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significant repeats (Read 4243869 times)

Duncan campbell

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#7050 Re: significant repeats
August 30, 2016, 12:38:57 pm
The steely fingered Eve Lancashire has gone and repeated Rare Lichen! However, she still can’t do Jerry's Roof…   ;)

That's incredible! I'd never heard of her before so by the power of Google I discovered she only did her first E5 last month! Presumably she's another from the production line of super strong junior comp climbers who are now popping outdoors and climbing mega hard?

She's a product of old school trad hero Howard Lancashire. Her older sister's not shit either and was interviewed by Hazel Findlay not long back; http://hazelfindlayclimbing.com/blog/view/gwen-lancashire-interview

I went to uni with Gwen and it was dismaying as a young, gung-ho male to see her go from having not led above E1 much to destroying routes I could only dream of. Especially when combined with her self-deprecating manner (properly self-deprecating not the just for show type) and her inability to do even a single pull-up. Looking forward to hearing what she's been up to since she left the UK to go crush in Oz and N. America. Have heard rumours of Astroman and I have no doubt there will be loads more. She's a total hero.

shark

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#7051 Re: significant repeats
August 30, 2016, 03:10:42 pm
She's a product of old school trad hero Howard Lancashire.

I didnt know that. I used to climb with Howard. He also had unfairly strong fingers. Generally this was attributed to the time he put in traversing at Pleasley Vale. Sounds like genetics had more to do with it.

Will Hunt

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#7052 Re: significant repeats
August 30, 2016, 03:15:32 pm
Sounds more like a good work ethic to me, which has been passed down from father to daughter!

Yoof

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#7053 Re: significant repeats
August 30, 2016, 04:29:20 pm
That's incredible! I'd never heard of her before so by the power of Google I discovered she only did her first E5 last month! Presumably she's another from the production line of super strong junior comp climbers who are now popping outdoors and climbing mega hard?

Na- never been a comp climber. I was in the same form as her in school and she was only climbing up to about HVS-E1 at age 18. Four years later and she's onsighting E5 with ease and headpointing E9 ... Seems to be a Lancashire thing...

SA Chris

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#7054 Re: significant repeats
August 31, 2016, 10:32:38 am
Seems to be a Lancashire thing...

The place or the family?

Duncan campbell

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#7055 Re: significant repeats
August 31, 2016, 10:40:10 am
The family. Gwen and Eve grew up in Chesterfield I believe

Ally Smith

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#7056 Re: significant repeats
August 31, 2016, 01:13:33 pm
Tall AND good, bastard.

and emaciated! (it's a bit of an in-joke)

Well done Ali - i guess you decided to miss out E9 as being a bit too passe?

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#7057 Re: significant repeats
August 31, 2016, 06:01:39 pm
Dunno how significant it would be considered by the UKB elders but Ali Kennedy climbed Muy Caliente on Saturday.

Disappointingly smooth ascent with not even a power scream or bit of disco leg. Was hoping for at least one of those if not a whip off the safe crux. Impressively  :strongbench:

Outstanding  : :2thumbsup:Well done Ali
I think it is significant but if it isn't then maybe we could have an "Effort middle aged person with full time job/family or other shit" thread

JohnM

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#7058 Re: significant repeats
September 01, 2016, 11:33:33 am
Quote
The steely fingered Eve Lancashire has gone and repeated Rare Lichen! However, she still can’t do Jerry's Roof…   ;)

I just read about this on the other channel and without downplaying the effort I was wondering whether 7c that is not a death route can be E9? I don't want to start a grade debate but was wondering whether this is unprecedented. 

Doylo

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#7059 Re: significant repeats
September 01, 2016, 12:33:54 pm
I thought most reasonably safe E9s were 8a+ and anything less than that pretty damn dangerous (ie you can't fall off).

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#7060 Re: significant repeats
September 01, 2016, 12:35:45 pm
Casual gradism. I'm disgusted!

Doylo

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#7061 Re: significant repeats
September 01, 2016, 12:53:22 pm
Ye John how come you never wondered this after the 20 or so male ascents?  :jab:

JohnM

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#7062 Re: significant repeats
September 01, 2016, 10:26:23 pm
Final straw for me.

Jaspersharpe

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#7063 Re: significant repeats
September 01, 2016, 11:14:09 pm
Final straw for me.
What grade is Final Straw and is this really significant?

tomtom

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#7064 Re: significant repeats
September 02, 2016, 08:18:23 am
Final straw for me.
What grade is Final Straw and is this really significant?

Where's the video?

SA Chris

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#7065 Re: significant repeats
September 02, 2016, 09:14:13 am
Final straw for me.
What grade is Final Straw and is this really significant?

Which one? Gull Rock, The Camel or Harpur Hill one? (yes i looked it up)

jwi

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#7066 Re: significant repeats
September 06, 2016, 05:10:45 pm
Which is harder to onsight, Rare Lichen or Hubble?

willackers

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#7067 Re: significant repeats
September 21, 2016, 07:21:56 am
Young James Turnbull has just climbed Bat Route 8c, absolutely amazing achievement considering he climbed his first 8a only 5 months ago. 8a-8c in 5 months!  :o

Good effort.

Wood FT

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#7068 Re: significant repeats
September 21, 2016, 07:43:31 am
 :popcorn:
Young James Turnbull has just climbed Bat Route 8c, absolutely amazing achievement considering he climbed his first 8a only 5 months ago. 8a-8c in 5 months!  :o

Good effort.

Inspiring. Watched him do his first 8a this spring, such good rapid progression made me wonder and from my perspective it seems to boil down to 3 things

Student time zone
Bouldering background
Go for it attitude, skipping clips. Big falls etc

Well done James

willackers

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#7069 Re: significant repeats
September 21, 2016, 07:48:35 am

Go for it attitude, skipping clips. Big falls etc


Yeah he's like that climbing trad as well!  :P

Duncan campbell

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#7070 Re: significant repeats
September 21, 2016, 07:49:15 am
:popcorn:
Young James Turnbull has just climbed Bat Route 8c, absolutely amazing achievement considering he climbed his first 8a only 5 months ago. 8a-8c in 5 months!  :o

Good effort.

Inspiring. Watched him do his first 8a this spring, such good rapid progression made me wonder and from my perspective it seems to boil down to 3 things

Student time zone
Bouldering background
Go for it attitude, skipping clips. Big falls etc

Well done James

From my perspective I think all those things are definitely important, but I'd also be interested to know what he did behind the scenes...

Flipping amazing effort and progression no matter what he did! Bloody students...

willackers

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#7071 Re: significant repeats
September 21, 2016, 07:51:18 am
He told me he's been eating avocados, must be the new broccoli

Duncan campbell

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#7072 Re: significant repeats
September 21, 2016, 08:30:52 am
Hmmm. Does he exclusively eat avocados?!?

Somebody needs to tell Nic Duboust that broccoli is no longer going to cut it,
« Last Edit: September 21, 2016, 08:37:17 am by Duncan campbell »

Shabar

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#7073 Re: significant repeats
September 21, 2016, 10:15:37 am
Well done young James Turnbull. Poor old James Turnbull though, not just doomed never to be the best climber in his family, he's not even the best climber called James Turnbull...  :fishing:

dave

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#7074 Re: significant repeats
September 21, 2016, 10:24:20 am
Is this James Turnbull not THE James Turnbull then?

 

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