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significant repeats (Read 4237988 times)

leeroy

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#5000 Re: significant repeats
September 03, 2014, 02:08:11 pm
Facey B.

Caro's page had a photo of him on it.

"And yesterday, Something's Burning Flash for James. Ok, that was a very precise flash, I showed him every beta, every gear. I wouldn't have let him try the route without preparation otherwise, as the gear is super precise, and not wonderfull at all. Anyway, He didn't fall, flashing is first E9 ever!!!!
Thanks Charlie for having had the vision for such a great route!"

shark

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#5001 Re: significant repeats
September 03, 2014, 02:17:24 pm
Facey B.

Caro's page had a photo of him on it.

"And yesterday, Something's Burning Flash for James. Ok, that was a very precise flash, I showed him every beta, every gear. I wouldn't have let him try the route without preparation otherwise, as the gear is super precise, and not wonderfull at all. Anyway, He didn't fall, flashing is first E9 ever!!!!
Thanks Charlie for having had the vision for such a great route!"

Cheers Nathan.

Looks like a UK first at the grade then Will...

kelvin

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#5002 Re: significant repeats
September 03, 2014, 02:25:42 pm
So no need for headpoint grades now then eh?

Luke Owens

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#5003 Re: significant repeats
September 03, 2014, 02:31:20 pm
Strong effort from James!

Anyone know if Caro did it too?

shark

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#5004 Re: significant repeats
September 03, 2014, 02:58:45 pm
Strong effort from James!

Anyone know if Caro did it too?

I checked her FB page and she didn't mention it so I suspect she's just top roped it - so far anyway.

She's did another route in Stennis Ford earlier this week - Mercia Wall E8 which is next to Something's Burning
« Last Edit: September 03, 2014, 03:13:11 pm by shark »

b*stard4

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#5005 Re: significant repeats
September 03, 2014, 07:58:38 pm
Good efforts James and Caro.

Off topic but this new school flashing with partners top roping, cleaning, chalking, tick marking etc which James, Jordan Buys and Ryan Pas do a bit of should perhaps be renamed slip streaming?

Jaspersharpe

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#5006 Re: significant repeats
September 03, 2014, 08:09:39 pm
That's impressive shit. Great stuff.

Moo

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#5007 Re: significant repeats
September 04, 2014, 02:41:42 pm
Surely a flash is a flash, first go with beta. we don't need to to start dividing up the flash bracket for climbing do we  :blink:

Doylo

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#5008 Re: significant repeats
September 04, 2014, 06:51:52 pm
No we don't need different degrees of flash. Better than a head point and not as good as an onsight will do.

Doylo

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#5009 Re: significant repeats
September 04, 2014, 06:52:10 pm
Effort Darse BTW

shark

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#5010 Re: significant repeats
September 07, 2014, 10:58:20 am
Commentary from Facebook

Neil Gresham

"James Pearson's ascent of Something's Burning E9 surely represents the next level in trad climbing. Having been on this route, I'm just blown away that anyone could possess the strength, skill and nerve to flash it. Truly landmark."

Tim Emmett

"That's what I thought when he went for the flash on Muy Caliente! It's a feisty 8a+"

Charlie Woodburn

"It's a very very impressive ascent. But I've gotta say that with font 8b strength I'm not really that surprised. Bold trad climbing has been crying out for someone to combine that level of strength with savvy tactics and serious ambition for a long time. I think its awesome that James has actually stepped up to do the honours. Respect"

Neil Gresham

"I think Caro deserves credit here too - the idea of coaxing your partner in to doing something like this is pretty counter-intuitive. Fair play to her for the support role."

JackAus

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#5011 Re: significant repeats
September 08, 2014, 08:02:48 am
Another E9 for the group.

Yuji has done John Dunne's 'The Big Issue' E9 6c.

At least, I'm assuming he did it from his facebook post.

Muenchener

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#5012 Re: significant repeats
September 08, 2014, 09:32:27 am
Quote from: Yuji Hirayama
UK climbing has a lot of adventure.
Even easy route like E1 and E2 need to commit to climb on..I found It has always spice to climb...you can't jump on even easy route.

ghisino

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#5013 Re: significant repeats
September 09, 2014, 05:03:25 pm
Another E9 for the group.

Yuji has done John Dunne's 'The Big Issue' E9 6c.

At least, I'm assuming he did it from his facebook post.

terrible report by italian site up climbing.

they credit yuji with the FA, and when confronted on fb with their error they dig themselves into an even deeper hole ("yes but dunne dit it on preplaced gear" errr... a simple google search shows that yuji isn't the first placing the gear on lead either!).
I'm truly shocked by their level of amateurism and carelessness

(btw: they're the same people publishing that useless godoffe topo for fontainebleau...full of small and occasionally big mistakes and imprecisions)

Nemo

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#5014 Re: significant repeats
September 09, 2014, 07:15:13 pm
I'm only going on a Google translate of that article, but as far as I can tell the facts seem pretty reasonable to me - I'm guessing you don't like Up Climbing ;)

To be honest, I'm surprised there's not been a bit more comment in the UK about Yuji's ascent.  As far as I'm aware, this was the first ascent placing all gear on lead.
John Dunne and Steve Mac both had some gear in situ, and Adrian Berry / Gaz Parry both had all of it in situ.  Who else has done it?  Maybe I've missed something?

So if you take the "Stevie Haston" position on what is / isn't a valid ascent, then indeed Yuji's is the FA.  Of course, most people aren't really that strict about it, but it certainly sounds like the most impressive ascent so far, and if you define a valid trad ascent as placing all gear on lead (as lots of people do around the world), then it sounds like the article was pretty accurate to me...

More to the point, I seem to remember people saying that placing the gear on this would make it massively harder so it sounds like a pretty fierce effort - hopefully a bit more detail about the ascent will come out at some point.




Muenchener

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#5015 Re: significant repeats
September 09, 2014, 07:33:57 pm
Otoh here's a decent write up by Caroline Ciavaldini of Mr Ciavaldini's E9 flash.

She seems very confident of what she can send him up / not talk him out of without too much risk of losing him. (I guess we're never going to get to read about Claire MacLeod's thoughts as belayer on Echo Wall)

kelvin

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#5016 Re: significant repeats
September 09, 2014, 08:13:09 pm
and if you define a valid trad ascent as placing all gear on lead (as lots of people do around the world),

"Several years ago Steve McClure and myself made the second and third ascents of the Pembroke route The Big Issue. This route was given huge publicity, and used to push an anti-bolt pro-environmental agenda.

But I can tell you that viewed close-up, after the bolts were hammered flat, and alternative fixed protection (jammed wires and a peg) were placed, it was a total mess. The route has never really been climbed in a traditional style to this day, and remains a de-facto sport route - just that now it’s even more of an eyesore. After our ascents, we removed as much of the jammed gear as we could - but is a jammed wire really “better” than a stainless bolt?"
Adrian Berry   https://www.thebmc.co.uk/big-issues-2-ethics

Pantontino

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#5017 Re: significant repeats
September 10, 2014, 11:02:36 am
2nd ascent of Ropes of Maui 8B in Llanberis Pass goes to Dom Bridgwood:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=740

EStephens

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#5018 Re: significant repeats
September 10, 2014, 11:09:59 am
Monster! Well deserved tick by the most psyched bloke around.

liam fyfe

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#5019 Re: significant repeats
September 10, 2014, 12:10:17 pm
Great effort.

Johnny Brown

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#5020 Re: significant repeats
September 10, 2014, 12:33:27 pm
2nd ascent of Ropes of Maui 8B in Llanberis Pass goes to Dom Bridgwood:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=740

Shit, Dom joins the big league!

Doylo

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#5021 Re: significant repeats
September 10, 2014, 12:35:22 pm
Effort Dom, enjoy the little Vimeo vids . Strong.

Nails

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#5022 Re: significant repeats
September 10, 2014, 07:40:10 pm
Little Q&A with Yuji about climbing in the UK:

"Q&A:

What was climbing The Big Issue like?

It was like steep 5.13c sport climbing, but you have to place trad gear. So climbing it was really physical, and you can’t spend too much time placing the gear because you can easily get pumped. You can only spend seconds placing the gear.


What do you like best about trad climbing in the UK?

I think the self-control. I know what to do when I look at a sport route, but I didn’t know exactly what to do in some of the dangerous parts of the trad routes there.


How did you feel after a few days testing yourself on UK trad?

I feel like I want to see more of the UK climbing culture! I’m happy that I could use my background in this kind of climbing during my time in the UK."
http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/q-a-yuji-hirayama-wants-more-uk-trad

ghisino

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#5023 Re: significant repeats
September 14, 2014, 11:57:31 am
I'm only going on a Google translate of that article, but as far as I can tell the facts seem pretty reasonable to me - I'm guessing you don't like Up Climbing ;)


the current version of the article is a bit different from the first one! :)
so props to them for rounding the corners.

shark

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#5024 Re: significant repeats
September 14, 2014, 07:53:46 pm
Effort Dom, enjoy the little Vimeo vids . Strong.


 

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