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significant repeats (Read 4233015 times)

tim palmer

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#7775 Re: significant repeats
April 01, 2018, 11:12:49 pm
Don’t think firefight or supersize me were career definining things were they. Not like Hubble, hunger, monk life, pilgrimage or the kyloe thing.
Other biggies to me were Dreamtime and 2nd overall in World Cup.
Perky pinky was pretty major as well. Certainly more than the funny things in my mind.
I wouldn't speak for anyone else, objectively they are hard problems with one or no repeats

remus

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#7776 Re: significant repeats
April 01, 2018, 11:52:12 pm

Sorry off topic but anyone know what happened to Stonesmith?

Straight off the rumour mill, but i think malc and the other chap who ran it went their separate ways and malc is no longer involved.

ferret

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#7777 Re: significant repeats
April 02, 2018, 04:09:35 am
Don’t think firefight or supersize me were career definining things were they. Not like Hubble, hunger, monk life, pilgrimage or the kyloe thing.
Other biggies to me were Dreamtime and 2nd overall in World Cup.
Perky pinky was pretty major as well. Certainly more than the funny things in my mind.
I wouldn't speak for anyone else, objectively they are hard problems with one or no repeats
Another that stood out for me was the near flash of surplomb at vallee de la mee, falling on wet holds at the top, drying them with a towel and doing it 2nd go (if I recall correctly).
This probably stood out for me as I started climbing to a daily diet of the real thing with Marc the Minstrel only able to get up it after harnessing power from scream therapy because it was his leemeet

mrjonathanr

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#7778 Re: significant repeats
April 02, 2018, 10:15:57 am
Thanks Remus, liked those holds, would have bought some.

abarro81

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#7779 Re: significant repeats
April 02, 2018, 01:25:22 pm
An FA rather than a repeat, but Mike Hart did In Hell into Louis Armstrong in the cave yesterday - 8B+  :strongbench:

Doylo

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#7780 Re: significant repeats
April 02, 2018, 05:04:53 pm
An FA rather than a repeat, but Mike Hart did In Hell into Louis Armstrong in the cave yesterday - 8B+  :strongbench:

Then warmed down on Director’s. Not a bad day.

Andy F

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#7781 Re: significant repeats
April 02, 2018, 06:00:12 pm
Psyche needs to pull his finger out and do something that actually stretches him somewhat...

yetix

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#7782 Re: significant repeats
April 02, 2018, 10:14:32 pm
An FA rather than a repeat, but Mike Hart did In Hell into Louis Armstrong in the cave yesterday - 8B+  :strongbench:

Into megos's thing next then?

Adam Lincoln

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#7783 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2018, 12:01:07 pm
An FA rather than a repeat, but Mike Hart did In Hell into Louis Armstrong in the cave yesterday - 8B+  :strongbench:

Fair play not doing In Hell the easy way.

Doylo

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#7784 Re: significant repeats
April 03, 2018, 01:53:44 pm
An FA rather than a repeat, but Mike Hart did In Hell into Louis Armstrong in the cave yesterday - 8B+  :strongbench:

Fair play not doing In Hell the easy way.

The easy way would probably be harder for him. Few more moves too.

mark20

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#7785 Re: significant repeats
April 04, 2018, 09:42:50 am
Franco Cookson flashed the Dave Mac's hard slab route Apophenia at Glen Finnan (E7 6c - originally given E8 7a, but downgraded by Charlie Woodburn) over the bank holiday weekend.
Probably not that significant in the grand scheme of things but as far as I'm aware it is the first hard route Franco has actually repeated, so significant in the sense that it may reassure those who have previously questioned either his ability or grading

Andy F

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#7786 Re: significant repeats
April 04, 2018, 10:16:07 am
I don't know what's more impressive, the fact that Franco flashed E7 (which is a fine effort) or the fact he found a road which leads out of the N. Yorkshire moors  ;D

highrepute

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#7787 Re: significant repeats
April 04, 2018, 10:29:37 am
Franco Cookson flashed the Dave Mac's hard slab route Apophenia at Glen Finnan (E7 6c - originally given E8 7a, but downgraded by Charlie Woodburn) over the bank holiday weekend.
Probably not that significant in the grand scheme of things but as far as I'm aware it is the first hard route Franco has actually repeated, so significant in the sense that it may reassure those who have previously questioned either his ability or grading

Video of Charlie Woodburn on it - looks good and scary.


Will Hunt

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#7788 Re: significant repeats
April 04, 2018, 11:05:35 am
I don't know what's more impressive, the fact that Franco flashed E7 (which is a fine effort) or the fact he found a road which leads out of the N. Yorkshire moors  ;D

To be fair, Andy, if you're local to the NYM and Northumberland, with acre upon acre of outstanding unclimbed lines to be done, why would you bother driving 3 hours south to the Peak district to waste time at heaving crags repeating other people's routes?

Andy F

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#7789 Re: significant repeats
April 04, 2018, 11:10:21 am
Oh, I don't know, maybe to see if my grading was in line with the rest of the known universe, to enjoy quality climbing, to test myself on some national classics, the usual reasons... ::)

andy popp

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#7790 Re: significant repeats
April 04, 2018, 12:19:37 pm
Probably not that significant in the grand scheme of things

This is not a dig at Franco, who I actually have quite a lot of respect for, but surely flashing E7 is no longer significant?

T_B

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#7791 Re: significant repeats
April 04, 2018, 03:23:59 pm
Flashing? What's that then? Seeing someone on it doing the moves? Inspecting the gear and racking accordingly? Looking at the holds, even touching them?

Flashing in respect of trad shouldn't even be considered a thing in this day and age.

remus

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#7792 Re: significant repeats
April 04, 2018, 03:48:57 pm
Flashing? What's that then? Seeing someone on it doing the moves? Inspecting the gear and racking accordingly? Looking at the holds, even touching them?

Flashing in respect of trad shouldn't even be considered a thing in this day and age.

At the risk of getting a bit UKC, I think it covers a fairly natural middle ground. There's a pretty big spectrum of ascent styles (from "eyes closed, naked, in the dark" to "10 years on a top rope, could mold a passable replica in clay") so I reckon there's enough room for three 'levels of knowledge'. I guess the contentious bit is where you draw the boundaries, but as long as people are honest then it doesn't really matter in the long run.

andy popp

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#7793 Re: significant repeats
April 04, 2018, 03:50:16 pm
I was wondering the same thing (as TB); it could cover a multitude of sins, from hearing a bit of secondhand beta about the gear to watching a mate get all the moves and gear absolutely wired. At the very least, I would be surprised if Franco had not see the Charlie Woodburn video.

Personally, I think ground up is still a useful term, though it too covers a multitude of styles.

36chambers

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#7794 Re: significant repeats
April 04, 2018, 04:23:11 pm
Flashing? What's that then? Seeing someone on it doing the moves? Inspecting the gear and racking accordingly? Looking at the holds, even touching them?

I assume the worst unless told otherwise (nothing to do with franco's ascent btw). Checked all the gear, cleaned the holds, watched all the videos, got weaker friends to do the crux, threw weighted bags to test the gear, used a minimum of 6 pads, etc.

Everything but weighting the holds is a flash right? 

highrepute

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#7795 Re: significant repeats
April 04, 2018, 04:24:49 pm
Mark20 can probably confirm but I believe he had seen the video and then climbed the route.

mark20

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#7796 Re: significant repeats
April 04, 2018, 04:31:18 pm
Quote from: Franco facebook post
A good bit of single malt was enjoyed last night, after a magical day on @climbermacleod 's Glen Finnan slab testpiece Apophenia (E7 6c - originally given E8 7a, but I think it's been downgraded?).

I've wanted to visit this bit of rock ever since I saw the video of Dave and Kev Shields on it in 2010. It looked totally my bag and the moves looked fiercely technical, fingery and bold.

It would have been good to try the line Onsight had I not seen the video, but then again I probably wouldn't have had any confidence in the gear etc. So got to be happy with the flash..

The crux is a fairly powerful step through, with a good bit of runout above 2 tiny micro wires, placed sideways. Everything went right and it still felt pretty scary.

After what should be the crux there's a second set of hard moves gaining the groove. I ended up totally Onsight, with no idea how to climb this and burning calves. It's probably been 5 years since I did any proper Onsight climbing and this is why! Up and down, left and right, fully aware that the longer I spent there the last chance I had of getting up it. 15 minutes felt like hours, but eventually success. My first Macleod route! Stoked! Hopefully going back today for a look at the big one..


So sounds like it was more towards the purer end of the vague 'flash' spectrum.
Again, as I said in the first post, it probably isn't that significant to flash an E7 but my point was more that by doing this it gives a bit more weight to the various new E6-10 (?) routes he has claimed over the years. Also this doesn't seem to be a well known soft touch, it's only had a couple of ascents and Dave Mac thought E8 7a.

But point taken, it's not 9a or 8B+, pull yer finger out Franco

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#7797 Re: significant repeats
April 04, 2018, 04:45:54 pm
Abed the line, placed and racked gear, cleaned, touched and ticked crucial-looking holds, Dave Macleod video rewatched on cracked phone screen (hadn't seen this video - would have been useful).  I agree this isn't a significant ascent, but a very fun way to try and climb a line - a millions miles away from both an onsight and a headpoint.

I actually think this line is bolder than Die By The Drop (a lot easier mind). I only found one decent RP to protect the crux and it was sideways (facing the wrong way). For Die By The Drop you have the same RP (plus another tiny one), but it tapers towards you and so can hold a fall. I wouldn't like to risk falling on the RP from Apophenia, as it might pull out towards you. For Die By The Drop, you can also get a couple of RPs in the starting crack (I think this is below where Birkett had his (?))  Either way, the gear is okay.

andy popp

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#7798 Re: significant repeats
April 04, 2018, 05:20:18 pm
Thanks for the details Franco (btw, say hello to your mum - I used to know her in the world of academia).

gme

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#7799 Re: significant repeats
April 04, 2018, 05:35:38 pm
That made me laugh Andy.

"i used to climb with your dad" seems to be my go to phrase at the wall when talking to anyone under 30 these days.

 

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