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significant repeats (Read 4300021 times)

Boredboy

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#5775 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2015, 07:49:01 pm
Sorry thought this was the non quality bouldering vids thread for a moment.

Nibile

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#5776 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2015, 07:50:21 pm
Subtle.
 ;)

turnipturned

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#5777 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2015, 09:02:31 am
UK Significant: James Noble did the second ascent of Fat Lip at the Tor yesterday!

dave

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#5778 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2015, 09:04:47 am
Good effort, and handicapped by a name which doesn't even rhyme.

tomtom

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#5779 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2015, 09:16:55 am
Excellent!!

tomtom

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#5780 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2015, 09:18:02 am

Good effort, and handicapped by a name which doesn't even rhyme.

But excellent value if it ever needs to be double barrelled.. :)

Grubes

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#5781 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2015, 09:56:25 am
good effort (... which is fat lip?)

andy_e

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turnipturned

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#5783 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2015, 11:02:45 am
good effort (... which is fat lip?)

Unrepeated Steve McClure problem. The new beta looks like it climbs really nicely as well, almost like a compression prow, quite unusual from a limestone problem!

abarro81

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#5784 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2015, 11:15:57 am
Yeah, looks well fun like that

Nigel

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#5785 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2015, 02:25:43 pm
good effort (... which is fat lip?)

Unrepeated Steve McClure problem. The new beta looks like it climbs really nicely as well, almost like a compression prow, quite unusual from a limestone problem!

It always did, apart from Cave Problem and then the first hard move or two left. Great effort anyway. Needs to be done from Weedkiller start really.

Three Nine

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#5786 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2015, 02:41:58 pm
And link from cave problem sit

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#5787 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2015, 02:46:18 pm

r-man

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#5788 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2015, 02:59:57 pm
good effort (... which is fat lip?)

Unrepeated Steve McClure problem. The new beta looks like it climbs really nicely as well, almost like a compression prow, quite unusual from a limestone problem!

It always did, apart from Cave Problem and then the first hard move or two left. Great effort anyway. Needs to be done from Weedkiller start really.

Yeah, I seem to remember there was a cool toe hook sequence, followed by a few hard crimp moves to finish. At least that's the way Dawid and I were trying years ago. Sadly I could do one half and he could do the other, but we never managed to copy each other's beta. Great to see it getting a second ascent, I've always been surprised it got so little attention.

Ethan

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#5789 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2015, 03:12:39 pm
Slightly happier news. Big ascent. Seems like Ethan Pringle finally grabbed the second ascent of Jumbo Love yesterday!

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/ethan-pringle-climbs-jumbo-love-515b

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#5790 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2015, 03:12:59 pm
Great to see that this has been repeated. Mind blowingly long!

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/ethan-pringle-climbs-jumbo-love-515b

SA Chris

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#5791 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2015, 03:14:46 pm
Can anyone confirm Ethan Pringle has climbed Jumbo Love? Or provide a link?

willackers

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#5792 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2015, 03:17:00 pm

jwi

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#5793 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2015, 03:51:42 pm
that what you get for being 20s too slow willackers   ;)

The 9b club is still very very exclusive (and that answers my question: "what ever happened to Ethan Pringle?" from 9a+ to 9b in seven years: it's good to see that I'm not the only climber with this rate of improvement...)

Wood FT

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#5794 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2015, 03:59:06 pm
I'm impressed, from his enormocast interview he seemed to be pretty disillusioned with climbing

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#5795 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2015, 04:46:58 pm
Ye big 2nd ascent
from 9a+ to 9b in seven years: it's good to see that I'm not the only climber with this rate of improvement...)

That's about my rate too  :(

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#5796 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2015, 08:50:50 pm
that what you get for being 20s too slow willackers   ;)

The 9b club is still very very exclusive (and that answers my question: "what ever happened to Ethan Pringle?" from 9a+ to 9b in seven years: it's good to see that I'm not the only climber with this rate of improvement...)

One hell of a way to break into the grade though, maybe I am just a sucker for the production values of BigUp films, but Jumbo Love has far more appeal to me than one of the countless link-ups in Spanish caves (many of which are probably brilliant in their own right, but I lose track of which one is which, whereas the likes of Jumbo Love seem to stand apart a bit.

Doylo

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#5797 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2015, 09:07:45 pm
that what you get for being 20s too slow willackers   ;)

The 9b club is still very very exclusive (and that answers my question: "what ever happened to Ethan Pringle?" from 9a+ to 9b in seven years: it's good to see that I'm not the only climber with this rate of improvement...)

One hell of a way to break into the grade though, maybe I am just a sucker for the production values of BigUp films, but Jumbo Love has far more appeal to me than one of the countless link-ups in Spanish caves (many of which are probably brilliant in their own right, but I lose track of which one is which, whereas the likes of Jumbo Love seem to stand apart a bit.

I think that wall is pretty unique. It makes it more special that there's not many routes on it too.

Doylo

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#5798 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2015, 09:13:25 pm
I remember seeing Ethan at Ceuse with the American youth team (bunch of brats) in 2001.  Same year Sharma did Biographie. 

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#5799 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2015, 09:16:02 pm
The enormocast podcast interview with Randy Leavitt is brilliant imo. Really amazing new-route/crag equipper, developed Clark Mountain. Describes how he used to roll off his driveway at home and something like 12 hrs of driving later arrive at the crag for a session of redpointing or bolting a new route, then drive home.

link: http://enormocast.com/wp-content/uploads/podcasts/Enormo18RandyLeavitt.mp3
« Last Edit: May 18, 2015, 09:23:53 pm by petejh »

 

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