UKBouldering.com

significant repeats (Read 4325335 times)

Kingy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1682
  • Karma: +77/-2
#7325 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2017, 05:40:23 pm
Yes, Huber was way ahead of his time, Open Air is now considered the first 9a+ in the world, years before Realization. I think La Rambla's modern grade sticking at 9a+ (despite the jug being used) was one of the main reasons why Ondra upgraded Open Air.

For anyone with time on their hands, here is an old 8a.nu thread which airs the various theories about the grade of the line etc. There is a link to a Planet Mountain article as well. Enjoy!

https://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.8a.nu%2Fforum%2FViewForumThread.aspx%3FObjectId%3D29720%26ObjectClass%3DCLS_UserEditorialComment%26CountryCode%3DGLOBAL

Can't resist this quote from Alex Huber from the Planet Mountain interview  ;D

We all know that grades, especially those at the very top, are an enigma. How do you interpret these difficulties?

"Let me give you an example: Adam confirmed my thoughts about "Weisse Rose": it's harder than "La Rambla". It's a fact that La Rambla increased in grade from 8c+ to 9a+. Often people believe this is due to the route extension, but in reality the difficulties do not change substantially with this extension. The difficulty in traversing from the Rambla belay rightwards to finish up "Reina Mora", compared to the crux on La Rambla, is not relevant. To this you also have to add the fact that La Rambla isn't harder than Action Direct and therefore cannot be harder than 9a. In 1995 Action Directe was given 8c+, that is why my routes such as "Weisse Rose" and "La Rambla" had to be given 8c+."

« Last Edit: February 27, 2017, 06:00:48 pm by Kingy »

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#7326 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2017, 08:29:48 pm
Looks like hardly any climbing at all above original belay.
« Last Edit: February 27, 2017, 08:37:35 pm by Doylo »

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5797
  • Karma: +187/-5
#7327 Re: significant repeats
February 28, 2017, 10:23:57 am

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7996
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#7328 Re: significant repeats
February 28, 2017, 11:40:09 am
Attaboy!!!
Great! That's the best way to climb that line: from start to finish, that is!!!

Fantastic effort.

dave

  • Guest
#7329 Re: significant repeats
February 28, 2017, 11:41:45 am
Is that 8c yeah?

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5769
  • Karma: +228/-4
#7330 Re: significant repeats
February 28, 2017, 12:05:59 pm
No, it's 8C

standard

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 327
  • Karma: +9/-1
#7331 Re: significant repeats
February 28, 2017, 12:06:48 pm
alright Lens

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5769
  • Karma: +228/-4
#7332 Re: significant repeats
February 28, 2017, 12:11:27 pm
 ;D

dave

  • Guest
#7333 Re: significant repeats
February 28, 2017, 12:28:16 pm

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#7334 Re: significant repeats
February 28, 2017, 12:28:29 pm
It got 8C but last 4/5 ascentionists have said 8B+. Effort Ned.

turnipturned

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 717
  • Karma: +108/-1
#7335 Re: significant repeats
March 01, 2017, 10:50:07 am
Sounds like Aidan Roberts (Lakes Youth, nice guy, the future etc etc) has repeated (maybe FA  :worms:) Traci Lords Sit, at Lad Stones, I think Gskins gave it 8B or something outrageous, but sounds like its more 8B+.

Background: apparently stand broke last year and is now easier, however the sit is still insanely hard.

What a boy!


shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8712
  • Karma: +626/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#7336 Re: significant repeats
March 01, 2017, 11:12:23 am
Aidan Roberts (Lakes Youth, nice guy, the future etc etc)

 ;D

Nike Air

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 675
  • Karma: +72/-1
#7337 Re: significant repeats
March 01, 2017, 11:58:03 am
Awesome effort!

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#7338 Re: significant repeats
March 01, 2017, 11:58:48 am
Waddage. Must have been 8C before the G-break .  ;)

BRidal

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Bridle
  • Posts: 27
  • Karma: +20/-0
#7339 Re: significant repeats
March 01, 2017, 06:19:53 pm
Nina Williams has done Ambrosia. She must have enviably large balls! Just as impressive as Margo's ascent to me, not many people willing to put themselves in that position!

monkey boy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1196
  • Karma: +65/-0
#7340 Re: significant repeats
March 01, 2017, 08:14:15 pm
Nina Williams has done Ambrosia. She must have enviably large balls! Just as impressive as Margo's ascent to me, not many people willing to put themselves in that position!

Agreed! Good effort

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2956
  • Karma: +162/-8
#7341 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2017, 02:03:09 am
Such a good week for climbing, bold and hard routes by women.

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2886
  • Karma: +146/-1
#7342 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2017, 12:22:50 pm
Seb Bouin walked up Ciudad de Dios, 9a/+ at Santa Linya today. Can't have found it very hard because he then put in a good stab at finishing up Novena Enmienda, 9a+.

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5769
  • Karma: +228/-4
#7343 Re: significant repeats
March 03, 2017, 09:14:46 pm
It's not entirely clear from her instagram, but I think Hazel Findlay has done Mind Control.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BRMK04YDWtL/

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk


dontfollowme

Offline
  • ****
  • Trusted Users
  • junky
  • Posts: 955
  • Karma: +13/-0

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#7345 Re: significant repeats
March 03, 2017, 09:49:25 pm
Used to be  8c+ so must be the hardest route done by a British female?

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8712
  • Karma: +626/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#7346 Re: significant repeats
March 03, 2017, 10:13:00 pm
What a comeback  :bow:

Ged

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 924
  • Karma: +40/-1
#7347 Re: significant repeats
March 03, 2017, 10:51:17 pm
Geddon hazel. Well done. Good to see you back in action.

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4304
  • Karma: +345/-25
#7348 Re: significant repeats
March 04, 2017, 08:49:44 am
Seb Bouin walked up Ciudad de Dios, 9a/+ at Santa Linya today. Can't have found it very hard because he then put in a good stab at finishing up Novena Enmienda, 9a+.

Has that link been done before? My knowledge banks are letting me down...

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4240
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#7349 Re: significant repeats
March 04, 2017, 09:54:50 am
Seb Bouin walked up Ciudad de Dios, 9a/+ at Santa Linya today. Can't have found it very hard because he then put in a good stab at finishing up Novena Enmienda, 9a+.

And the day after (yesterday) he fell twice from the last hard move of “Definición de resistencia demócrata”, 9a(+), in Bruixes.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal