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significant repeats (Read 4291943 times)

a dense loner

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#5025 Re: significant repeats
September 14, 2014, 09:45:27 pm
Will someone pls put this on a fourth thread?

Duma

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#5026 Re: significant repeats
September 20, 2014, 06:50:05 pm
Pooch has done Wheel of Chaos 8B+

from her FB:
So psyched to have climbed the Wheel of Chaos today! It was my second 8B+/ V14. It was my second day on it, and there was A LOT of epicing on it today before the send, didn't think it was going to happen. So happy!

monkey boy

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#5027 Re: significant repeats
September 22, 2014, 10:15:54 am
Not really sure if this is news but Mina repeated Super Cool (8a+) at Gordale yesterday! She said it was the best route she had done.

petejh

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#5028 Re: significant repeats
September 22, 2014, 11:09:00 am
Barely registers a flicker of the needle on my significanceometer, don't know about others. On the cool-routes to enjoy scale it must be right up there though.

Stu Littlefair

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#5029 Re: significant repeats
September 22, 2014, 11:43:43 am
Not really sure if this is news but Mina repeated Super Cool (8a+) at Gordale yesterday! She said it was the best route she had done.

Good effort Mina! Not hugely significant in the grand scale of things, but a good sign that the stamina training is paying dividends. Such an amazing route, and one which was a popular target for women a few years back. I was really surprised by how reachy the crux felt when I failed on it last year - makes the ascents by Lucy Mitchell, Ako Shillitoe and Ruth Smitton really impressive, given that I think they're all 5'4" or less...

SA Chris

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#5030 Re: significant repeats
September 22, 2014, 12:12:28 pm
Pooch has done Wheel of Chaos 8B+

So psyched to have climbed the Wheel of Chaos today! It was my second 8B+/ V14. It was my second day on it, and there was A LOT of epicing on it today before the send, didn't think it was going to happen. So happy!

Took her two days in total? Impressive either way, but doubly impressive if that's all it took!

a dense loner

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#5031 Re: significant repeats
September 22, 2014, 02:08:22 pm
Yep two days total

Moo

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#5032 Re: significant repeats
September 22, 2014, 02:44:24 pm
No video for this, no video for jade ........... Just saying :coffee:

Wood FT

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#5033 Re: significant repeats
September 22, 2014, 02:59:18 pm
No video for this, no video for jade ........... Just saying :coffee:

Strange not to film your hardest and most likely proudest ascents, sponsors or no sponsors. She does have a proven track record up to 8B doesnt she?  :shrug:

Not really sure if this is news but Mina repeated Super Cool (8a+) at Gordale yesterday! She said it was the best route she had done.

Nice one to Mina, my LTG route!

a dense loner

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#5034 Re: significant repeats
September 22, 2014, 03:27:40 pm
I hope they are fuckin jokes. She's the strongest woman out there by a country mile and if she hadn't have moved to shef for 2 yrs she'd have pissed these probs then

Wood FT

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#5035 Re: significant repeats
September 22, 2014, 03:56:45 pm
just to clarify I wasn't questioning the validity of these ascents at all.

cowboyhat

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#5036 Re: significant repeats
September 22, 2014, 04:08:03 pm
I hope they are fuckin jokes. She's the strongest woman out there by a country mile and if she hadn't have moved to shef for 2 yrs she'd have pissed these probs then

As an aside, (I certainly have no reason to doubt AP), this is no argument at all.

Rich Simpson was the strongest guy out there yet he was a liar.

Moo

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#5037 Re: significant repeats
September 22, 2014, 04:29:08 pm
I'm obviously taking the piss.

a dense loner

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#5038 Re: significant repeats
September 22, 2014, 04:41:47 pm
I know that it's the thousands of people that don't know the in-jokes I'm reaching out to

cofe

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#5039 Re: significant repeats
September 24, 2014, 02:15:26 pm
Sounds like Keenus has done Rhapsody. Great news.

Nibile

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#5040 Re: significant repeats
September 24, 2014, 02:32:29 pm
 :dance1:

Stubbs

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#5041 Re: significant repeats
September 24, 2014, 02:35:16 pm
Interesting, looking forward to reading about how it has become a worthwhile aim since the last time he tried it http://jamespearsonclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2008/10/walk-of-life-e12-7a-48m-description.html


tomtom

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T_B

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#5044 Re: significant repeats
September 24, 2014, 03:09:21 pm
Yep, he took a fair amount of stick for the overgrading of Walk of Life, Promise etc when he was young and naive. And most recently getting criticised for his 'funny' accent FFS! Give the guy a break. Top effort  :clap2:

Gus

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#5045 Re: significant repeats
September 24, 2014, 03:36:47 pm
Still not convinced that The Promise without any pads, ladders, 20 spotters etc et. is massively overgraded!!

Bonjoy

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#5046 Re: significant repeats
September 24, 2014, 03:51:36 pm
I spoke to James about the accent thing. It’s just something he’s picked up from speaking a lot of English to people who’re using it as their second language. He admitted it sounded a bit odd, but said (in a funny voice) that he couldn’t do much about it and wasn’t bothered anyway. It certainly isn’t some sort of deliberate affectation.
Fine effort BTW!

lagerstarfish

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#5047 Re: significant repeats
September 24, 2014, 03:55:09 pm
I'd misread that as "funny ascent" and was slightly confused about Bonjoy's post

Nibile

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#5048 Re: significant repeats
September 24, 2014, 03:58:39 pm
Still not convinced that The Promise without any pads, ladders, 20 spotters etc et. is massively overgraded!!
Jesus fucking Christ Gus, thank you for making me feel not alone.
I really really struggle to comprehend how some peole fail - or pretend to - to understand this.
Even I, understand that.

Muenchener

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#5049 Re: significant repeats
September 24, 2014, 04:03:56 pm
I spoke to James about the accent thing. It’s just something he’s picked up from speaking a lot of English to people who’re using it as their second language.

I haven't received any feedback about my accent from living abroad for fifteen years (so far), but I definitely noticed - quite early on too - that taling mostly to second language speakers and/or native English speakers with other dialects definitely has an averaging-out effect. I'm not only not up to date on current British slang, I'd also probably less likely to casually use words/phrases that I know are UK dialect specific.

It's not a conscious choice, it's just something that happens.

 

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