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significant repeats (Read 4236122 times)

Brown Trousers

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#7575 Re: significant repeats
August 01, 2017, 09:21:13 pm
I agree with the principle that not improving on Ned's / Dan's style is arguably not significant. However I wouldn't trust the UKC news article, the definitive guide shows Andy Earl climbing it above at least 5 medium/large pads with possibly more out of shot (unless it's a repeat ascent for the camera).

Aye, I think the report of Andy Earl's ascent in Climber had a photo of some smiling pad carriers.


Doylo

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#7577 Re: significant repeats
August 08, 2017, 11:36:07 am
That's a good effort. Meaty link. Don't think any other Brits have done that one have they?

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#7578 Re: significant repeats
August 08, 2017, 02:00:39 pm
That's a good effort. Meaty link. Don't think any other Brits have done that one have they?

Doesn't look like any brits have done it no.

Great effort. Proper hard link! Stunning looking Boulder too.

tomtom

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#7579 Re: significant repeats
August 09, 2017, 12:00:37 pm
That's a good effort. Meaty link. Don't think any other Brits have done that one have they?

Doesn't look like any brits have done it no.

Great effort. Proper hard link! Stunning looking Boulder too.

JackPal is being modest - Silk Cut at the Cave.... worth a SigRep mention I recon...

Nice one!


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#7580 Re: significant repeats
August 09, 2017, 09:34:10 pm
That's a good effort. Meaty link. Don't think any other Brits have done that one have they?

Doesn't look like any brits have done it no.

Great effort. Proper hard link! Stunning looking Boulder too.

JackPal is being modest - Silk Cut at the Cave.... worth a SigRep mention I recon...

Nice one!


Haha, cheers. Catch you down at stockport sooner or later no doubt.

T_B

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#7581 Re: significant repeats
September 04, 2017, 02:16:42 pm
Leah Crane - Revelations.

'Only' 8b but sees fewer repeats than Mecca and more impressive than a send of Mecca in some ways.

cowboyhat

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#7582 Re: significant repeats
September 04, 2017, 02:54:13 pm
In which ways?

Wood FT

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#7583 Re: significant repeats
September 04, 2017, 02:54:28 pm
Nice one. Does anyone know how hard is the Boulder problem at the start is?

cowboyhat

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#7584 Re: significant repeats
September 04, 2017, 03:00:07 pm
Easier than Mecca  :P

The boulder is no harder than font 7c, low end really but its very knacky and hard to get right because you're on a rope etc. And Leah is shortish which can't help though Jim Pope did it when he was 5'3"; she isn't that short.

T_B

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#7585 Re: significant repeats
September 04, 2017, 03:10:44 pm
In which ways?

In that fewer people can climb it as that move shuts people down.

Doylo

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#7586 Re: significant repeats
September 04, 2017, 03:26:29 pm
 Thought Mecca was 8b now?

cowboyhat

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#7587 Re: significant repeats
September 04, 2017, 03:33:37 pm
If it is, which I'm not going to comment on, its still harder than Revelations.




Off piste debate thread elsewhere about true grade of Mecca or shall we just file it with the oak chronicles...?

Wood FT

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#7588 Re: significant repeats
September 04, 2017, 05:12:43 pm
Easier than Mecca  :P

The boulder is no harder than font 7c, low end really but its very knacky and hard to get right because you're on a rope etc. And Leah is shortish which can't help though Jim Pope did it when he was 5'3"; she isn't that short.

Ta, I've always dreamt of doing it but got put off hearing short wads being shut down (Stu L?)

Kingy

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#7589 Re: significant repeats
September 04, 2017, 09:47:23 pm
Great effort from Leah  :boxing: The first female ascent I believe. Toby did it last year and he was v short so it can be done by the vertically challenged, take courage Guy!

Ru

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#7590 Re: significant repeats
September 05, 2017, 08:37:43 am
Ta, I've always dreamt of doing it but got put off hearing short wads being shut down (Stu L?)

I think Toby used a horrendous sequence. But you should be ok. I did it fine via a normal ish sequence.

Duma

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#7591 Re: significant repeats
September 06, 2017, 02:07:18 pm
Other channel says Alex Puccio has done New Base Line

jwi

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#7592 Re: significant repeats
September 09, 2017, 09:25:45 pm
All-rounder and fanatic climber Said Belhaj has repeated Squamish “Cobra Crack”

lukeyboy

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#7593 Re: significant repeats
September 18, 2017, 07:24:57 pm
It appears UKB's very own Ali K has repeated The Walk of Life. Wad!

https://www.instagram.com/p/BZMG3hxgc4f/

36chambers

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#7594 Re: significant repeats
September 22, 2017, 08:15:27 pm

Duma

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#7595 Re: significant repeats
September 22, 2017, 09:20:31 pm
Yes! Awesome news!

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bendavison

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#7596 Re: significant repeats
September 25, 2017, 05:02:35 pm
Margo Hayes has done biography/realization!!  :strongbench:

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#7597 Re: significant repeats
September 25, 2017, 05:14:40 pm
... hopefully putting an end to "woman does landmark hard route; cue downgrade discussion" syndrome.

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#7598 Re: significant repeats
September 25, 2017, 05:22:49 pm
... hopefully putting an end to "woman does landmark hard route; cue downgrade discussion" syndrome.
Amen.


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gme

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#7599 Re: significant repeats
September 25, 2017, 05:31:09 pm
More amazing news from a vintage year. Sounds like Janja nearly did it in 6 tries a few weeks ago as well. Female 9a+s going down.
Whilst I don't think they are catching up to the top boys they are kicking a majority of their arses. Not sure how many 9a+s and above have been done world wide but none here other than Steve.

 

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