul B

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#5555 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2015, 08:19:17 pm
I don't get the impression ukc's report is deliberately misleading. Consider what other ways there are to word it that get across the story that a climber has done two v.hard problems on the same day:
- '8B+ and 8C on the same day for Joe Blogs' - Sounds clumsy.
- '8B+ and 8C in a day for Joe Blogs' -  Sounds better.

Perhaps, like I said it's just me but in a day to me, means first tried, and finished in the same day (I read it with that expectation). Consider if someone had been sieging a problem for a long time and then did another the day he finally succeeded on the first. The same headline could apply.

"Joe Blogs makes light work of"
"Quick repeats of X for Joe Blogs" etc.

anyhow, off-topic

Fultonius

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#5556 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2015, 09:13:34 pm
I'd count it as "in a day" if he'd been there all night trying and did it in the morning. If he went to bed, no chance!  ;)

kelvin

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#5557 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2015, 09:15:42 pm
They really should report cake breaks - that'd sort things.

IanP

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#5558 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2015, 10:22:56 pm
Not wanting to be argumentative or anything but I think you guys could sometimes do with taking a deep breath before the the knee jerk UKC slagging.

Quote from: beastmaker facebook page
Ned Feehally had a flippin' good day in Fontainebleau today!
Not only did he climb Jour De Chasse (pictured) he also crushed Mecanique Elementaire.

That's two 8b+'s in a day isn't it?! gasp emoticon

Wild Country
Photo taken by Shaggy
source : https://www.facebook.com/beastmaker.co.uk

Jaspersharpe

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#5559 Re: significant repeats
March 01, 2015, 12:14:32 am
As long as he did the downclimb on the same day surely both ascents are legitimate. You fucking idiots.

Fultonius

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#5560 Re: significant repeats
March 01, 2015, 01:42:43 am
As long as he did the downclimb on the same day surely both ascents are legitimate. You fucking idiots.

 :lol:

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#5561 Re: significant repeats
March 01, 2015, 10:47:50 am
I don't get the impression ukc's report is deliberately misleading. Consider what other ways there are to word it that get across the story that a climber has done two v.hard problems on the same day:
- '8B+ and 8C on the same day for Joe Blogs' - Sounds clumsy.
- '8B+ and 8C in a day for Joe Blogs' -  Sounds better.

Perhaps, like I said it's just me but in a day to me, means first tried, and finished in the same day (I read it with that expectation). Consider if someone had been sieging a problem for a long time and then did another the day he finally succeeded on the first. The same headline could apply.

"Joe Blogs makes light work of"
"Quick repeats of X for Joe Blogs" etc.

anyhow, off-topic

Sorry about the  :off topic: , but is it only me that gets really pissed off with the "8b+ for joe Bloggs" thing?  Why is it for?? Sod off.

Sloper

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#5562 Re: significant repeats
March 01, 2015, 11:37:28 am
There's already a discussion for grammar pedantry

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#5563 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2015, 07:50:52 am
Well, it's been a while!  I'm with Jasper and Sloper on this.  It's an outstanding effort on any countries World-class scale.  The only difference being, that is in any other country they wouldn't be slagging off the reporting.  They would be to busy bowing down.  Hey - thats the UK for you huh?   Hats off to Ned - boss effort.

turnipturned

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#5564 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2015, 09:13:13 am
From 8a.nu looks like Tom Williams did Directors Cut on Sunday. Good effort to that man.

(Background: From Warrington, young, strong, big arms, does lots of 8B's, fly's under radar)

Doylo

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#5565 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2015, 09:16:38 am
Noticed that he called it soft. Was always regarded as a hard 8B back in day. Too strong!

abarro81

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#5566 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2015, 09:20:33 am
Guess this is knee-less?

Doylo

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#5567 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2015, 09:23:55 am
I'm guessing so but the grade would depend on if you kneebarred 1 ,3 or no moves!

a dense loner

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#5568 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2015, 09:24:36 am
Good job I wasn't eating then!

abarro81

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#5569 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2015, 09:28:33 am
I'm guessing so but the grade would depend on if you kneebarred 1 ,3 or no moves!

Na. One grade for using the tricks and one as an elim is just about understandable, but let's not start having 'hard 8b with no knees, soft 8b with one knee, 8a+ with 2 knees...' That shit would make pinches wall look like a striking set of independent lines.

Doylo

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#5570 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2015, 09:29:57 am
I know that you lanky freak but his beta would affect what he thought of the grade (obvs). And we don't know his beta.

a dense loner

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#5571 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2015, 09:33:47 am
Doylo calling someone lanky, I lv it you couldn't make it up.

abarro81

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#5572 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2015, 09:33:56 am
Oh right yeah, though you were suggesting that it should be given about 13 different grades in a guide

Doylo

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#5573 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2015, 09:35:22 am
No I don't like it getting 2 grades but it's seems the way to go on that problem.
Doylo calling someone lanky, I lv it you couldn't make it up.
This guy makes me feel small (in more ways than 1!).

turnipturned

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#5574 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2015, 09:39:08 am
And we don't know his beta.

Not sure, wouldn't surprise me if it was with kneebar-less (Cool speak: OG Method on that rig yo), the lad has got good power endurance.

 

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