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significant repeats (Read 4232709 times)

dave

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#7300 Re: significant repeats
February 07, 2017, 01:36:47 pm
Reference to Stuart Cameron I assume?

andy_e

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#7301 Re: significant repeats
February 07, 2017, 01:37:54 pm
Come on dave, if anyone knows it should be you.

Three Nine

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#7302 Re: significant repeats
February 07, 2017, 05:32:06 pm
Well, I cried myself to sleep
Are you the problem creator, or the stu with 5 bellies, I suspect stu 6 pack is more likely

 :lol: I think its a stuart cameron reference, but it works for stu too

Kingy

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#7303 Re: significant repeats
February 07, 2017, 06:14:58 pm
It must Stuart Cameron as the problem dates from c93/94. This was when 'Jimmy 5 Bellies' was in the news, Gazza's erstwhile drinking buddy, for anybody who's interested   :-\ www.mirror.co.uk/news/uk-news/gazzas-former-best-mate-jimmy-4387340

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#7304 Re: significant repeats
February 08, 2017, 01:47:10 pm
According to Fanatic Climbing, Stefano Ghisolfi has repeated First round first minute, 9b in Margalef. Significant, since there are only six climbers who has, without a shadow of doubt, done a 9b route. (Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra, Jacob Shubert Alex Megos, Sachi Amma and now also Stephano Gisolfi)

[edited. reason: added JS to 9b climbers]

Why are the ascents of Chilam Balam not on this list? Is there something I don't know?

At the time Ondra said

'What do you to think about the grade?
I think it might be a normal 9b, maybe even a low-end 9b, but definitely not 9a+. It's not the hardest route I've ever climbed and Chaxi Raxi is probably harder. My ascent obviously proves nothing about Fernandez's ascent, it just proves that the route is climbable, beautiful and there for people to try!'


Has something changed...?

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#7305 Re: significant repeats
February 08, 2017, 03:29:03 pm
According to Fanatic Climbing, Stefano Ghisolfi has repeated First round first minute, 9b in Margalef. Significant, since there are only six climbers who has, without a shadow of doubt, done a 9b route. (Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra, Jacob Shubert Alex Megos, Sachi Amma and now also Stephano Gisolfi)

[edited. reason: added JS to 9b climbers]

Why are the ascents of Chilam Balam not on this list? Is there something I don't know?

At the time Ondra said

'What do you to think about the grade?
I think it might be a normal 9b, maybe even a low-end 9b, but definitely not 9a+. It's not the hardest route I've ever climbed and Chaxi Raxi is probably harder. My ascent obviously proves nothing about Fernandez's ascent, it just proves that the route is climbable, beautiful and there for people to try!'


Has something changed...?

Well Seb Bouin did Chilam Bilam and said it wasn't 9b. Dani Andrada and Edu Marin also repeated it and said the same. Of course, none of these climbers have done a 9b elsewhere, but—in Bouin's case at least—it isn't for lack of trying.

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#7306 Re: significant repeats
February 20, 2017, 07:36:02 pm
Toru Nakajima has made the 4th ascent of Lucid Dreaming, 8C.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/70949/lucid_dreaming_8c_by_toru_nakajima

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#7307 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2017, 07:32:05 pm
margo hayes has climbed la rambla. first female 9a+?

https://www.instagram.com/p/BQ_Hz2WldJb/

haydn jones

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#7308 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2017, 08:13:04 pm
 :clap2:  :strongbench: good stuff!

SA Chris

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#7309 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2017, 08:37:30 pm
Must be (one of?) the youngest too?

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#7310 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2017, 09:36:09 pm
 :punk:. Also,  :wub:.

remus

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#7311 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2017, 09:48:26 pm
Must be (one of?) the youngest too?

Ondra was 15(!) when he did La Rambala for his first 9a+.

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#7312 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2017, 09:58:54 pm
One of then.  Megos was 20? (ish).

Will Hunt

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#7313 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2017, 07:45:01 am
That photo of her is amazing. Very raw.

Also a bit like Renting after climbing his first 9a+.

dave

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#7314 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2017, 08:54:15 am
Also a bit like Renting after climbing his first 9a+.

Amazing that these 9a+ wads are not on the property ladder.

Paul B

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#7315 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2017, 09:01:43 am
margo hayes has climbed la rambla. first female 9a+?

https://www.instagram.com/p/BQ_Hz2WldJb/

Epic effort. With very little time invested?

If you dismiss Josune's ascent due to the slash then through other claim is perhaps accurate. Personally, I'm not overly keen on the Facebook reporting style with little to no commentary on the above.

Similar happened with Sasha and posts were soon qualified with 'American' etc., this time 'confirmed' is being hastily added.

Slash grade in 05 vs. 'confirmed' in 2017   :worms:

Barros tells me slash grades are being added to Spanish guides so perhaps I'm very behind on this.

Will Hunt

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#7316 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2017, 09:53:16 am
Also a bit like Renting after climbing his first 9a+.

Amazing that these 9a+ wads are not on the property ladder.

Fucks sake. Android swipe keyboard balls up.

RENTON after climbing his first 9a+

SA Chris

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#7317 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2017, 10:05:58 am

Also a bit like Renting after climbing his first 9a+.

Are top climbers really needing to get into rough trade to make ends meet?

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#7318 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2017, 11:37:32 am
I think the grade change or slash may depend on the famous "banned hold" issue.
There's a juggy hold on the last part, slightly on the right of the line, that makes a good rest (if you're fit enough to get there).
Taking that is said to be 9a, without gets the +.
It appears also in an Ondra video I think.

As it seems, controversy on La Rambla never ends... Alex Huber's FA, the repeat/new FA by Andrada...
 :worms:

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#7319 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2017, 11:50:09 am
RE the "banned jug" thing.

I recall Ondra saying when he was younger that he didn't like to rest mid-route, and preferred to just get on with it. So maybe he had "allowed" himself the jug, but chose not to deviate out to it.

abarro81

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#7320 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2017, 11:55:15 am
I think ondra said he didn't use it for his hands because Ramon  did the FA of the extension like that but considered it a nonsense for it to be prohibited.  Most subsequent ascents have used it IIRC.  It's used for feet even if eliminated for hands.

Nibile - Paul was referring to the slash of the thing Jozune did, not La Rambla. Extension FA was Ramon, I believe Andrada has put a lot of time in but not done it or only did it recently?

Nibile

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#7321 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2017, 12:09:54 pm
Ah right, sorry.
As far as I remember, before moving back the chain to the original anf higher placement, Andrada repeated La Rambla at the old 8c+. I remember a title on Desnivel that read "Dani, La Rambla es suya!".
The came Huber's reply, saying that Andrada had done a lower traverse that is/was an easier variation, maybe called Broadway, IIRC.
Then Andrada moved the chain and set to work but I belive never did the extension/original.

36chambers

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#7322 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2017, 12:23:04 pm
stole this link from someone's comment on UKC, the jug is apparently the one highlighted at 1:30 in this clip



Seems pretty ridiculous not using it for hands but using it for feet, and I'm normally all for a good eliminate.

Kingy

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#7323 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2017, 12:40:40 pm
I understand the new climbing above Hubers old chain is French 7b+ in difficulty and only adds a bolt or 2 after the crux at the top of Hubers original creation, which is still the crux of the new version too. I dont understand how the grade can jump from 8c+ to 9a+ with only a 2 bolt 7b+ being added, jug or no jug? Ondra looks to be shaking out on half decent holds just to the left of the jug, certainly for a 5.15 route.

I vaguely recall, and i may be wrong, that the difficulty came from the fact that to access the extension climbing you were wronghanded or something after doing hubers crux and that is why he slammed a lower belay in?  :-\

Or are we saying Hubers grade is a sandbag (gets my vote) and he climbed 9a in 1994? Just like Hubble is now similarly seen as 9a these days.
« Last Edit: February 27, 2017, 12:46:40 pm by Kingy »

Nibile

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#7324 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2017, 02:21:43 pm
Alex Huber lowered the chain because a crucial hold broke.
He didn't even bother repeating the route in the new state, having already climbed the route to the new belay (penultimate bolt of the longer version or so). This caused some controversy I remember.
Huber was a monster, I think Om was upgraded to 9a+ by Ondra. Or maybe it was Open Air.

 

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