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Author Topic: significant repeats  (Read 576788 times)

Offline Nibile

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Re: significant repeats
« Reply #3575 on: March 06, 2013, 12:50:53 pm »
Quote from: Paul B on March 06, 2013, 11:55:11 am
Quote from: Nizza on March 05, 2013, 02:36:10 pm
Dave Mason has done Superman, great effort. Vid here.

Nice one Dave but I really hope that video doesn't make it over onto the other channel.
Interesting post Paul, why do you say so?
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I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

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Offline a dense loner

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Re: significant repeats
« Reply #3576 on: March 06, 2013, 12:59:43 pm »
The areas sensitive nibs. I'd be happy to hear your quote regarding cattle again
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theres a lot of big grades goin around at the moment?

Offline Nibile

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Re: significant repeats
« Reply #3577 on: March 06, 2013, 01:08:33 pm »
 ;D repetita iuvant:
Quod licet Iovi non licet bovi...
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I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

the blog http://totolore.blogspot.com/

Offline chillax

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Re: significant repeats
« Reply #3578 on: March 06, 2013, 01:47:22 pm »
Quote from: Nizza on March 05, 2013, 02:36:10 pm
Dave Mason has done Superman, great effort. Vid here: vimeo.com/61087896

That video made me smile, but not for the climbing. Lovely. Well done.
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Offline Nibile

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Re: significant repeats
« Reply #3579 on: March 06, 2013, 01:55:22 pm »
Quote from: chillax on March 06, 2013, 01:47:22 pm
Quote from: Nizza on March 05, 2013, 02:36:10 pm
Dave Mason has done Superman, great effort. Vid here: vimeo.com/61087896

That video made me smile, but not for the climbing. Lovely. Well done.
:agree: lovely indeed.
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I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

the blog http://totolore.blogspot.com/

Offline fatneck

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Re: significant repeats
« Reply #3580 on: March 06, 2013, 09:11:12 pm »
Amazing stuff from Alex!! Been waiting to see this done for ages. Good work beast...
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Offline blacky

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Re: significant repeats
« Reply #3581 on: March 07, 2013, 04:01:17 pm »
Nice display of steel by DM.

Big props to Alex too, that is a fine effort! Love the £1000 quid of fuel stat, relating to Malc's ascent, on Doylo's blog too.
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Offline shark

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Re: significant repeats
« Reply #3582 on: March 08, 2013, 04:23:32 pm »
Dave has blogged about climbing Superman

http://www.bigstone.co.uk/news/2013/03/08/SuPERMAN/
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Online butterworthtom

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Re: significant repeats
« Reply #3583 on: March 08, 2013, 04:31:40 pm »
Nice write up. It's was interesting to hear why he feels it was the most important climb of his life, it makes it sound like he did it very quickly as well.
Well done Dave!  :strongbench:
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Offline a dense loner

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Re: significant repeats
« Reply #3584 on: March 08, 2013, 04:48:10 pm »
I don't normally read blogs since the ones I have are mostly in some way egotistical drivel but that was a good write-up dave
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theres a lot of big grades goin around at the moment?

Online Jaspersharpe

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Re: significant repeats
« Reply #3585 on: March 08, 2013, 04:49:53 pm »
I agree. Completely understand the sentiment too. I love that place.
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Offline gme

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Re: significant repeats
« Reply #3586 on: March 08, 2013, 05:26:40 pm »
nice little blog. I love the place too, spent weeks of my life down there.

I had no idea it was broken, whats gone? The side pull i guess?
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Online Jaspersharpe

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Re: significant repeats
« Reply #3587 on: March 08, 2013, 09:56:03 pm »
Yeah. Jerry fixed it a couple of years ago but it broke again soon after. Shame cos it was a lovely hold.
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Offline habrich

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Re: significant repeats
« Reply #3588 on: March 09, 2013, 05:28:26 am »
Quote
Superman has changed over the years and after a crucial hold broke it was left to Tim Clifford to re-climb the line in 2004 using a minute left hand crimp.
On the subject of Tim Clifford problems, his Singularity here in Squamish is still unrepeated AFAIK, despite being just a few minutes from the car park in one of the most popular bouldering areas in North America.
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Offline shurt

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Re: significant repeats
« Reply #3589 on: March 09, 2013, 01:27:51 pm »
As a ex resident of Yorkshire I was always under the impression thay he was one of the strongest out there, just never sought the publicity. I have a memory that that project was one of the reasons he moved out there? Not sure Cold Fusion in NZ has had a repeat either. Think its undergraded at v11 or 12...
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Online Jaspersharpe

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Re: significant repeats
« Reply #3590 on: March 09, 2013, 01:41:47 pm »
The Singularity looks amazing.

Quote from: shurt on March 09, 2013, 01:27:51 pm
I have a memory that that project was one of the reasons he moved out there?


Yeah: http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/escaping-the-quantum-hole
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Online jwi

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Re: significant repeats
« Reply #3591 on: March 10, 2013, 06:03:24 pm »
Matilda Söderlund did Pati Noso, 8c/+ in Siurana today. Can't say I am surprised. She dogged it with 2 hangs yesterday afternoon (having tried the route briefly last year) and tried it twice, but fell on the last move on the 2nd rp-attempt. Apparently it all went well today.



Pati Noso - Matilda Söderlund by Jonas Wiklund, on Flickr
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Offline Kingy

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Re: significant repeats
« Reply #3592 on: March 10, 2013, 10:08:56 pm »
Thats awesome, having stood under that thing recently, it is very steep and long. I wonder out of interest how it compares to Mind Control, I would guess perhaps a bit harder
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Online abarro81

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Re: significant repeats
« Reply #3593 on: March 10, 2013, 10:16:11 pm »
Quote from: Kingy on March 10, 2013, 10:08:56 pm
I wonder out of interest how it compares to Mind Control, I would guess perhaps a bit harder
The downgrade floodgates on that opened after Reffo Silvio flashed it. Lots of people giving it 8c now.
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Offline shark

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Re: significant repeats
« Reply #3594 on: March 11, 2013, 06:50:00 pm »
Oli Grounsell (18?) posted on Facebook that he did the Zone today
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Offline Gritlad

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Re: significant repeats
« Reply #3595 on: March 11, 2013, 07:05:50 pm »
Quote from: shark on March 11, 2013, 06:50:00 pm
Oli Grounsell (18?) posted on Facebook that he did the Zone today

He pissed the Zone today, amazing effort! Should be a film up soon ish from Guy VG?
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Offline GuyVG

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Re: significant repeats
« Reply #3596 on: March 11, 2013, 07:23:16 pm »
Quote from: Gritlad on March 11, 2013, 07:05:50 pm
Quote from: shark on March 11, 2013, 06:50:00 pm
Oli Grounsell (18?) posted on Facebook that he did the Zone today

He pissed the Zone today, amazing effort! Should be a film up soon ish from Guy VG?

Yep, on the way. Nice one Oli, fucking freezing today.
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Offline c3po

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Re: significant repeats
« Reply #3597 on: March 12, 2013, 03:28:05 pm »
Think Pasquil's done Vacuna Matata F8c+/9a at Margalef.  :strongbench:
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Offline IanP

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Re: significant repeats
« Reply #3598 on: March 12, 2013, 04:25:50 pm »
Quote from: c3po on March 12, 2013, 03:28:05 pm
Think Pasquil's done Vacuna Matata F8c+/9a at Margalef.  :strongbench:


Think its Vacunamatata at Siurana:

http://en.belclimb.be/rock/news/nicolas-favresse-sends-vacunamatata-in-siurana

Looks thin and hard, 10m of hard climbing after an 8c+ sounds a bit harsh for a slash grade!
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Offline c3po

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Re: significant repeats
« Reply #3599 on: March 13, 2013, 06:04:43 pm »
Pasquil on a blank wall with no holds, good to see he's widening his variety from Raven Tor then. :lol:
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