[Muenchener]

As for climbing on wet rock, the author has suddenly got a conscience cos it's happening closer to home after spending weeks climbing on wet rock in swizzy last year.

Granite is not sandstone. And vice versa.

[a dense loner]

Which is why I said what I said and followed it with "but where is the line?".
Ie do you advise people not to climb on any rock after rain? 2/3 days after rain? Granite just climb on it if it can be dried? All other rock types just climb on it after rain if you're local or a visitor with a pedigree above 8A on trips?

[Muenchener]

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't sandstone the only major rock type that's severely weakened by being wet? And surely it can't be too much to ask the average boulderer to learn to tell the difference between "sandstone" and "not sandstone"?

[monkey boy]

Which is why at the end of the day everyone has to be free to make their own, hopefully educated, decision. I didn't like being told what I could/couldn't do in Red Rocks. I felt like I could make an educated decision with information from local climbers because of my experience. Hopefully the more information that is out there the more educated we can be.

[kingholmesy]

Having just read Hedgers' blog I'm struggling to decide if it's a piss take or not, I quote....

“Give me the cams, I am going to do it now.” I said softly.

E8 is the big boys league and only few achieved this level – they are the ones with the biggest balls of them all

It’s a dangerous man’s sport and I don’t know why we do this"

 

[granticus]

Alex Waterhouse climbed Careless Torque today, Good effort!

This is in danger of getting lost amongst the non-significant repeat discussion above.
Flippin' brilliant effort Alex and a choice tick for your first 8a, well done! 

[rodma]

Even mcleod posted a video this year of him doing a problem in torridon where he had an in situ towel on the finish hold. The entire problem looked sopping.

No one comments on the poor ethics cos he is a hero. If I comment I just look bitter, but that's mostly because I am.

[rodma]

http://davemacleod.blogspot.co.uk/2014/11/the-anatomist-glen-torridon.html?m=1

[Doylo]

Former junior comp queen Jemma Powell is a decent boulderer these days. She climbed Corridors of Power (8A) a few months ago and Stoned Temple Pilots (8A) recently. Still not many British females cranking the Font 8's and she's got a full time job and a kid too boot.

[Will Hunt]

Yeah but were the problems dry?

[Luke Owens]

Former junior comp queen Jemma Powell is a decent boulderer these days. She climbed Corridors of Power (8A) a few months ago and Stoned Temple Pilots (8A) recently. Still not many British females cranking the Font 8's and she's got a full time job and a kid too boot.

Strong effort, I have a lot of respect for the people climbing well with a full time job and kids.

[Doylo]

There's only really Shauna and Mina climbing in the 8's and they're both full time.

[Paul B]

Its always good/interesting to see the names from the past (i.e. the people that were performing in the comps back when I was errr not) going well these days. It's the same names that keep cropping up.

Quite a good advert for the whole comp thing in my eyes.

[FilW]

Alex Waterhouse climbed Careless Torque today, Good effort!

This is in danger of getting lost amongst the non-significant repeat discussion above.
Flippin' brilliant effort Alex and a choice tick for your first 8a, well done! 

News of Alex's send of Careless Torque on the other channel...................

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69403

[dave]

What is all that mess on the left?

[monkey boy]

Class! Great effort Alex!

Mina did Lethal Design the other day too. Bird climbing 8A+ still worth a mention 

[Hot Muffin]

What is all that mess on the left?

if you look at the actual video you will see that its just ice you bean

[dave]

No, the ice in the video is to the left of that. Since when does ice form in thin horizontal chalk-white lines, mysteriously appearing between the "arriving at the crag" footage and the "trying the problem" footage?

[Hot Muffin]

valid point, no continuous footage so can a send really be given, he couldve used a ladder?

[FilW]

No, the ice in the video is to the left of that. Since when does ice form in thin horizontal chalk-white lines, mysteriously appearing between the "arriving at the crag" footage and the "trying the problem" footage?

It's some chalk on a damp patch where the ice was. All cleaned off before they left so don't get overexcited.

[dave]

I dare say it was cleaned off. But will still appear as a bad example to anyone watching the video.

[FilW]

Is that really all you took away from the video?

[dave]

No but it did stick out like a sore thumb. Massive random chalked area not exactly commonplace, thankfully.

[FilW]

Well, if he hadn't got the send or it hadn't been videoed you'd never had known about something that was gone again after a few hours, so pretend you didn't watch it and you can sleep easier.

[Will Hunt]

It's doubtless a good tick, but your argument is the sum of fuck all. Anybody climbing needs to know that trying to dry rock by plastering it with chalk is bellendular behaviour. It doesn't work, it makes the rock stay damp, and it looks shit. Whether or not it was filmed or not makes no difference.
I'm stunned that somebody can get to 8A and not know this.