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significant repeats (Read 4305626 times)

Will Hunt

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#6650 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2016, 12:59:11 pm
Is this significant anymore?
 :worms:

Mumra

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#6651 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2016, 01:06:24 pm
Is this significant anymore?
 :worms:
You and you're  opinion are not significant. However repeats of a classic UK 8b by British climbers are, especially when they are close together.

r-man

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#6652 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2016, 01:34:32 pm
That's your opinion Mumra  ;)

I like hearing about hard repeats, but it's also great that people like Will are out there developing new areas and sharing good looking projects. In terms of significance to the climbing community, that sort of thing is higher in my book than another repeat of Voyager.

Nice to see all the Voyager vids though. Here's Jonny's...





Will Hunt

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#6653 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2016, 01:42:22 pm
Is this significant anymore?
 :worms:
you're  opinion

I haven't expressed one. Questions of significance are fairly common on this thread.

At some point a repeat of any grade/climb will cease to be of national significance if there are a sufficient number of people ticking that grade/climb. If Voyager has had 20+ repeats as suggested above, it can only be becoming less significant - the question is at what point does it cease to be significant.

A neat answer might be "when nobody bothers to post it on this thread".

By the way, I agree with r-man that it's great to see people getting up hard stuff - it's even better that there's a guy out there whose name is genuinely "Jonny Argue". Is he in Viz?

duncan

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#6654 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2016, 02:20:59 pm
The Compressor Route (SE Ridge) on Cerro Torre has had a second free ascent, by a boulderer.

...this was (Andrew) Rothner's first alpine route, the crux pitch happened to be his first lead in Patagonia and the summit mushroom was his first ever ice lead.

What are you all waiting for!

Johnny Brown

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#6655 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2016, 02:24:52 pm
Sooner or later someone is going to come very unstuck in Patagonia due to lack of alpine experience. Very nearly happened to us...

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#6656 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2016, 02:46:51 pm
Sooner or later someone is going to come very unstuck in Patagonia due to lack of alpine experience. Very nearly happened to us...

Worth noting that yer man was climbing with Mikey Schaefer  and Josh Wharton. I think a very broad depth of experience on the ascent is hidden by a sensationalist soundbite.

SA Chris

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#6657 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2016, 04:24:50 pm

By the way, I agree with r-man that it's great to see people getting up hard stuff - it's even better that there's a guy out there whose name is genuinely "Jonny Argue". Is he in Viz?

I've told you once already?!

Will Hunt

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#6658 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2016, 04:28:22 pm

By the way, I agree with r-man that it's great to see people getting up hard stuff - it's even better that there's a guy out there whose name is genuinely "Jonny Argue". Is he in Viz?

I've told you once already?!

Are you starting, mate?

SA Chris

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#6659 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2016, 04:59:54 pm
Oh no I'm not.

Johnny Brown

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#6660 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2016, 05:13:17 pm
Sooner or later someone is going to come very unstuck in Patagonia due to lack of alpine experience. Very nearly happened to us...

Worth noting that yer man was climbing with Mikey Schaefer  and Josh Wharton. I think a very broad depth of experience on the ascent is hidden by a sensationalist soundbite.

Yes, I read the piece. It is not new - Patagonia has always been a place where rock-jocks can shortcut into elite alpinism. The issue is that for every Honnold-Haley team you've got a bunch of 5.12 punters who've never worn crampons before. We had some experience between us, with hindsight not enough. It was a fun way to learn, and climbing has a rich history of jumping in at the deep end, but I wouldn't be saying that if Jvan hadn't made it out of the crevasse...

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#6661 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2016, 05:25:31 pm
That's your opinion Mumra  ;)

I like hearing about hard repeats, but it's also great that people like Will are out there developing new areas and sharing good looking projects. In terms of significance to the climbing community, that sort of thing is higher in my book than another repeat of Voyager.

Nice to see all the Voyager vids though. Here's Jonny's...



Incredible change of weather mid crux....... Great effort Jonny and Nathan, awesome to see the standards rising in the UK.

I wonder how these boulders will fair against the amount of traffic they are now seeing, voyager has certainly seen a beating in the last couple of years (admittedly I have probably contributed to this in a small part by try the stand and the sit). It has defiantly got less sharp, even in the last year and the holds seem to becoming more rounded. Looking at the erosion rates of the ground, it could be quite highball in a couple of years. Not a rant, more an observation.


T_B

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#6662 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2016, 05:42:43 pm
Worth a re-post?

http://www.moonclimbing.com/blog/2015/02/on-the-damage-caused-to-rock-by-brushing/

I think we need to thwack more and brush less. Joker/Ace left crimp is a hell of a lot bigger and more positive than it was even two years ago.

Mumra

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#6663 Re: significant repeats
February 17, 2016, 05:54:45 pm
This is bizarre as these are the footholds for the Sphinx! I suppose voyager is getting more repeats atm

turnipturned

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#6664 Re: significant repeats
February 18, 2016, 11:33:53 am
This is bizarre as these are the footholds for the Sphinx! I suppose voyager is getting more repeats atm

In the last two years I have never seen chalk on the Sphinx, not sure why as it's a great problem!

36chambers

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#6665 Re: significant repeats
February 19, 2016, 12:16:50 pm
Alberto Rocasolano has repeated Sharma's recent Catalan Witness the Fitness 8C providing a single shot video of the entire climb as well.



During the 8B first ascent clip, @36 s, it looks like his rogue foot takes off a chunk of the wall...

monkey boy

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#6666 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2016, 06:38:33 am
Jo Allen has climbed her first 8A, Back Street Mime Artist at Burbage North.

Great to see all her hard work on this problem pay off!!  :strongbench:

a dense loner

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#6667 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2016, 06:53:10 am
Nice, good problem!

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#6668 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2016, 06:52:56 am
David Fitzgerald did Soul revolution (8B+) and Wonderland (8B), both second ascent in Wicklow area (Ireland) yesterday! PROPER impressive, huge congrats to that man!

monkey boy

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#6669 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2016, 07:11:20 am
David Fitzgerald did Soul revolution (8B+) and Wonderland (8B), both second ascent in Wicklow area (Ireland) yesterday! PROPER impressive, huge congrats to that man!

You beat me to it! Very impressive indeed. Both great blocs, big up Duffy for establishing them!

a dense loner

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#6670 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2016, 11:08:37 am
Big up Duffy? Are you being serious? You've been spending too much time with Americans!

Oldmanmatt

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#6671 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2016, 11:28:10 am

Big up Duffy? Are you being serious? You've been spending too much time with Americans!

Your passport photos are ready Dense...






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dave

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#6672 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2016, 11:42:28 am
Head way too big.

Dave Flanagan

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#6673 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2016, 12:15:42 pm
David Fitzgerald did Soul revolution (8B+) and Wonderland (8B), both second ascent in Wicklow area (Ireland) yesterday! PROPER impressive, huge congrats to that man!

You beat me to it! Very impressive indeed. Both great blocs, big up Duffy for establishing them!

More details http://theshortspan.com/index.php/fitzgerald-repeats-wonderland-8b-and-soul-revolution-8b-on-the-same-day/

a dense loner

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#6674 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2016, 09:13:04 pm
Good write up that Dave. Props and a big shout out to David, impressive stuff :weakbench:

 

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