[tomtom]

Anyone wanting to refresh their memory for Aliens quotes should read this - specifically the first paragraph of the story and then then the comment from 'herogram' (it's around six down) and the replies . . .

I was so deeply amused at the time that I can still find it now.

http://www.theguardian.com/world/2013/oct/04/killer-hornets-chinese-city-living-in-fear

Brilliant - the link to the comment (its a bit easier)
http://www.theguardian.com/world/2013/oct/04/killer-hornets-chinese-city-living-in-fear#comment-27628686

[Fiend]

Jordan is back! The mild-mannered ground-up beast that is, not the vacuous pneumatic slag who should be ground down into discount dog food...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69881

Jordan Buys has made the first ground-up ascent of Tim Emmett's Chicama​ E9 6c at Trearddur Bay​.

"Having spent a week in North Wales getting back into trad climbing, Jordan and John Roberts returned to Trearddur Bay one week later alongside Sam Hamer and Mike Hutton. Jordan told UKC:

"On Friday Sam concentrated on cleaning Chicama; John and I focussed on the E7, “The Treacherous Underfoot”. John had been trying it, I nipped in for a quick flash go on his gear. I took a fall from a smeggy crumbly section, lowered down, pulled the ropes and jumped straight back on in a race against the vigorous tide. I topped out just in time for Sam to flee the shrinking belay ledge and jelly fish riding the massive waves."

The low tide was even later in the day on Saturday, so the team waited for the conditions to improve. Jordan described his first attempt as follows:

"Suddenly the planets aligned – the sun shone on most of the holds, the tide was on its way in but only just. I got the numbers from Sam, what gear goes where, which were the hardest bits, etc. John pulled the short straw and strapped himself to the ledge. The holds were still pretty greasy, some were actually wet, but I pushed on and fiddled all the gear in the right places."

He went on:

"The route is VERY steep, the holds are decent-ish, but not helped by the angle. I kept my cool, kept breathing and was soon looking at the last hard sequence of moves to the final cluster of pegs. Sam had told me to “go again” with my right hand but I felt like I could pull through on the first hold – mistake! It was a move too far. Next news I was flying through the air, suddenly remembering that I was on a trad route above the ocean...After some enormous airtime, the little cam I had placed 10 moves below thankfully held."

With only a 20 minute window before a belay ledge would no longer exist, Jordan attempted to recover as quickly as possible for another go and checked the weather conditions for the following day, just in case:

"With no time to spare, I was tying back in to the sharp end. The holds felt a little drier and I didn’t ignore Sam’s beta. I topped out to whoops of relief from John, who quickly scuttled up the ab rope in the nick of time."

Summing up the route, Jordan told UKC:

"Abseiling off to retrieve my gear confirmed just how steep this line is. It felt about 8a just to strip it! Great route, amazing position and suitably epic sending conditions."
"

 

[Wood FT]

Nice one Jordan, was crying out for this since it was re-pegged

[petejh]

Get it bolted with duplex stainless that will last >100 years (or de-pegged @ e10?). It'll be a shit-show of rusted pegs in 10 years.

Pegged routes on sea cliffs grumbles aside, nice one Jordan! 

[a dense loner]

Yesterday Gangle did 2 8B's, not sure this has been done before on British soil? Fantastic effort. Dandelion mind early morning then his new addition to the tor "Fat Hook". Climbs fat lip but instead of finishing up the last bit of keen roof you finish rightwards, presumably up hook but I don't know details on that problem I'm sure monkey boy will be along to give better info. Hard 8B apparently.
Strong 

[haydn jones]

If he finish rightwards at the lip thats maybe sympathy of a choice a 7B+ boulder in its own right. So instead of a 7A+ finish its a 7B+ which adds a lot imo. If he finished up hook  direct up and left. then thats even more impressive!

[abarro81]

I got the impression in the end that it was actually sympathy in choice he finished up. Harder finish anyway,

[a dense loner]

He finished up a 7c apparently (so tor grading aside could be the 7b+ you're describing), I'm not the best to speak of this as fact as Sam W told me this morn. Said Gangle was looking ridiculously impressive, and then he pulled on.

[Ru]

Yesterday Gangle did 2 8B's, not sure this has been done before on British soil?

Didn't Gaz do Isla de Encanta and Anaesthesia on the same day?

[abarro81]

Mason said on FB that it was sympathy in choice that Newman did, tho they thought it was hook. Many have made a similar mistake. Sympathy is 7b/+ really from the lip hold. Hook is really quite elim and I think harder than 7c since part of a crimp broke? Has anyone on here actually done hook? Google 'raven tor addiction additions' for polish Dave's bid and topo which shows them

[Bonjoy]

A rename to Fat Choice perhaps?

[a dense loner]

Are you suggesting that one of polish daves probs is an eliminate? Who'd have thought it

Did Gaz do them in a day? Forget how good Gaz actually was since he always seemed to be overshadowed by vickers and earl, perhaps a tad unfairly

[Ru]

I'm not sure. He may have tried them before.

[dave]

A rename to Fat Choice perhaps?

Fat chance.

From what I remember of Hook its more of a tight line than an eliminate, at least by today's standards, although I haven't done it or been on it for a few years. Always got up eyeballing the top jug too gripped to go for it. Its not exactly high quality, deffo one for locals only.

[andy_e]

Yesterday Gangle did 2 8B's, not sure this has been done before on British soil?

Didn't Gaz do Isla de Encanta and Anaesthesia on the same day?

Dan Warren did Bulbhaul, then rested for ten minutes, then did Real Keelhaul (both for the first time). Not sure if this counts as there's only one or two moves different between the two...

[Kingy]

Great work by Tom. I did sympathy in choice stand the other week with a toprope from the new bolt that was put in recently and it was defo 7b+ for me although poss easier for the tall. I posted a description on the ukc raven tor problems page as neither this or full sympathy were listed. The stand starts with the RH on the keen roof lip hold and a left heel out left on the lip and does a massive reach with LH up to a tiny crimp which is hidden from below then RH to the polished slopey jug out right.

Hook starts further left on the crimps and the easiest way that Andy banks did at 7c gets the right heel on the keen roof lip hold then u get some tiny black crimps leading straight up to the jugs under Evolution. Polish Dave's eliminate 8A version is shown on his addiction additions video, see link to it on the sympathy description on ukc database, plus Dave's topo of all the problems here

[haydn jones]

Im still waiting for weedkiller into fat lip to be done. Will be such a mega line 

[Three Nine]

do it urself u lazy cunt

[haydn jones]

Pfft too easy for me. Not worth my bother....

[T_B]

Im still waiting for weedkiller into fat lip to be done. Will be such a mega line 

Will a 7A+ start really add much difficulty to an 8B?

[haydn jones]

Yes massively. And its not just 7A+. The link up moves to get into fat lip are quite hard and so its more like doing a pumpy 7C into a powerful 8B.

[Three Nine]

Joble reckons hard 8B+, the fact that its 7A+ is kind of irrelevant, more that its 13 moves or so

[Three Nine]

what he said

[haydn jones]

If it were the other way. Powerful 1 move 7C into a long pumpy 8B then no it probably wouldn't add much but its the other way so it does

[T_B]

Huh. Sounds like one for Stemac