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significant repeats (Read 4240756 times)

Wood FT

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#4825 Re: significant repeats
July 28, 2014, 11:48:53 am
what he said

Obi-Wan is lost...

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#4826 Re: significant repeats
July 28, 2014, 01:33:15 pm
It does look amazing. What are the trip logistics like?

Fly to Trondheim from London with SAS (daily flights)? Drive 3hrs north. Stay here... http://www.climbflatanger.com/accommodation/ Easy. Looks nice.

gme

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#4827 Re: significant repeats
July 28, 2014, 06:14:15 pm
Logistics are easy. We flew to Amsterdam from Newcastle then on to Trondheim with KLM. 200 notes and about 4 1/2 hours including 1/12 at Schipol. Alan and the Scottish mob came from Glasgow and met us at Schipol. You can go direct to Trondheim from Gatwick.

From there its a 2 1/2 hr drive to Flatanger. Once there you are sorted and wouldn't need a car if you only climbed at the main crags, if you want to go to the bouldering areas you need one, however as the valley is basically covered in house size and smaller boulders that no one has yet climbed on i suggest you could be kept happy there. Lauvsnes is about 3 miles away and has a supermarket, easy hitch if you need to.

There is a camp site below the crag Olaf and Berit Strom are trying to attract more people to the area so are bolting more and more routes. The site is £7.50 a night with usual facilities plus a kitchen and fridges etc. There is also a barn to hang out in if its pissing down. They also rent out rooms at around £25 per person per night. We rented a house nearby for £15 PP per night, walking distance from the crag.

Its really not about the hard routes, 70% of the camp site guests don't even climb in the cave. I personally wouldn't go for just the valley crags but it makes the trip better for mixed groups who have people climbing in the 6s.

I have now spent 14 days there, not all climbing, and only had one day of rain. It was in the 30s when we arrived and whilst not ideal you could climb in the cave. it never dropped below 20 and didnt seam to stop Ben. There are a few midge but not at all an issue, Stanage is worse.

I am already looking to book the family for 3 weeks next summer and suspect Ben and Alan will be back, thats if Ben has any routes left to do????

JMB

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#4828 Re: significant repeats
July 28, 2014, 06:42:35 pm
I am already looking to book the family for 3 weeks next summer and suspect Ben and Alan will be back, thats if Ben has any routes left to do????

Move, Change, Project Big...

dave

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#4829 Re: significant repeats
July 28, 2014, 06:43:24 pm
Good effort. And I've only just realised I've been mentally misreading Ben's username as "benda vision" all this time.

finbarrr

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#4830 Re: significant repeats
July 28, 2014, 07:34:53 pm
Good effort. And I've only just realised I've been mentally misreading Ben's username as "benda vision" all this time.

hehehe, me too!

moose

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#4831 Re: significant repeats
July 28, 2014, 09:06:37 pm
Good effort. And I've only just realised I've been mentally misreading Ben's username as "benda vision" all this time.

"benda vision" .... brought to you by the inventors of Gaydar!

Oldmanmatt

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#4832 Re: significant repeats
July 28, 2014, 09:22:43 pm
I like the concept of " low 8's"...


Low Fu#%^g 8's!

Jaspersharpe

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#4833 Re: significant repeats
July 28, 2014, 10:27:14 pm
How it is now mate. We'd say "low 7s" when the hardest route was 8b+.

The hardest route is now 9b+. Same thing.

gme

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#4834 Re: significant repeats
July 29, 2014, 03:52:41 pm
Another tick for Ben Davison. Muy verdes which was 8c+ but he thinks low
8c with good beta.
Totally different style to eye of Odin. Two boulder problems separated by a rest to a 7b. 10 -12m of hard climbing. Still very high quality especially the first boulder which looks class.

Doylo

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#4835 Re: significant repeats
July 29, 2014, 05:33:17 pm
10 -12m of hard climbing.

Now you're talking!  :strongbench:

JackAus

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#4836 Re: significant repeats
July 30, 2014, 01:20:45 am
Megoswad in Rocklands.

"After 3 days of rain we finally had 2 really good days over here in the Rocklands! Yesterday I scrambled my way up "The Vice" (Fb 8B) which I have been trying already the last trip 2 years ago. So definitely got stronger the last 2 years  After doing The Vice I also did "The Vice President" (Fb 8B) and "Armed Response" (Fb 8A+). Not a bad day some would say
The send train kept on rolling today with a quick ascent of "Golden Shadow" (Fb 8B+, I would give it 8B) and "Amandla" (Fb 8B+). Both sent in under half an hour each. Psyched!!!"

From his FB.

Doylo

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#4837 Re: significant repeats
July 30, 2014, 07:15:54 am
Brave man for trying to downgrade Ashima!

slackline

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#4838 Re: significant repeats
July 30, 2014, 07:33:25 am
Brave man for trying to downgrade Ashima!

I wouldn't be surprised if he found a different sequence, he's probably about twice her height. 

petejh

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#4839 Re: significant repeats
July 30, 2014, 02:34:36 pm
Needed two goes on Statement though didn't he, punter.

JackAus

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#4840 Re: significant repeats
July 31, 2014, 11:38:04 pm
More Megoswad.

"Another very successful day for me in the Rocklands! Could do two personal projects which I couldn't do two years ago: Oral Office 8A+ and Leopard Cave 8A+.
Surprisingly I also could climb "King of Limbs" 8B+ on my first session today after finding some good foot beta!"

JMB

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#4841 Re: significant repeats
August 01, 2014, 06:27:10 am
According to ClimbingNarc, Angie Payne apparently climbed "Freaks of the Industry" (8B/V13) in RMNP.

standard

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#4842 Re: significant repeats
August 01, 2014, 09:49:57 am
Young Euan Mcfadyen did The Vice (8B) in Rocklands a few days ago.

turnipturned

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#4843 Re: significant repeats
August 02, 2014, 07:57:24 pm
 Palmtree managed to hold his breath long enough to do Progress (8c+) at Kilnsey today. Hero!

bendavison

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#4844 Re: significant repeats
August 02, 2014, 08:32:34 pm
Palmtree managed to hold his breath long enough to do Progress (8c+) at Kilnsey today. Hero!

Proper good effort! Saw him getting close a few weeks ago so was wondering when he'd get it done.

Stubbs

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#4845 Re: significant repeats
August 02, 2014, 08:36:23 pm
What a legend!

Doylo

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#4846 Re: significant repeats
August 02, 2014, 08:46:41 pm
Palmtree managed to hold his breath long enough to do Progress (8c+) at Kilnsey today. Hero!

Must have been one hell of a exhale as he clipped the chains  :strongbench:

Doylo

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#4847 Re: significant repeats
August 02, 2014, 09:22:45 pm
Good to join the exclusive 8c+/8B club too. Good all round level. List anyone?  :smartass:
« Last Edit: August 02, 2014, 09:28:53 pm by Doylo »

Teaboy

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#4848 Re: significant repeats
August 02, 2014, 09:43:05 pm
Palmtree managed to hold his breath long enough to do Progress (8c+) at Kilnsey today. Hero!

That's great news, the pressure to do it before this rain soaks through must have been immense.

turnipturned

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#4849 Re: significant repeats
August 02, 2014, 09:49:02 pm
 
Good to join the exclusive 8c+/8B club too. Good all round level. List anyone?  :smartass:

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